1988 BII Build

[88_Eddie]

i have a system now, i can acutally get them out pretty quick. grind a cross through the rivets, then hit them will this chisel punch that i have so they're flush with frame, then knock them through the hole with a punch. it's still a PITA though

 

[Stang5lgt]

I just drill them start with 1/8" bit work my way up to 5/8". As long as the bit is sharp that has been the fastest for me. Even faster then plasma cutting.

 

[88_Eddie]

new cross member is 90% done. ran out of welding wire, so i just quit for the day. it was hot as hell out, so it was all for the best.

still need to finish the left side

welded the nut to the inside of the brackets

drilled all the half inch bolt holes

then hooked up everything and tacked it in place

added some bracing to the back too

getting more wire after work tomorrow so i can finish it up and get it mounted for good.

 

[Kyle M.]

You should look at making the trans mount /crossbar removable from the arm mounts. If you ever have to pull the trans, the front axle will basically have to come out too.

 

[88_Eddie]

the thought crossed my mind, but this was much simpler. the tranny was replaced about 20k ago, it better not need to come out anytime soon.

 

[4.0B2]

I agree. I'm gonna make mine one piece also. Would just have to take the arms down to drop the trans.

 

[-Nathan-]

^what those guys said. Also, what are you setting your caster at?

 

[brinker88]

Looks a lot better than the little drawing you did lol. I would clearance the bottom of those joint mounts just a little if I were u

Keep up the good work!

 

[88_Eddie]

Looks a lot better than the little drawing you did lol. I would clearance the bottom of those joint mounts just a little if I were u

Keep up the good work!

i agree....i'm planning to 45 the bottom of the mounts, but they're not in any danger of hitting anywhere

^what those guys said. Also, what are you setting your caster at?

i have no idea yet. i wanted to get the arms mounted, then i can go from there. i can fine tune it with the johhny joints and the heim that's going on the drivers side upper bracket.

 

[Kyle M.]

the thought crossed my mind, but this was much simpler. the tranny was replaced about 20k ago, it better not need to come out anytime soon.

I agree. I'm gonna make mine one piece also. Would just have to take the arms down to drop the trans.

Maybe I just over think things, but imo if it ever has to come out, you are gonna be kicking yourself. An extra hour of time now will save lots of time in the future. All you have to do is make 4 shock tabs, sleeve the existing cross for a couple 1/2" bolts, weld the tabs on the link mounts and bolt it up, easy. Or since you are all welded up, cut the cross up, and do the same thing but on the 2x2.

Just my .02 cents.

 

[dangerranger83]

I made my mounts for my longarms seperate from my trans cossmember. Glad I did too as I had to pull my trans out twice in a months time due to bolts that hold the bellhousing backed out twice plus had to do a clutch replcement during one of those. And now going to do a v8 swap that I wasnt expecting to do when I did my SAS, I would have even more work to do if I had made it all as one assembly.

 

[88_Eddie]

i thought of a way i could go back and do it since i'm all welded up already. i have some shock tabs from ballistic laying around somewhere.

i'll look into it after work tomorrow and post some pics with my idea

 

[brinker88]

That's what I did when I designed my mounts. I used 1/4" thick shock tabs. Attatching the crossmember to the mount is a 3" mounting width x 2" OD DOM tubing with a bushing.

 

[88_Eddie]

i wish i had thought of it before today. this is my first SAS and first trans x member to build. i'm just winging here lol.

 

[brinker88]

I have about 6 or 7 hours of reading time in the Tech Library. That's where I got the idea. I just incorporated it into 2" OD tubing.

Oh and I LOVE how you're using a GM performance parts Jack.