The 4 inch lift spindles have been installed and aligned.
And it is holding it's own weight.
While coming up with a plan to modify the fenders to make them fit the new suspension, I noticed that there is a definite droop in the rear section of the deck.
I saw this as a possibility while I was doing the work to install the new suspension. The way the weight is supported is different from the old suspension to the new. Plus I did cut out a section of the C channel that held the suspension in place.
I do believe I have a solution. I had planned to install a slide tray on the rear of the trailer for the middle section of the ramp that is currently pinned in place there. Right now, one has to crawl under the trailer to pull the pins, which has been a good enough for now solution, but not a good long term one. So, I have rough plans made already for that. They will just need to be modified a little to incorporate two 6' long 2"X3"X3/16" angle iron pieces to shore up the frame and provide an anchor point for the rest of the tray. The 6' pieces of angle will bolt to two of the three cross members in the from section and to the three in the rear. I would have them run full length, but there are two angled frame rails that run back from the tongue, further tying the tongue into the frame. It may be possible the bolt the angle iron into those angled pieces, giving yet another attachment point but I need to get under the trailer and take some measurements before I decide to include them or not. The picture with the 6' 6" level will give you an idea how hose angles would span the length of the trailer and from what point. At the rear of the front stake pocket, that is in the picture, is where the middle cross frame sits under the deck. That is also where the rear of the angle braces for the tongue get bolted to the frame.
As far as the fenders, I'm still mulling that all over in my mind. Because of the lift spindles being mounted on an angled suspension arms, the center point has shifted forward by about 2". That will obviously shift weigh off of the tongue, which should not be a problem since the tongue weight in most configurations has been on the heavier side of the recommended 10% - 15% tongue weight anyway. So, I have some latitude there. The fenders will need to be shifted forward by 2" as well. They also need to be lowered and some flat bar stock will need to be welded to the existing bracket to move the fenders out. The bracket will need to be bolted on top of the fender instead of underneath or I will need to cut a notch or a slot in the angle on the back side of the fender to allow the bracket to bolt on from underneath. All this movement will also effect the brush guard steps and the bracket to the rear that helps keep the fender steady and solid. The factory mount on theses trailers are notorious for allowing the fenders to wobble and rattle very badly. To the point of failure in some cases. Thus part of the reason the fenders have the extra bracing. That and I don't want a fender ripped off because I got too close to something hard enough the rip off an unreinforced fender.
But camping season is coming fast. I need to take care of the frame first so I can use the trailer to remove the fiberglass cap and install the roof top tent after I get the bed rack and canvas bed cap installed. I have cross bars made for the trailer so it can hold either one after the chain hoist has been used to lift it off of the truck and be moved out of the way so the cart that is holding the opposite either one can be rolled under the chain hoist so it can be lifted and put on the truck.
