1988 V8 swap

[simto]

I am placing a 302 in a 1988 extended cab 2WD. I have purchased a used V8 swap kit. I have headers, mounts,Springs shocks and steering compents for the V8 and 2'' of lift. On the oil pan which was not there since he sold the engine what type of oil pan do I need.

 

[doorgunner]

V8 engine swap forum has all kinds of facts/mods

 

[Psychopete]

On the oil pan which was not there since he sold the engine what type of oil pan do I need.

It really depends on the oil dipstick tube placement..... In timing cover? block? Not there?

 

[r1hatman]

I was told I needed a double hump pan with the big hump in the front. I got one off CL from a fox body mustang for $25.00. Check the tech page.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I was told I needed a double hump pan with the big hump in the front. I got one off CL from a fox body mustang for $25.00. Check the tech page.

If it is a engine with the dipstick in the timing cover the application you need is a '79 Mustang. If it has the dipstick in the rear lower part of the DS of the block either pan will work fine.

For a 4wd (attn r1hatman) if you can't do it yourself have someone move the rear drain plug over the other side of the pan. The plug is right in the way of the pivot bracket. If you don't watch the length of the plug or your first oil change might envolve a hacksaw (not one of my proudest moments)

 

[bobbywalter]

If it is a engine with the dipstick in the timing cover the application you need is a '79 Mustang. If it has the dipstick in the rear lower part of the DS of the block either pan will work fine.

For a 4wd (attn r1hatman) if you can't do it yourself have someone move the rear drain plug over the other side of the pan. The plug is right in the way of the pivot bracket. If you don't watch the length of the plug or your first oil change might envolve a hacksaw (not one of my proudest moments)

his 2wd wont have that problem in these pics..


if you have stock 4x4 brackets like this pictured, the best setup i found is to cut and invert that corner right as close as possible to the plug. this allows the enging to sit lower and further back and oil change is a no mess deal as a bonus. in the stock 4x4 application it is by far the preferred method i use with the sbf. the reg f150 mount on a box spacer allows for the drop.

 

[bobbywalter]

you can see the section missing in this pic. with a stock bracket it clears it and sits just like it does here, bout 1 in lower then pics in other posts.



the 2wd k member is smaller and a non issue comparatively

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

his 2wd wont have that problem in these pics..


if you have stock 4x4 brackets like this pictured, the best setup i found is to cut and invert that corner right as close as possible to the plug. this allows the enging to sit lower and further back and oil change is a no mess deal as a bonus. in the stock 4x4 application it is by far the preferred method i use with the sbf. the reg f150 mount on a box spacer allows for the drop.

Note the "attn r1hatman"

A shorter plug clears mine fine, but given the choice I would rather move it to the other side so it wouldn't be dumping the oil on the pivot everything I change it.

 

[bobbywalter]

Note the "attn r1hatman"

A shorter plug clears mine fine, but given the choice I would rather move it to the other side so it wouldn't be dumping the oil on the pivot everything I change it.

noted.

though the options of lowering the engine and moving it back plus no drain issue since modding the pan is in order anyway is the bonus. the engine usually ends up @ 1/2 in lower then the k member....in the pic its 1/2 in lower then the k member.

it really affects exaust, trans etc as well with wider options.

i have seen pans with it on the pass side as manufactured with slightly deeper rear sump. dont know if it is oem or aftermarket.