1989+ I-beams and offset bushing question

[Dan B.]

When reading through some old posts I think I just read that the 1989+ Ranger I-beams and 4 degree bushings can be swapped into the 1988-down trucks for a poor mans lowering kit. Is this right?? This would be a factory to factory swap with no other aftermarket parts needed?? What springs do I use??

My 1985 2wd 358W Ranger is getting torn down this week for paint and other parts so I may just do this swap along with some other work. I just happen to have a 1989 2wd ext cab (4.0L) parts truck setting in the driveway that I could swap everything over to my 1985 std cab. This would also give me the better front brakes too??

My back end is already flipped with S-10 springs and a Mopar 8.75" rear. This set up required no lowering of the front with the 358W installed. I'm going to block it down about 2.5" if I do the front beam swap.

This could get interesting...........

 

[JoshT]

Sorry but you read wrong. To use 89 beams you will have to use 89 spindles and your ride height will remain the same. The only way to lower in the front without major frame surgery is springs and drop beams. That said, given what you have under the hood I would still swap out the front beams, spindles, brakes, etc. for the better brakes.

If you want a drop in the front the cleanest way to get three inches is to spend the case on a set of DJM dream beams. Since you have the parts truck get the ones for 89-97 rangers and swap in the spindles, brakes and stuff from it. The price for the 83-88 and 89-97 beams are roughly the same IIRC and the later ones allow for much more future brake upgrades. I'd do this myself, but I picked up a set of the early model beams for cheap a while back just never got around to installing them before wrecking the truck.

BTW what did you have to do to use those S-10 springs and did they drop the truck any with the axle over set-up? Also where did you get those lower shock mounts from they look like the Explorer units but I can't tell? I was thinking about doing a similar setup using an Explorer axle and springs in their stock configuration, and swapping directly in. I was hoping that it would net me about a 3" drop & rear discs by just removing four bolts, while allowing me to run stock length shocks in the back.

 

[Dan B.]

Hhmmm. I did realize (but did not mention) that the 89+ beams and spindles alone would not lower the truck. My hope was that I would have access to a wider variety of drop springs along with the more adjustment 4 degree bushings to get up to maybe 3" w/o having to get aftermarket beams. I guess that is not the case. But since the parts truck is here I'm going to do the beams swap for the braking upgrade anyhow.

S-10 springs.....it was a cinch. My chassis builder cousin (and bowtie freak) thought of the idea when I did the swap almost 15yrs ago. After marking the factory axle center point on the frame, remove the Ranger springs and hangers. After that just locate the S-10 springs with the center bolt at the same front to back relation as the factory springs. From there you will need to drill holes to bolt the front spring hanger to the frame. Seen in this pic...the e-brake cable is blocking part of the front spring hanger.

In the pic below you can see where the rear shackles mounts had the be taken apart and welded through the frame...they are in primer. I had to cut them back out since the angle was initially wrong and reinstall.

This swap alone will not substantially lower the truck since it actually place the spring location lower under the frame. Flipping the axle on top did provid a slightly lower stance than factory but it ended up matching the front perfect with the heavier V8 in place. My main reason for the swap since the S-10 springs are located directly under the frame so I could run my 10" wide rear wheels and have room to go wider in the future w/o any spring to tire clearance issues.

Lower shock mounts. They are also S-10 but turned 90 degrees and the mounting bolt relocated.

I also kicked both shocks to the back by simply relocating the top mounts to match.

 

[JoshT]

Hhmmm. I did realize (but did not mention) that the 89+ beams and spindles alone would not lower the truck. My hope was that I would have access to a wider variety of drop springs along with the more adjustment 4 degree bushings to get up to maybe 3" w/o having to get aftermarket beams. I guess that is not the case. But since the parts truck is here I'm going to do the beams swap for the braking upgrade anyhow.

I am pretty sure that first and second gens use the same drop springs. The 4 degree bushings would allow you to drop more and still be able to align it. I'm not sure if they would allow you to go down to three inches though. I know I have heard of people doing 5"+ by combining the drop springs and beams. I do not sure what the limit is on aligning with springs, sorry wich I could help you more on that. I'm sure someone who knows more about dropping with springs will chime in before long.


That set up you have in the rear is about the same as an Explorer Axle swap if you moved the spring perches on the axle to locate them under the frame. It does give a good bit of extra room, but I think if I were to do it I would leave the springs in the stock location. Can still run a pretty wide tire and not have to worry about welding anything. If I were able to on my truck I would change your shock setup. I want the shocks relocated so both are in front of the axle, and would be putting a fuel cell under the bed behind the axle. I'm just not sure how the rear BII sway bar would have fit if I did it. BTW I believe that I have heard of someone running a 12" or 14" wide wheel on a setup similar to yours.

 

[slammedxonair]

These are the best Ibeam ranger coils available on the market https://www.illusivefabrications.co...d=216&osCsid=d4d5870e93469b0247f7bcebe898ee30 They are for a 2" drop however the motor may squat them down a little more, you should should be able to align them with the adjustable 4 degree eccentrics from NAPA. A 3" drop with coils would be pretty much maxing the crap out of the eccentrics.

 

[doorgunner]

yep......3" drop on the front end maxxed my 4* Napa adjustable bushings out...but the alignment shop was able to fine tune them after I installed em by using the string alignment method in the tech library...

(I put 5,000 miles on the new tires with no abnormal wear before I took it to the alignment shop....considering the camber was out 1&1/4" before I did the string thing!)

Good thing about the 4* adjustables is.....I can adjust em myself if i decide to raise the front end up an inch or so in the future.....

I need to check with Illusive about 3" lowering coils once I'm sure about the fender/tire clearance when making turns.....