1978 Pontiac Trans Am.

[88ranger2.95sp]

I've had it for a while.

Not mine, but similar:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y20xKlZxqUk&feature=related

OR...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CSUBdsIcsXg

Except I'm not losing. Lol.

It needs floors. It needs paint. It needs alooot of bodywork. It almost seems not worth it. It's heeeavy... BUT,

1. It was $500.
2. It's a running, driving, pretty quick car already.
3. It's a timeless American Classic! (Smokey and the Bandit anyone?)
4. There's not many around anymore!

Any Pontiac Guys here (or any guys) who have ideas?

Obviously, strip interior, fix floors (can I just use thinner sheet metal, like 18 guage, or must I sacrifice $300 for stamped, fancy BS'y floors that noone will see), engine tuning, shit like that. Any lighter secrets to make me go faster/

Any input is appreciated.

Rob

 

[almostclueless]

It almost seems not worth it.

That word that starts with "A" doesn't belong there.

It's heeeavy...

Um, yeah.....4000lbs

A land barge that needs paint and metalwork. I wouldn't touch it.

 

[Dangeranger3]

East bound and down, rock that t-a bud. T tops? Just make sure you have a kick ass moustache, action haircut (mullet, aka kentucky waterfall), and always keep your ears on

 

[mhughes165]

i think u should give it to me

 

[BlackBII]

I have always kinda liked 'em, they're cool with some flowmasters and T-Tops

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I wish I had one, they are a very nice looking car. I would fix the rust as I could afford to, if the drivetrain gave me any issues I would swap to a Chevy drivetrain, that would probably be your biggest help in getting it faster too... ditching the smogged down 400.

For what you have in it and if it is in decent shape I would diffinatly fix it up, it will be hard to find a cheaper T/A, and if you go a Chevy drivetrain you will have a hard time finding anything cheaper/easier to hop up.

Have any pictures of your car?

 

[88ranger2.95sp]

I know it's a boat anchor, but it's cool to me. It was the first car I ever did a standstill burnout in. It's got personal attachment.

No, not a T-tops. I wish it was though.

400's not too smogged down. It's got a Q-jet, and *very* restrictive exhaust manifolds with true duals and cherrybombs. First step after floors are primer, remove unnecessary bullshit, 90/10 shocks, and OPEN HEADERS!

No pictures, but strikingly similar to the youtube version. Except with 14" centerlines up front, and 15x8 chrome wheels off of a Blazer with 29x9.50 ET DRAG's. They still spin off of the launch. Rather it be the tires than the U-joints though..

Except mine's a very reddddish pink.. from lots of Texas sun!!

Will post pictures when I can figure out how to work the new camera.

Rob

 

[hihoslvr]

East bound and down, rock that t-a bud. T tops? Just make sure you have a kick ass moustache, action haircut (mullet, aka kentucky waterfall), and always keep your ears on

Ya know I'm down with the "business up front, party in the back" haircut, but neither the Bandit nor the Snowman were rockin' one, now the 'ol lady (aka seat cover), mighta been...

 

[JohnnyO]

Goodmark and some other places have sheetmetal. If you can do the work yourself it'd be worth it.

 

[88ranger2.95sp]

"business up front, party in the back"

I may grow one just for the track this summer.

Thanks for the floorpan suggestion. I'm gonna get right to it. I'm going to look at the car today (it's at one of my father's apartments in the ghetto) so I think that I'm gonna like pull a seat out today and pull the carpet on that side and see what I have to work with. The firewall's not rotted to shit, just the floorpans, and my dad said the tunnel. I think it's bullshit. Second thought, maybe I'll just bring a jack and stands...

If it's just floorpan rottage, I don't see why I can't use sheet metal pieces (my father is a sheet metal worker) and I can get cheap(er) parts from work. There's three ways I see of doing it:

1. Weld in brand new fancy floor pans, which noone will ever see. My father will be satisfied because it is the "right way".

2. Gut what's shitty, and build up with sheet metal accordingly, with undercoating/fiberglass used along the way. This is the preferred method on my part 'cause I actually WANT to race this summer.

3. Cut out what's bad, and weld giant panels over everything, literally sandwiching the shitty stuff inbetween. Probably not a good idea.

Suggestions?

Rob

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I would do #1, but if it was mine it would be more of a cruiser than a race car. I would rather spend a little more time and do it right the first time than rush it and have to redo it again later.

Go ahead and get #3 out of your head now, that is just a bad idea.

 

[88ranger2.95sp]

I would do #1.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/75-7...023QQitemZ360050106931QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

I plan on it now

Rob

 

[CopyKat]

Look up Cheapthrills. He's big into the T/A's

 

[Danger06Ranger]

Just my $.02, but I'd fix the pans right, since they are a major structural component of the body, fix up what ever other body problems it has, and be glad it doesent have T-Tops if you want to run it hard, especially the Fisher tops they had in 78-81. Now, with the Pontiac 400, you can get a 467ci stroker kit for it, aluminum heads and intake, and you have a stronger block than a SBC. I mean, if you have the W72 400 in it, stock you have 220hp@4000rpm and 320lb/ft@2800rpm. The L78 400 only had 180hp. BUT, if you have the L80 Olds 403, have fun making power and and keeping it together. The 403 has "windowed" main webs and siamesed cylinders, and they tend to blow head gaskets when you raise the compression. Oh, and swap the 10 Bolt out for a 12 bolt Posi.

 

[Jim Oaks]

Take some pictures so we can see what this thing looks like.

If you tried to get it as close to factory as you can, it would be worth something to someone wanting a great older classic muscle car (I note, not TRUELY muscular in stock form).