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1985 BII A4LD Trans Leak


You shouldn't have a pilot bushing. Your torque converter slides on to the input shaft of your transmission, and bolts directly to your flex plate (flex plate is like the flywheel in a manual trans vehicle)

Yes, I understand all of that. I know a manual trans has a pilot bearing, but if you do some research on the A4LD especially with the Explorers, you see where they mention a pilot bushing in the back of the crank not being replaced and messing with the trans pump, so the seal begins to leak again.

Here is a thread for reference:

https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/a4ld-front-seal-info.55566/


While you are servising the transmission be sure to remove the flexplate and inspect the pilot bushing in the back of the crankshaft. They are often found to be broken. If the unit is re-installed with this bushing damaged it will cause front pump damage. It's cheap, replace it!

I understand the bushing in the bell housing, but I am not touching that since this trans only has 60,000 miles on it. My question is specific to the bushing in the back of the crank, if there is one.

Rock Auto showed one, so I ordered it, if it doesn't work, I'll simply return it.
 
I haven't had a chance to pull the flex plate yet. I'll try to get under there and do that in the next couple of days and snap a few pictures.
 
I don't know why they're calling it a pilot bushing. I guess technically it is but the term I've always used is flex plate spacer. Totally different from a manual transmission pilot bushing. Sonnax makes a nice spacer... It's a big piece that goes between the crank and flex plate.

If I break off the exhaust bolts they have to be drilled out and threads retapped. But you're past that point now.
 
I don't know why they're calling it a pilot bushing. I guess technically it is but the term I've always used is flex plate spacer. Totally different from a manual transmission pilot bushing. Sonnax makes a nice spacer... It's a big piece that goes between the crank and flex plate.

If I break off the exhaust bolts they have to be drilled out and threads retapped. But you're past that point now.

That makes more sense! I did not order that lol, guess I'll return what I ordered to Rock Auto.

This page seems to be pretty informative.

https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resources/204-a4ld-4r44e-ford-4-0l-crank-spacer-puzzle

I doubt mine is cracked, but I'll look it over.
 
I just checked the pilot on my stand-by a4ld and it measured .466. I wonder why this is longer than the up dated one in the sonnax article. Anyway, this is all good information.
 
I replace them whether they're cracked or not unless it's in a vehicle that I simply don't care about. The factory spacer is made out of pot metal and IMO is just junk - the Sonnax one is under $20 and is machined billet steel...cheap insurance. Considering how difficult it is to remove the trans in these, I'd not hesitate to replace it if you're planning on keeping the truck.
 
I replace them whether they're cracked or not unless it's in a vehicle that I simply don't care about. The factory spacer is made out of pot metal and IMO is just junk - the Sonnax one is under $20 and is machined billet steel...cheap insurance. Considering how difficult it is to remove the trans in these, I'd not hesitate to replace it if you're planning on keeping the truck.

Your logic makes sense. This rig is staying with me for a while.

I'll try and remove my flex plate tonight. If nothing else I'll confirm the bolt count and order it when I get home.

Thanks for the advice as usual!
 
No prob! It'll be the 6 bolt version... 8 bolt flywheels/flex plates didn't exist until sometime in the mid-late 90's.
 
No prob! It'll be the 6 bolt version... 8 bolt flywheels/flex plates didn't exist until sometime in the mid-late 90's.

My research showed the same on the 6 bolts (which I had assumed it was anyways).

I ordered it online just now -- I'm sure it will be $30 well spent!
 

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From where did you get the rear crank seal? I was looking at Rock Auto and I saw what looked like several different ones. I wasn't sure which one to get.
 
From where did you get the rear crank seal? I was looking at Rock Auto and I saw what looked like several different ones. I wasn't sure which one to get.

I ordered it from Rock Auto. See the screen shot below:
 

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What's going on with your project today?


I pulled the old seal out and drove the new one in. Old seal lip was hardened I'm sure that's why it has leaked.

I'm in the process of putting it all back together now. I have the trans up in the vehicle, but it is not lined up completely yet. I got the torque converter bolts lined up, but can't get it slide on the alignment dowels of the engine block.

Got a little frustrated wrestling it, so I walked away from it today. I'll circle back in a day or so.

It won't beat me down for long!
 
Just some random thoughts for tonight. I was going to try and reassemble with out the new billet spacer replacing the rear main seal, but I believe I'm half assing this now.

Time for a reset. Im going to seperate the trans and t case because it is a bear to manage together. It wants to roll because of the weight.

I'm going to drop it back down and do this right and not be impatient.

I just got ahead of myself this weekend.

I hope to have it on the road after the week of labor day.
 

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