• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

1987 bronco 2 won't start


eclipse2001gt

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 25, 2010
Messages
110
City
Atlantic,Iowa
Vehicle Year
1987,1996,1989
Transmission
Automatic
Gave some one a jump start and my dumb ass hooked the jumper cables to the starter selinoide and then the trucked died like it does some times and know it won't start back up. smoke came from other vehicle but it started right up.
Started does not make any noise to even try to move. Just get a clicking noise from the starter selinoide.

Have replaced battery and starter selinoide and still nothing.
 
I'd almost be willing to bet you fried the computer... manual or auto? I have a 2.9 manual trans ECU I'd part with...
 
How about the cable between the battery and the solenoid? To verify you could put a test light or voltmeter between the battery ground post and the solenoid's positive stud from the battery positive while trying to crank it over. Should be over 12v. If it is you should check for 12v while trying to crank over at the solenoid stud that connects to the starter. Hope you get it going.
 
its not the computer. Got it started and running. but won't hold a charge and sending power through the tail lights when the switch is turned on and with out the engine running. not sure what that could be. it has me stumped.
 
Well from my own experience, I have learned to never put jumper cables on the selenoid. Heres why: As your Alternator rotates, it makes an electromagnetic feild in turn producing an electrical charge. This said charge passes through your positive battery cable and your starter causing them to work. Before this charge is passed along it is cycled through the voltage regulator to step it down to a more manageable and stable state of electricity. So, with that said, When you applied those jumper cables, it created a shorter route for the electricity to ground meaning that it skipped the voltage regulator and went straight to your selenoid. So, the current coming from your alternator passed the regulator jumped to the other person's battery, and made a sudden ground hence shut off your truck, and most likely fried either your cam sensor or your coil, and possibly your CPU control module. it's happened to me. I've learned my lesson. Good Luck! -- Zach Dunn.
 
I bought a Bronco II that had a bad voltage regulator. The symptoms were:Over charging the battery at 17 volts and boiling it dry; drawing the battery dead overnight. The regulators purpose is to create a controlled ground path for the alternator's field windings thereby controlling the rate of charge. If it shorts to ground like mine it will draw current thru the windings all the time since the opposite end is connected to 12 volts. Voltage regulators don't cost much and are easy to replace.
 
will try that and hope it works or else i am going to buy a bronco not the bronco 2 i seen a full size one for 1200 bucks with less rust than this b2 has.
 
Well from my own experience, I have learned to never put jumper cables on the selenoid. Heres why: As your Alternator rotates, it makes an electromagnetic feild in turn producing an electrical charge. This said charge passes through your positive battery cable and your starter causing them to work. Before this charge is passed along it is cycled through the voltage regulator to step it down to a more manageable and stable state of electricity. So, with that said, When you applied those jumper cables, it created a shorter route for the electricity to ground meaning that it skipped the voltage regulator and went straight to your selenoid. So, the current coming from your alternator passed the regulator jumped to the other person's battery, and made a sudden ground hence shut off your truck, and most likely fried either your cam sensor or your coil, and possibly your CPU control module. it's happened to me. I've learned my lesson. Good Luck! -- Zach Dunn.

Well i would check those but for some reason the battery is connected directly to the starter seleniod and not to the voltage regulator.
 
I bought a Bronco II that had a bad voltage regulator. The symptoms were:Over charging the battery at 17 volts and boiling it dry; drawing the battery dead overnight. The regulators purpose is to create a controlled ground path for the alternator's field windings thereby controlling the rate of charge. If it shorts to ground like mine it will draw current thru the windings all the time since the opposite end is connected to 12 volts. Voltage regulators don't cost much and are easy to replace.

I unhooked the alternator and the power still goes through the tail lights with out having the alternator connected. And on top of that i can't even find the damn voltage regulator. All the books and sites i have found about the 87 b2 says it is on the passenger firewall and well the only thing there is relays and the starter solenoid.
 
These things can get frustrating believe me. I'm sorry if I lead you astray. My 84 b2 had an external regulator on the drivers side firewall but my 88 has an internal regulator. When you say not holding a charge do you mean that the alternator is not charging at 14+ volts or is the battery just going dead while sitting? One other thing, does your B2 have the lamp out monitor on the console?
 
These things can get frustrating believe me. I'm sorry if I lead you astray. My 84 b2 had an external regulator on the drivers side firewall but my 88 has an internal regulator. When you say not holding a charge do you mean that the alternator is not charging at 14+ volts or is the battery just going dead while sitting? One other thing, does your B2 have the lamp out monitor on the console?

No it don't have a lamp out monitor on the console.
I mean i can jump start it and it will run and if i turn it off it won't start back up like it is not charging.

So far i got it to start and run but tonight i almost got it to start back up when i shut it off but then it was like something said stop and then i heard the clicking of the starter solenoid. I let it run for about 20 mins before shutting it off to see if it would start back up.
 
If i fried the computer it would not even start and nothing would even come on at all. the computer controls everything. like the radio,fuel pump,and all the other electrical devices that are under the hood so i doubt that i fried the ecm.

It still has power when i jump start it to drive it around just does not start back up when shut off for some reason.
 
Have you tried disconnecting the pos terminal? That would tell you if the alt's working. Then if that will atleast eliminate that
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Ranger Adventure Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top