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V8 help


Uncle Gump

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Most replacement compressors have oil in them when shipped. If you never added refrigerant to move the oil out... you might be OK. Also... with no refrigerant... the system probably never turned the compressor over because the clutch never kicked on.
 


Uncle Gump

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The noise you hear would likely be from the water pump.

At least that's my guess....
 

lil_Blue_Ford

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Sweet. I have a plan then. And yes the freeze plug I got was one with the nut in the middle because it is in an extremely tight spot. So I’ll take care of that, drain some oil and go ahead and just replace the water pump anyway then, it’s not too hard of a job, just a b***** to get the fan off, even with the fan remover tools.
Sounds like you need better fan removal tools. I bought a tool a couple years back and it’s the slickest thing I ever used. Eff all the usual tools, I’ll get a fan off faster than anything. I’ll have to either find a pic of it or go dig it out of the snow.

Also, as to the using water in a block, I usually do a couple flushes with water. If the vehicle isn’t going to be driven in the winter, once it gets cold, I’ll drain it and dump some RV antifreeze through. Won’t hurt anything, even dumping it on the ground because it’s mainly intended for RV and camper water lines. Just flush it with some water before you fill with coolant in the spring. If it’s going to be driven in the winter, even if I’m not happy with things, it gets regular coolant. I froze and trashed a block once. Never again. I keep careful tabs on what’s what anymore.
 

Northidahotrailblazer

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Id check over that thing really well.....I didn't think spokanes temp was much different than Northern Idahos temps over the last week.....It was -30 at my place just north of spirit lake..... Water in the block at -30 for a few days I don't want to bet but man thats not good..... I hope for a better out come, but we weren't just under freezing.....We were straight in weather from Alaska.....
 

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Well gents, I had the privilege of trying to replace my freeze plugs today. I found out the I have one on each side of the engine popped out, both are the ones directly aligned/right next to the engine mounts, so I have the great honor of pulling the bolts off the engine side mount, and will later attempt to lift the engine, ever so slightly, so I can get those stupid things in.
 
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Tomm1468

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So I scoped put the passenger side of the engine , and everything looked good, except cylinder 3. Idk what this is, some sort of scraping and possibly some cracks too?? This engine block was completely “new” about 5000 miles ago, pistons and rings too, so it shouldn’t look like this
 

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Tomm1468

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Also, the engine will fire up no problem when it’s the first cold start, once I turn it off, then try and start it again, it won’t turn over, idk why, it sits and cranks, then starts to smell like gas.
 

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Also, the engine will fire up no problem when it’s the first cold start, once I turn it off, then try and start it again, it won’t turn over, idk why, it sits and cranks, then starts to smell like gas.
The circular mark is a slight ridge at the top of the ring travel, the verticle scratch is porbably from carbon build up on the sides of the piston above the top ring. I wouldn't worry about either.
If you crank the engine and it spins, it's turning over, it sounds like a crank and no start situtaion. Am I reading that right?
If you smell gas it's either not firing or the IAC isn't opening. If you have spark usually the tach needle will wiggle a little when cranking. Next time it doesn't start after a few seconds, try depressing the gas a little. If it starts and either idles slow or stalls when you try letting it idle, clean your IAC valve using throttle body cleaner.
 

Tomm1468

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Yes, it sits and spins, I know for sure that its spinning. and since it starts to smell like gas, i figure the gas is running. just not actually wanting to start. I can sit and press the gas peddle as much as i want and it still wont turn over. but like i said, I can go out after its been sitting for 5 hours and start it right up, no issue. but once i turn it off, it doesn't want to start again, whether I leave it running for 30 minutes (up to operating temp), or it turn it on then off then try to turn it back on again, just wants to sit and spin.
 

19Walt93

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I meant to just depress the pedal a little and hold it there, if you're doing that it sounds like you don't have spark for some reason.
 

Tomm1468

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that's what I think, but tbh I'm not sure where to even start with that. Obviously the plugs, wires, and coil packs are fine, because when the truck starts right up, its all smooth, no issue running or driving. so its got to be the signal to spark ?? which doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me. there's no situation I can think of that would cause a crank, but no spark for a while, then randomly kind of spark up to a hard start.
 

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Sounds like excess fuel. Have you tried the "clear flooded engine" procedure? Hold gas pedal to floor while cranking engine. This stops the injectors from working. There should be no start, no trying to start, nothing at all. Just the engine turning over. If it barfs or tries to start there is fuel getting into one or more cylinders. Leaking injectors?
 

Tomm1468

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That would’ve been great to do, I have my engine stripped down to the heads ATM, and will take the heads off probably tomorrow. So I’ll be Able to directly inspect for cracks. Is there anywhere I can take the injectors to get tested ? I know how to do it at home, but I don’t think it’s super great
 

Tomm1468

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ALRIGHTY BOYS, and ladies.... I stripped the engine down to the pistons to check my piston walls, no damage was detected. I got her all put back together, and while I was at it, I ordered some new OEM injectors, thinking that might be the cause of any possible engine flooding. And now she runs great, I'm really hoping that the new injectors will also solve my low MPG's problem. Since the conclusion of the community there was that I possibly had a fuel leak, though, I couldn't find where. So Two birds one stone. As far as the engine being frozen before, I have no idea what caused the engine to sound like a "diesel truck" I pulled the water pump, and everything was completely fine, so IDK... but its not a problem now. I popped two freeze plugs out, both in the hardest place possible to replace them, but I managed to jack the engine up and install the neoprene fastener replacement, they seem to be working properly... for now. It seems I almost entirely avoided any damage to the engine from the deep freeze. I say "almost" because now my rear main seal, which was leaking like a drop or two a day, has enlarged to many many drops every time I run the truck. I guess I can't complain too much since I avoided a much more expensive fix, but now I'm cursed to be continually checking my oil level until June when I'll be back home with my floor jack to drop the transmission. Oh, Also, I fixed the issue I was having with voltage as well. I was having random times when my truck would drop to 13.5 volts or lower volts while running, which was... concerning, but I couldn't find what was wrong. turns out the Passenger side fire wall to engine block ground was not properly installed. So, when I put the engine back together this time, I was able to properly connect the firewall ground to the cylinder head, now everything is running perfectly at 14.5.

In conclusion. I fixed my gas flooding issue, and, I hope my bad MPG's. I fixed my popped freeze plugs, and I got my voltage regulation problem solved. I gained, however, a larger rear main seal leak. Can't win them all, but it would seem this break down has been an overall positive turn of events. thanks for every ones help.
 

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