1986 2.9 won't start after overhaul

[Steiger Man]

We're rebuilding my sons truck after he rolled it this winter.Build thread here http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=125299

I overhauled the engine and can't get it to start. It cranks like a mofo,just won't light.

Here's what I've done so far to figure it out.

1. Verified correct plug wire order and rotation and spark delivery.
2. Timed to 12 before tdc w/spout unplugged.
3. Verified there is 40psi in the fuel rail.
4. Swapped injectors once.
5. I fired the injectors out of the manifold just to see if they were spraying fuel and they are.


How do I tell if the injectors are plugged in, in the right order? there are no tags or marks on the harness and I failed to mark it.

Any experience on this in here? Thanks.

 

[AgPete139]

Hopefully someone can chime in with the 2.9L wiring diagram for the fuel injectors.

It sounds like the starter has enough juice, the fuel is going (the fuel injectors should really just line up with the block & the harness), and the spark is happening.

I would take a closer look at the timing with the spark. I read that you verified 12* TDC, but it seems like something isn't adding up right. It's hard to know for sure over the Internet.

 

[Psychopete]

Check MAF conversion in the tech library for injector wiring and colors. They fire 3 at a time, 2 wires control all 6 injectors.

If you have fuel and spark, there's not much that can be wrong if you have compression.

Either -

Your distributor is 180 out

You have bad gas

Or your valves aren't opening (but I am not sure how that can be possible w/ dist turning OK)

 

[Rosberg1]

Explorin94's suggestion on the build thread seems like a likely culprit. (inertia switch)

 

[Psychopete]

If inertia switch was bad he would have 0PSI on fuel pressure test. Pumps are getting power if he has 40PSI at the rail - which is in spec.

 

[Steiger Man]

Inertia switch is bypassed. Fuel pump runs fine...40psi. The more I think of it, I'm not sure I should get wrapped around the injector wiring too much since there will be enough fuel avail when the valve opens since they are firing. I'm gonna swap distributors tonight to see if that does the trick.

 

[Psychopete]

I'm not sure I should get wrapped around the injector wiring too much since there will be enough fuel avail when the valve opens since they are firing. I'm gonna swap distributors tonight to see if that does the trick.

Yup. Should at least be getting some catches. Really think your gas is bad or dist is off. Don't go off how it is now, set engine to TDC on the compression stroke when you drop in the dist, start over. Can also spray some starting fluid in the intake and see if it runs - if it runs, then the dist is actually close to where it needs to be.

 

[shane96ranger]

I think it's the timing as well. I would think even bad gas would at least try and catch a little.

 

[Steiger Man]

Swapped the distributor and plugs, just because I had some sitting on the shelf. AAAANND! nothing. This is killing me. I'm a Professional Equipment Technician and this little simple truck is kicking my butt like this.


Just thinking out loud here...I wonder if the crankshaft in the 86's is different than the 87's. I used the crankshaft out of the 87 donor engine, but I used the camshaft for an 86. I wouldn't thing there would be a difference.

 

[madfox22]

Engine is cranking, fuel pressure OK, fuel injectors are receiving a signal and spraying, spark plugs sparking. Only two things left, both involve timing! Make sure injectors are wired correctly and spraying in the correct sequence.
Make sure dist is timed properly. NO 1 cylinder on compression stroke TDC, drop dist into hole so that rotor aligns with connection on cap marked No.1, and connect wires from that point in the proper rotation.
Dist does not have to be off a full 180 degrees off, just one hole off on the dist cap will not allow it to start.
Compression, fuel at the correct time, and spark at the right time = engine runs
All this is. of course, is assuming you didn't install the cam at 180 degrees off with the crankshaft !
Now thats a scary thought!

 

[Steiger Man]

All this is. of course, is assuming you didn't install the cam at 180 degrees off with the crankshaft !
Now thats a scary thought!

I think this is exactly what happened. Talking with another Technician here at the shop, he thinks the cam timing mark goes to 12 o'clock and the crank to 6o'clock or something like that.

I put the cam mark to 6 o'clock and the crank mark to 12 o'clock.

 

[Psychopete]

I put the cam mark to 6 o'clock and the crank mark to 12 o'clock.

Pointing the cam at 12 and crank at 6 would sure make it hard to get right. The marks point towards each other - cam gear is 6 and crank is 12. Compression test may give some insight.

 

[madfox22]

Yep, another problem eliminated. Cam mark at 6 o'clock and crank mark at 12 o'clock is correct

 

[madfox22]

I just installed a rebuillt 3.0 motor in my Ranger. Same problem you got.
I found that when i installed the distrubitor in the hole, the shaft rotated more than I had anticipated. It was the next morning before I put the cap on and installed the wires, so I forgot to double check the position of the rotor compared to the no.1 connection on the cap. I was one hole off. Pulled dist. back up rotated it backwards and lined up the rotor with the right connection, and off she went.

 

[Steiger Man]

Double checked with the book. I did in fact set the relation between the crank and cam in the proper manner.