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1986 bronco II's


jdm_farmboy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2007
Messages
122
City
Tipp City, OH
Vehicle Year
1986
Transmission
Manual
Ok so here's the deal. Last summer I bought and paid for to 1986 Bronco II's. I sold the one is worse condition to my sister so she could have her boy toy at the time fix it up for her. It is now a year later, and she has decided to let me scavenge parts off of it before she scraps it. :yahoo:
First off, here's the scoop on both B2's
My DD is a 1986 4x4 with the TK5 tranny, 1350M Transfer Case, and 3.45 axle ratios. It has manual hubs, manual windows, and manual locks
The B2 destined for the scrapper is an 86 XLT 4x4 with a mitsubishi tranny, 1350E, and 3.73's with a limited slip rear. Power windows, power locks, auto hubs. It has a tachometer instrument cluster that my truck does not have, as well as the rear hatch with the opening glass. It would need a radiator, brake booster, Fuel pump, and headlights to be road worthy if someone wants to take it off her hands for a price better than scrap.

So, if this thing is indeed destined for the scrapper, I plan to pull the motor to keep as a spare in case mine dies before my future upgrades. I want to install the opening-window hatch and tachometer into my daily driver as well. Does anybody know of any issue I would have with doing this?
 
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i'd just get an aftermarket tach, i think it will look cleaner in the end. as for the rear hatch, pull out the whole hatch and replace it with the lift gate one. i'm actually trying to do the same thing for my BII right now, it's a long story, but the BII i'm tryin to get is also an 86 and was my sisters at one time.

btw, i'd trade axles as well, you can get 3.73's F/R and a limited slip out back
 
will your harness handle the guage cluster and that rear axle sounds like a keeper or axles as a set
 
I thought about swapping the axles, but one, I don't know how time consuming that front axle will be, two, I have no clue what condition the brakes, bearings and such are on the scrapper, and three, I drive this baby from TN to OH on a regular basis, so I don't mind the gas mileage those 3.45's are giving me. Now I know as soon as I step the tires up above stock I will despise this choice, but that won't be for a while still.

I want to go with the factory tach because of its clean appearance. I've never liked the ginormous tachometers mounted on the dash or wherever, so I was looking to see what it would take to do so. It'll be at least a week before I can really tear into the scrapper to see because I've got some maintenance to do on the DD and I just got home from college for the summer.
 
So go get a Sunpro super tach II. That's what I have. I used to wear watches bigger than that tach.
 
I think you wouldn't have a problem swapping instrument clusters. It's a pain getting your hand up in behind to loosen the speedo cable thingy, press on the white plastic collar-one side has a tab to press and it pulls free of the cluster. Remove the two wiring connectors and swap. Check your bulbs at the same time. It might be easier loosening the cluster first , then disconnecting from the front-easier to see what your doing [maybe].
Good luck,
Richard
 
I like to pop the speedo cable off, undo the screws, and then pull it forward and pull the plugs.
 
Hey, quick question. On my DD, I have started needing to hold the ignition cylinder forward to keep the truck running, any fix for this?
 
holy $hit your from tipp city!! im from englewood, glad to see someone else is on here.. how much u wanting 4 it.
 
Hey, quick question. On my DD, I have started needing to hold the ignition cylinder forward to keep the truck running, any fix for this?
I'm kinda guessing, but there is a rod that runs from ignition lock cylinder to a switch located down the steering column. Iirc, you can adjust the position of this switch. This may cure your problem.
 
I'm kinda guessing, but there is a rod that runs from ignition lock cylinder to a switch located down the steering column. Iirc, you can adjust the position of this switch. This may cure your problem.

Thanks for the guess. It turns out my ignitions switch itself was coming apart at the seams. I zip tied it together and its all better now.

Hondafreak I'll see if I can get pics up sometime this week for you
 
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