1989 2.9L Ranger Build

[canthelpitimaguy]

So picked up this turbo last night on ebay for $130. From a Thunderbird Turbo Coupe, has some wear but description claims no shaft play and perfect function....so we'll see what i get in the box....

I will get the piping and fab up the exhaust next since that shouldn't cost as much and I have some time before I'm able to get everything together anyway.

 

[canthelpitimaguy]

So had the truck up on the lift and found I seem to be leaking from my rear main seal already....at only ~1100 miles...any quick fixes? Its a very very slow leak but still WTF....

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[canthelpitimaguy]

Got the turbo and it has been sitting in my truck for 3 days....I just haven't had the time to take a look at it yet.

What i have had time to look at is the rear main leak that seems to be dripping like crazy. I am thinking i have no choice but to drop the trans and replace the seal....but i figured its a chance for an upgrade.

I was looking into a t-5 trans because idk how much longer this M5OD-R1 is going to last. I know the t-5 will handle the abuse no problem, but i also know it has the wrong bellhousing. I read on this site HERE that a bellhousing from a 2.8l mustang bolts up to both sides.

I figure this is the perfect time to swap out my trans for something a bit more reliable, but im going to need some help. Firstly, is any of this information true? if so, where can i find this bellhousing other than a bone yard. Second, what are my best chances for finding a quality t-5 that has the appropriate input shaft, etc....finally, will i have to make a drive shaft change?

The last part is extremely important because i plan on swapping in an explorer 8.8 rear and from what i understand i have to make a shaft change for that. I would like to only have to purchase one new drive shaft so this is probably the most important component of this swap.

 

[DCinDC]

Don't change the trans. It'll just create problems. The shifter doesn't line up right, and there no longer shifters for a T5. And good luck finding that bellhousing.

The M5OD is PLENTY strong enough. They use it in the F-150s behind much stronger engines.

Rear main in a 2WD truck should be about a 3 hour job or less.

oh get an EV-127A PCV valve.
i had one in my 93 Ranger turbo making over 400 lbs of torque. It never gave me any trouble, and is still going srong with the new owner.

 

[canthelpitimaguy]

Strong or not the trans has got to go...its showing signs of wear and has over 300,000 miles under its belt. I know about the shifter length but thats an easy fix. Also moving the shifter position is a simple to do as well. Bellhousing is really the only issue since locating it is what ill have problems with.

Im just frustrated that I have to redo a brand new rear main seal...how often does this need replacement?

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[DCinDC]

I would just get another junkyard trans then. Seriously.

The rear main seal should last 100k at least. Did you pack grease in the channel to keep the spring intact? Did you damage it installing it?

 

[DCinDC]

oh and make damn sure it isn't the oil pressure sensor. They are much more likely to leak. and it will run out in the same place. So will a distributor seal. Both are easy to check and MUCH easier to fix.

 

[canthelpitimaguy]

This may be a stupid question but what's with the pcv valve? Do you think my stock replacement doesnt flow well enough and im building too much internal pressure and pushing our the rear main? Could this stop the leak without replacing the seal?

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[canthelpitimaguy]

Replaced the sender before install since that leaked like a sieve so that should be fine but ill double check. How do I get back there to check the distributor seal? Mirror?

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[canthelpitimaguy]

The pcv valve, rear main seal, oil pressure sender, and distributor seal are all brand new....dont think I damaged the seal installing it but anything is possible I guess....

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[DCinDC]

your pcv is probably fine, but once it is turbo'd you will need one of those. It's from the SVO and other 2.3 turbos and prevents pressure building in the crankcase under boost.


mirror would work.


you can use any pcv spec'd for the turbos, but some brands don't block pressure and leak the "wrong" way. the motorcraft one works properly.

 

[MikeR]

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[canthelpitimaguy]

Unfortunately, this project is on hold for the time being. I have other commitments with school and athletics that take propriety.

I will start again in December so I should have updates then. I will order parts over the next few months so that ill have everything ready to go.

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[RangerSVT]

In regards to the maf question you posted months back, have you considered swapping out to an early 90s 4.0 ignition/electrical system? You might have to extend some wiring, but you can get away from the firewall dizzy problem...

SVT

 

[canthelpitimaguy]

In regards to the maf question you posted months back, have you considered swapping out to an early 90s 4.0 ignition/electrical system? You might have to extend some wiring, but you can get away from the firewall dizzy problem...

SVT

Did you mean map? Cause I'm not longer converting to maf. I'm going to keep the factory speed density system and make the required adjustments.

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