1988 Ford Ranger 2.9 4x4 Clutch Replacement Y pipe removal necessary?

[mrkilroy6]

I'm looking to replace the clutch and slave cylinder on my 1988 Ford Ranger 2.9 with 4x4. Do I need to remove the Y-Pipe to get it out? It looks like trying to get it out may be pretty difficult. In my research I've seen some people say that it needs to be removed and others that say that it doesn't.

 

[Denisefwd93]

We did it with the pipe in place and it's difficult to get the transmission over and past it. absolutely remove the transfer case and don't put it on until the transmission is back where it belongs. I'm sure it would be a lot easier on a 2 wheel drive vehicle.

 

[adsm08]

Technically no, you are supposed to be able to do it with the Y-pipe in place. On a 2wd it isn't that hard.

However, on a 4x4, if your cab mount bushings are even a little worn out (yours are a lot worn at best, unless they have been replaced recently) it becomes impossible, without jacking the cab up away from the frame.

 

[Denisefwd93]

Adsm I have to say your statement is one of those: "if only you had told me ahead of time" statements LOL jack up the cab, never thought of that one!

 

[adsm08]

Adsm I have to say your statement is one of those: "if only you had told me ahead of time" statements LOL jack up the cab, never thought of that one!

Took me a while to figure that one out too.

Last time I had to do a clutch in mine I go the idea because the cab had just been up for bushings about 2 years prior. It made it easier.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

The 94 ranger I'm driving had the clutch replaced by the tranny shop that I bought it from. The shop closed and good thing the cheap sob,s. I had to replace the clutch slave. They cut the y enough to get the tranny out and then used a flex pipe to fix it. They flex lasted 2.5 years before I replaced it again. This is viable but I wouldn't recommend it other than in an emergency....like lack of cash.

 

[mrkilroy6]

Ok thanks for the help guys. I guess I'll try my best to get it out of there.

 

[adsm08]

Plan for the job to take at least a few days (I think my dad's record was 6 weeks). On day 1, or even the day before you plan to start, figure out the tools you need to get those bolts out, then run the engine until it is fully to temp, and then try taking them out while everything is hot.

It isn't as good as a torch, but that method has served me, and others I know, well when dealing with exhaust hardware.

Or take it to an exhaust shop (if you can) and ask them to get the dirty buggers out and put them right back in.

 

[Shran]

On most of the 2.9's I've worked on, there is an additional heat shield on the Y pipe, right under the bellhousing, that makes it damn near impossible to get the trans out with the Y pipe hooked up. Furthermore, if you undo the Y pipe, it is also damn near impossible to get out, just gets stuck on all sorts of stuff. Then you've got the trans and Y pipe flopping around together. 4.0's come apart a lot easier, that heat shield costs you that 1/2" of clearance that is just essential.

Lifting the cab up is definitely a good option.

 

[Denisefwd93]

If I could weld as well as some of my friends, I know what I'd be doing, but that opens another can of worms when ya loose 1/8- 1/4" per cut.

 

[adsm08]

On most of the 2.9's I've worked on, there is an additional heat shield on the Y pipe, right under the bellhousing, that makes it damn near impossible to get the trans out with the Y pipe hooked up. Furthermore, if you undo the Y pipe, it is also damn near impossible to get out, just gets stuck on all sorts of stuff. Then you've got the trans and Y pipe flopping around together. 4.0's come apart a lot easier, that heat shield costs you that 1/2" of clearance that is just essential.

Lifting the cab up is definitely a good option.

There is one perfect angle to hold that Y-pipe at where not only is it easy to get out, it is so easy you have to get out of the way or get hit.

That's the only angle I can ever find for it.