1985 BII A4LD Trans Leak

[Shran]

Yes you can pry the linkage apart. Small pry bar or a large flat screwdriver works best. Vice grips and grease to get them back together. I dont' believe you need to remove the shifter assembly itself from the floor. T-case shifter (if you have one) is easy - just undo the large bolt that goes through the transmission tailhousing and one other small one that holds the adjustment bracket on. Ignore that part if you've got electric shift 4x4.

 

[ford4wd08]

Yes you can pry the linkage apart. Small pry bar or a large flat screwdriver works best. Vice grips and grease to get them back together. I dont' believe you need to remove the shifter assembly itself from the floor. T-case shifter (if you have one) is easy - just undo the large bolt that goes through the transmission tailhousing and one other small one that holds the adjustment bracket on. Ignore that part if you've got electric shift 4x4.

Thanks for the info.

Got the shifter off this morning. Working my way to getting it out soon.

 

[ford4wd08]

Still working on this. I have to remove the cat and pipe to the muffler.

The bolts are rusted pretty bad on the connection to the y pipe and cat. I think I'm going to try and cut them off with my Dewalt oscillating tool.

I think it can cut through two bolts with a new blade.

 

[Bird76Mojo]

If the hex head on them is still good enough for a socket or wrench or grab, then I'd definitely try squirting them down with PB Blaster a few times and letting it soak, before I go cutting on them. Maybe even heat them with a propane torch before trying removal.

 

[croatankid]

Are you talking about the fasteners holding the Y pipe to the manifold pipe? If so, I've heard that high heat is the way to go. If you cut them, you'll still have to drill the piece out of the flange. I'm watching this because I will soon be doing this very thing.

 

[ford4wd08]

I was able to get the cat and exhaust loose! I had to use a propane torch and some PB blaster with an impact. I actually ended up breaking the bolts, but they sheared where the flange could come loose. I'm trying to break the loose connections of the pipe so I can remove it.

But that is more progress! No onto the trans cooler lines and the vacuum lines, then the t case shifter, and then onto the bell housing bolts.

I'm getting closer.

 

[Shran]

I can usually separate the cat and Y pipe with careful use of an impact and heat but the bolts holding the Y pipe onto the manifolds never come out easily. Can't tell you how many of those stupid things I've broken off. If you've got a good impact, you can hit them repeatedly on forward and reverse for a few seconds each direction and sometimes they'll come out.

 

[ford4wd08]

I'm debating whether I'm going to remove the y pipe or not. It looks like I have enough room to work around it.....

 

[croatankid]

If one if forced to use a hot wrench, is there any use in using PB Blaster?

 

[ford4wd08]

If one if forced to use a hot wrench, is there any use in using PB Blaster?

I've always figured it can't hurt anything.......

 

[croatankid]

sharn, if you do break the fasteners holding the y pipe to the manifold, what do you do then? Must you drill them out, use an extractor? I about to face this and hope you can share some insight.

 

[ford4wd08]

Well I managed to get it out today! Fought me a little, but it is out.

It looks like my seal is leaking in the the trans as suspected.

Now to order the replacements. I'll probably blow out my vent hoses as well. Just want to be sure they are not clogged and building pressure....

I'll also replace my rear main seal while I'm in here.

I ended up not having to loosen the y pipe up to the manifolds. Once you get the massive cat out of the way it gives you a lot of room to work with.

I also pulled the trans and transfer case at the same time.

 

[ford4wd08]

Any tips on pulling this seal? I do not want to loosen the bell housing from the trans if at all possible.

I'm thinking sheet metal screws and prying it out. Sounds like a plan?

 

[ford4wd08]

After reading online it appears some people replace the pilot bushing in the back of the crank if their seal goes out.

Anyone have any experience with this? I ordered one on rock auto along with the rear main seal, trans seals, and a new pan and filter.

I want to try and keep from having to go back in here if we can help.

 

[Bird76Mojo]

You shouldn't have a pilot bushing. Your torque converter slides on to the input shaft of your transmission, and bolts directly to your flex plate (flex plate is like the flywheel in a manual trans vehicle)