06' Ranger w/ 2.3 Duratec Temperature Gauge Cluster issue.

[Maxx]

Good evening, everyone, new to the group. Thank you for the welcome of course. I have an 06 Ranger XL single cab, 2wd Texas truck with around 230K miles. It is a 5spd manual as well. I purchased it about a year ago and have spruced up the truck. Suede headliner, new valve cover and EGR etc. When I replaced the EGR and the temperature sensor. I turned the truck on and after about 5-10 seconds of it running, the temp gauge climbs and then just creeps to the Hot side, Hits hot and the Hot F red light pops on the dash. This is an early model 06 truck so it does not have the cluster test. It seems though the temp gauge is set to 100F for normal operating temp. I went back and checked all the wires and wiring loom, no signs of any tears or rips in the wiring. It is all plugged correctly. When I use an OBD scan tool, it reads the ECT F temp is 192-194. On a hot Texas day with AC full blast, it goes to 198F and never a hair past it. The truck blows heat so not a bad thermostat. I replaced the ECT (which was weird having to get a specialty tool socket to replace it) and both ECT sensor and Temperature Sender have been replaced with OEM Motor craft parts from ford. On a side note, the dash cluster light inside lighting the temp and fuel gauges is burned out. Only the outer gauges are lit up, could a burned build cause resistance build up or make the board sensitive to temp if the bulb burns out and the board is all assembled? Just trying to address this so it can be fixed properly. I know the engine itself does not overheat, but the gauge reading being off is a huge bother. Also, not sure if it alters the running capabilities of the truck?

Thank you everyone!

 

[pjtoledo]

can't comment on the temp issues, except for what is the cylinder head temp?
that's the one between the spark plugs.

on a side note, I recommend changing the PCV and oil separator.

EDIT
after looking at a 2005 factory manual,
at the ECT sensor pin 2, BK/WH should be ground. pin 1 RD/WH is an undetermined voltage from the instrument cluster.
the PCM uses cylinder head temps to manage the engine. the ECT only goes to the instrument cluster.

 

[Maxx]

The cylinder head temp from the OBD2 scan tool says 192-194F with AC on. Itll stay 189-190F without the AC. Again here in TX. So runs cool and does not burn any coolant either. I have already replaced the PCV on the side of the engine block. The 2.3 Duratec has a oil separator from factory?
Note, I did replace the ECT (between the plugs) with Motorcraft. The wires do have crimp connects as it seems previous owners possibly broke the connector and or replaced it. I will replace the connectors at the wiring and start there. Now that you mentioned the sensor pin, I will check it.

What does the temperature sensor in the rear on the EGR dictate?

I did also remove the dash cluster earlier tonight. Will replace the burned-out bulbs with factory spec bulbs.

EDIT : I double checked and PCV/Air/Water separator is one piece which is indeed the one I replaced. Motorcraft OEM as well.

 

[pjtoledo]

the sensor between the plugs is the cylinder head temp sensor. it reports to the PCM, not the instrument panel.
the oil separator is the black plastic gizmo the PCV is attached to.
the temp sensor at the rear of the head is the ECT, it reports to only the instrument panel,,,, on a 2.3
it's mounted in the coolant outlet tube, close to but not part of the EGR.
the pins I referenced are at the rear of the head.

 

[pjtoledo]

FYI, my wiring book has the EGR & ECT labeled wrong.

 

[Maxx]

Once again thank you for the swift responses. Been away from home this weekend. I did remove the dash instrument cluster, I observed all the bulbs to be functioning properly and not burned out. Thus I am wondering if there is something wrong with the cluster itself then.

Thank you for clarifying, cylinder head temp sensor is PCM. This was replaced with motorcraft.
Oil separtor PCV got replaced with motorcraft so that is all good.
Temp sensor at the rear of the head was also replaced with a brand new motorcraft sensor.

Thus the issue lies either within the wiring or the cluster itself.

Based on other forums, If the wire for the temp sensor was shorted. Upon start up, It would read either full cold or peg full hot.

As mentioned, It is as if the operating temperature is set to about 100F. Thus obviously the normal operating temp would cause the temp gauge in the cluster to peg right to hot once it got past around 100F for the actual engine temp.

I do greatly appreciate the input and even the shared pictures. Never thought I would come across as actual pic of the backside on the 2.3 Duratec.

For some reason there is very little information on these slightly newer model rangers, especially with the 2.3 Duratec. Whole heap of stuff with the 3.0 and 4.0 no doubt.

Do you have any suggestions on how to proceed with testing? Should I try to test the instrument cluster itself somehow? Via resistance on a multimeter or check continuity via the temp sensor connector pin to the instrument cluster wiring?

Once again, I greatly and sincerely appreciate you!

 

[pjtoledo]

from a 2005 Ford Diagnostic manual

 

[Maxx]

pjtoledo
I do sincerely and greatly appreciate you sending/posting this. I will observe it closely and also going to teach myself to be more familar with resistance on the multimeter. I follow the stated in pictures on resistance readings. I guess I will remove intake manifold and try to see if I can possibly find something in the wire that is not correct and or shorting. Thank you for your help. I will repost back here once I find the issue and fix it. Will also post pictures. Thanks again friend!

 

[mikeshutte]

Also double check your cylinder head temp sensor wiring and connector. I have an 03 B2300 and was having issues with temp spikes. Turned out to be the connector wasn't fully seated and sometimes it worked and other times it didn't.

 

[Maxx]

Temp spikes as in actual temp spikes within the engine temp cause the engine itself does not overheat. The issue is the reading is too high for the dash instrument cluster so I am currently in attempts of pin pointing where the issue is with the wiring from the temp sensor in the back to the dash instrument cluster for the gauge.