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1988 Ford Ranger 2.0


SolidSnake84

Active Member
Joined
Sep 5, 2008
Messages
38
City
Stephens City, VA
Vehicle Year
2006
Transmission
Manual
Hey everybody, i've made a couple of posts in the last week or so about this "new to me" ranger. I picked this thing up literally dirt cheap. I've spent the last week or so getting the bugs out of it, and installing a new carburetor (someone removed the choke plate from the old one!!!!)

Rangers have been a lifelong obsession for me, starting with the very 1st one that I had when i first got my drivers license, a 1997 Ford Ranger long bed 2WD, with a 2.3 4 cylinder. After that I had a 1991 Ranger extended cab 4X4 that had a 2.9 V6, then a 2007 Ford Ranger 4X4 that I still have today.

This one is a 1988. It has the carbureted 2.0 4cylinder, with the Aisan carb or the "emissions carb". The motor has 85,000 + miles on it, and runs strong with no engine noise or any smoking. I spied it on Craigslist one night, and the price seemed too good to be true. I worried about title issues or some other major hidden problem. For just a few hundred dollars it seemed hard to believe.



This is the day I drove it home after buying it and giving it a good wash. Keep in mind this was a strange 70+ degree day a week before Christmas. The 1st thing I noticed was the "F350" emblems on the fenders. Good for a laugh right now but I think i might replace them eventually with the correct kind for this year. I will also point out that the tires on this beast are grossly oversized. I believe these are P245 75 R15s. These are actually getting replaced tomorrow with P215 /75/R15's. I have a set of wheels from another ranger, the alloy style, that will be going on here to replace the ugly and poorly spray painted steel wheels.



A hog dirty interior. You will notice the many cans of starting fluid. On freezing days, the previous owner had to use this starting fluid to spray into the carb, that he actually designed an intricate hose system that came from the carburetor and through the dash vents so he could spray it in without having to leave the cab. This was done because the choke plate was missing from the carburetor. At some point the electric choke stopped working, leaving it closed all the time. Inexplicably he removed the plate all together instead of just wiring the choke open. I have since identified the cause of this failure but I still replaced it with a new carburetor. This will be explained in subsequent posts. I had the shifter off to inspect the plug on top of the transmission that is famous for leaking. I found no evidence of any leaks.



The interior after a good cleaning. I still have not put the trim back 100% around the shifter. I want to replace that shifter knob with something from B&M, as I do not like this one, it looks and feels very cheap.



The body on this truck is really clean and straight. There are only minor scratches and a few dings here and there. I have no underneath shots, but the frame is solid with no rust. There is a small rust hole on the driver's side, about the size of a quarter, that i will hopefully repair this weekend. My 1st order of business was finding out what was causing the water to come in. Due to the excellent advice on this site, I found a blocked cowl drain. I removed 5 or 6 handfulls of pine needles and mud/dirt, and flushed the cowl vigorously with the garden hose. I am also going to seal up underneath the windshield bezel with some 3M stuff just to go the extra mile, although the last rain we had, i could not find any water in the cab.!!

Thats all my pictures for tonight. I hope i get to update this often, as I have lots of days off coming up and plan on working on the ranger every weekend until it's done.

I wanted to add that since installing the new carburetor, this truck starts up like fuel injection on cold mornings and runs, idles, and drives PERFECT. i recommend going the route of a new carb to anyone if they are battling something and have tried rebuilds, carb cleaner, etc.. The company i bought it from claim that they are all bench tested, and guarantee a "bolt on and go" application. This was exactly the case as other than setting the idle once warm, i had to do nothing.

My long term goal is to have a nice truck that I can drive wherever i want, haul various items, trash / firewood, etc... I want to make it nice but not to the point where i wouldn't use it like i do my other trucks. It's going to stay bone stock for the most part, with maybe just some simple modifications here and there..

That's all for now. Updates to come
 
So today took me a long time to do the radiator flush. I didn't use a harsh chemical because i was concerned about plugging up the heater core and / or water pump. Even with the dirty fluid the truck was running so good and never got hot one time.

After flushing the radiator with the hose about 5 times, the water finally ran out clear instead of dark brown and i was able to fill her back up with Prestone. I went on a short drive after this, about 5 miles to make sure everything was okay. She didn't overheat on me, but when i got back, the fluid is sort of a dingy green. Still, it tests at being safe at -10 degrees, i just want it clean for the sake of the motor. I may flush it again next weekend after driving it this week because it seems "really close" on being completley clean after the next time I dump it and re-fill.

Here are the wheels I mentioned in the earlier post. My dad did end up getting the tires mounted on them today. There are 4 of them, just two are in this picture as the other two are in the back of the truck!

Tomorrow i'll have some more pictures, as I am going to repair the small rust hole on the driver's side floor board. I am going to do it the "right way" by cutting out the bad spot and welding in new 18 gauge steel that I have some sheets of in the garage. Will post pics tomorrow!
 
Nice truck for the price you paid. It's definitely not in that bad a shape. Chech out the one I'm working on (link in signature). The rust damage doesn't sound all that bad either, juts a day or two of welding and grinding:icon_welder:
 


1st thing i did this morning was put my wheels on that got mounted yesterday. I already love this look much better than the rusty steelies and huge oversized tires that I removed...



Here is the rust hole. although the rest of the floor is solid, the metal along the edge here feels a little thin, so i cut back until i reached good thick metal again:




New piece of steel is just laid in here to test fitment. It will end up needing some trimming and countouring.



