1986 Ford Ranger 2.0 Idle/Stalling Problem Help!

[RangerFabWorks]

yes just make sure to get alot of oil in it before it rusts. ive done it with good results. its not the best way, but it works. get marvel mystery oil in a spray can and oil the hell outta it.

 

[mongo]

bump didnt wanna lose this one

 

[mongo]

hey man any luck

 

[dangerranger83]

It takes time for somebody who has never done this. If he spends all of his time updating, then he will never get it done.

 

[ianthegreat]

Sorry for not updating sooner :O I've been in Baton Rouge at one of our customers' pipe mills.

I'm confused on how to take my timing belt off though. I'm going to go outside right now and try to figure it out.

 

[RangerFabWorks]

look in the tech library to learn how to line up the timing marks, then take the bottom crankshaft pulley of. take the timing cover off. then loosen the belt tensioner and take the belt off the head. i would change the belt while you have it torn down this far because its just cheap insurance.

i would def. pick up a hayes book. they can be fouund at most auto parts stores for like 25.00 or your local library should have em in the automotive section. make sure to take pics before you dissasemble it so you have a reference to go by.

 

[ianthegreat]

Can I just loosen the tensioner and remove it that way without messing up my timing? I'll go ahead and read the tech library while i'm at it.

*edit* didn't find anything in the library about timing

 

[RangerFabWorks]

Can I just loosen the tensioner and remove it that way without messing up my timing? I'll go ahead and read the tech library while i'm at it.

if you were very careful not to move the cam while the head was off, then yes, but its better to check the timing marks while your at it anyway. take whiteout and mark the cam sprocket to the head so you can get it back the way it was.

 

[ianthegreat]

Tomorrow I'll try to set the engine at TDC and remove the timing belt to get at the head. In the mean time, here are some pics.

Two questions:

1. If I leave the valve cover off, do I risk rusting the cam, springs, rockers, etc..? I plan on using the Marvel Mystery Oil Spray but don't know the time frame I have before rust sets in.

2. Do I need to remove the rotor when cranking the engine to TDC from the crankshaft?

 

[RangerFabWorks]

Tomorrow I'll try to set the engine at TDC and remove the timing belt to get at the head. In the mean time, here are some pics.




Two questions:

1. If I leave the valve cover off, do I risk rusting the cam, springs, rockers, etc..? I plan on using the Marvel Mystery Oil Spray but don't know the time frame I have before rust sets in.

after washing out the head. take paper towls and dry it asap, then spray it all down with the oil

2. Do I need to remove the rotor when cranking the engine to TDC from the crankshaft?

nope, save ya from retiming that later

.

 

[dangerranger83]

You got lucky not breaking a bolt. Paint looks great might give an extra few horses. As for the valves, lub. them and cover them with a towel, rag, etc... As for question two, do you mean the rotor for the distributor? If you need to find TDC then take out spark plug number 1, put your thumb over it until air wants to push your thumb away until you have reached the top meaning its that TDC. Its hard for me to explain might be unclear.

Your timing belt looks brand new but looks can be deceving.

 

[ianthegreat]

Update: I got the timing belt off (removed the whole tensioner) and also removed the head bolts.

The head bolts on the driver side of the engine were fairly easy coming out; however, 3 bolts on the passenger side were a major PITA. It started raining right as a took the last bolt out so I haven't had a chance to remove the head yet. Below are pictures.

I put the timing cover back on before I removed the tensioner and matched my markings. Does this mean I set the engine to TDC? It was kind of cool when I was turning the crankshaft as I could here air pressure coming out somewhere.

Here are the 3 bolts that were difficult. I think this is a tell tale sign of a blown head gasket. It's the same rust color as my radiator water which leads me to believe there was a leak and it also rusted these bolts. I could be wrong, your opinions? The other 5 bolts were perfectly clean and well oiled.

Now... once I reinstall the head. Should I put thread tape on these bolts?

I'm anxious for the rain to stop so I can go remove the head!! I want to see what the gasket looks like.

 

[ianthegreat]

Update: Got the head removed and all I broke was my back. Looks are very confusing in regards to how heavy that thing is. The gasket doesn't look like it was leaking or torn anywhere hmmm.

Gasket still on, looks like rust residue on 4th cylinder by those two round deals.

Block, rust residue around the 4th cylinder. Not sure if if that happened when I slide the head off. Hopefully no crack in the block.

 

[dangerranger83]

Buy the "round deals" do you mean the valves on picture 2? I do see rust there, but I dont know if you can get it checked for cracks with the cam still on. I would try to get it checked for cracks while your at this step though. I just looked at picture number 4 with the pistons and do see rust on top of number 4 piston. It MIGHT have a crack but don't take my word for it, see if you can get it checked. Other then that the cylinder walls look great, and the water ports look nasty.

Just be very carefull not to drop the head when putting it back on or you may chip it or crack it without even knowing it.

 

[RangerFabWorks]

your overheating issue is def the cooling system that has been neglected. headgasket looks ok. head looks good.if it had a crack, you would see rusty coolant in the valve area. so that looks ok. flush the block out real well. clean all the water passages, new head gasket, new timimg belt. and bolt it all back together. it should run good now.