All welded in. The next order of business for me will be to apply some seam sealer here and also remove the bench seat and the carpet, as I want to clean up the floor pans further, and remove the old deteriorating soundproofing. I usually apply herculiner to my truck floor pans just for that extra soundproofing and protection...

I will be taking out the seat and carpet tomorrow to begin prepping for this next part...
 
Okay i got all of my interior out today and went ahead and treated the floor pans and applied the POR15. I was originally going to do some leftover herculiner that I had, but the POR15 doesn't age as well as the herculiner, so i wanted to go ahead and use what I had left of the POR15 that i used to paint a toolbox last year. here we go!


Everything is removed and I was happy to find no more rust other than what I fixed yesterday.. The cab floor is dirty, but everything is solid. If you've ever wondered what causes the "old car smell" i believe it is from the dirt and debris that invariably finds its way under the carpets, no matter how much you vaccum and clean. cleaning the carpet with carpet cleaner and a powerwasher will be for another day, possibly this weekend, although it is calling for snow where I live, so i won't be able to use the water hose outside. The carwash high pressure hose is still an option though....



I removed as much as I could of the old rubberized sound deadening stuff. It was old and brittle and scraped right off with the putty knife. A little remained, that I was able to sand down and scrape off with a wire wheel attached to my grinder. This is the 1st coat of the POR15.



And here's the second. I typically do the entire cab floor, but since this one really wasn't that bad, i elected to keep the back of the cab intact since all of the paint was shiny and good, and the sound deadener was in good shape too. The floor pans were the so called "trouble spot", and they were even solid, with just a little bit of surface rust that i'm sure was caused by the blocked up cowl drain.

I love the POR15, it is really good stuff and seems to hold up to the test of time. I have never really kept something long enough to re-visit it years down the road, although i did this to a jeep that I had for three years, and right before selling it, I had to put a clutch in it so when i removed the carpets to get it out of the way, the paint was still on strong and looked like the day i did it.

Thats all for today. I will post some pictures of the carpets before and after, weather permitting. I hope people reading this get as much enjoyment as I've had doing this truck so far. I'm trying to take my time and do things one step at a time. I think what is helping my patience so far is that this truck already runs and drives fine, so i am not under any kind of "crunch time" to get it running or anything like that!!
 
Looks good and it looks like you're fixing it up right!

I like the F350 emblems too, haha.
 
Looks good with your new wheels
 
No pictures to post here recently. We have been having severe weather (Snow, Ice, Freezing Rain), and a very cold couple of days. The ranger has stayed in the garage the past couple of nights because even thought the antifreeze tests to -10 below, several nights here it has been below zero, didn't want to chance it. The garage stays around 35 with no heat at all....

I'm getting her out tomorrow and will take some pictures, I got the interior and everything put back in and all four wheels are now on. Probably the next thing that I will do is remove the drop in plastic liner and apply some herculiner. I have done two pickup beds before, followed the instructions perfectly, and had outstanding success with. One truck was a 1987 F250, that hauled wood and construction debris all the time... A quick hose of the bed and it looked good as new again, and that was after being on for 2 years...

As soon as warmer weather comes i will be detailing the engine bay and cleaning it up a little. Supposed to be in the 60's here this weekend so maybe i can get a start on it!!!
 
Looks like you have a good start on a good project. Wish my body was that clean.
 
Once again we are at the point where work has slowed a little bit and it is too cold to clean it up / detail it or anything.

I did just yesterday install a Thrush welded muffler. It is basically the "poor man's" flowmaster muffler for those who may be unfamiliar with thrush.

But i can tell you, in my opinion it sounds just like a flowmaster. I had one of these on another truck that I owned, and most people that heard the truck assumed I had the flowmaster....

All in all i am close to a point where i really can do no more until warmer weather arrives. one of the things I want to do is paint my entire frame and chassis with POR15, the stuff that I swear by. I can get it inside my garage and up on jack stands, but the smell is really strong and when i have done this on other vehicles, it has been during the summer / springtime where i can open the doors for ventilation...

The truck is doing its job nicely right now as a weekend toy / trash hauler. about a week ago i even hauled a load of firewood with it. I was surprised that for just being a 2.0 it pulled the load so nicely. It didn't feel like it was struggling at all. These little motors must be very tourquey....

FUTURE WORK: install autometer manual gauge cluster (water temp, oil pressure, voltage), find someone to re-cover my bench seat or find an acceptable seat cover....

Hoping to get more pictures soon!
 
Updates - new pictures



This is a picture of my new hurst superboot installed and my custom shifter knob. I'm not really a fan of this one, but i can't seem to find anywhere the original 1988 stock shifter knob. I do like having the metal shifter exposed though. I had no choice but to remove the old crumbly and dry rotted one.



It was a nice day today - almost 65 degrees, so i installed a "new to me" head unit to replace the old early 1990's one. The old one didn't work very well. While i had the dash out, i also replaced some burned out bulbs - many were burned out to where i could not see my speedometer at night!!



I washed her off and did a quick turtle wax job because it was so warm today! i still have the snow tires on the back, but i love how the new wheels look!
 
lookin good!!! my first ranger was almost exactly the same truck...wish I still had it..... was in way better shape than the ranger I have now
 
Nice...reminds me of my first Ranger also...looks like it is in better shape than mine was...and before I knew what to look for as far as rust is concerned...

Interesting idea to put the quick start spray nozzle through to the cab...lol...

I now have a block heater and still no choke...works great as long as you can plug it in somewhere!
 

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