A length difference has never come up in any discussion I've ever seen about the AWD T-cases, so I find that hard to believe. I don't have a better answer though.
Yeah, I dunno what else to think. When we did dad’s 2000 Ranger, we used the engine/trans/AWD case out of a 99 Mountaineer. Actually used the Ranger mounts in the truck and I re-drilled the one hole on the drivers side engine mount so it fit. Don’t remember any issues fitting the driveshafts. I was really shocked on mine when I went to fit the front shaft and it was pretty much an inch too long. I tried it a couple times on different days. Finally fished out the Explorer front shaft and it was about an inch shorter.
I used the engine/trans/AWD case out of a 98 Explorer. Also changed the front diff with the Explorer one because my Ranger had 4.10 open gears and the Explorer had 3.73 gears and a rear LS. I used the Explorer motor mounts. Aside from the driveshafts, everything looks like it fits where it should. The rear shaft comes closer to fitting at ride height, but it’s really still a little long.
Like you, I’ve never seen references to any of this being a problem as part of the 98-00 Ranger 5.0 swaps. The only thing I can think of is that the 98 Explorer is a less-than-ideal donor because the fuel system doesn’t match the Ranger so if there’s an AWD case size difference, it may not be noted because it’s not a common donor for my vintage Ranger. And you’re not going to want to run an AWD case on a 97 and older with the TTB, so the only logical conclusion I can come to is that perhaps the case changed.
Weak, sagging springs is possible. The thickness of the spring pack can also have an effect. Also, Explorer spring have a lower spring rate than the Ranger springs, meaning they are softer. I've currently got them on the back of mine in place of the stock springs and lift blocks. I hate it. Too soft. That's part of the driving force to go ahead and lower mine, to get rid of the Explorer springs and go back to stock Ranger springs.
What combination of leafs did you use to build your spring pack? I had considered mixing and matching packs as well. If the main leaf bows up away from the rest of the pack Idon;t think it is the issue, it isn;t being compressed enough to meet the rest. I don't know, this is all getting confusing.
Custom, or rearched springs may be your answer. I don't know anything about rearching spring, I just know that I've heard of people doing it for lift.
Interesting. I assumed they were a stiffer spring rate since they have the same arch as the Ranger springs, or very close to it.
So to make these packs, I took the 98 4-door Explorer leafs and broke the packs apart. I also had a couple sets of first gen 4-door Explorer leafs, so I picked a set and broke those apart. They were a thicker leaf with less arch. Both the 98 springs and the older ones were 3-leaf packs, a main and two leafs, then the overload. I cut the eyes off the older mains and found that the shorter leafs of both packs were different lengths, the shortest of the old pack was a mid sized leaf compared to the 98 pack. So I went…
98 main
older main minus eyes
98 long leaf
older “short“ leaf (really a medium length)
overload
I can add in the 98 short leaf to these packs. The older packs just didn’t have the same arch and as near as I can tell from the tech archives, that’s normal for the “heavy duty” pack option back then. But I think it’s making my packs look odd with weight on them. I’ll have to get a pic.
Supposedly the spring shops around can re-arch and build packs. I was just trying to keep costs down where I could. My Ranger leafs were sitting dead flat and my little trailer with my lawn tractor on it would pretty much set me on the bump stops, which is why I was trying to put together some decent packs.
Where did I say grind?
Ah, the "g" was a typo. That was supposed to say"find some 2008+ torsion keys". No nothing to grind, they are just clocked different resulting in decreased height.
Typo makes sense, lol.
I'm not trying to slam either. I'd say sitting low on 27-30" tires is about where I want to be. Not tucked, just filling the wheel wells. I just don't know how much I need to lower it to get a stance I'll like and am trying to plan ahead.
Yes alignment, namely camber. Alignment cams can only correct so far, once maxed out you would need longer arms to drop more. The angle of the ball joint would also need to be considered with longer arms. You would probably need to go LOW to need them, but no one can seem to give me a number on how low that is. All the explorer guys just say that it varies. I don't expect to need them, but would prefer to have a plan in place if I do. Bumpstops definitely need to be addressed before arms, but I assumed that was a given at this point.
Yes coil overs are an expensive item. I'm not on a fixed budget, but always have other stuff fighting for it. About $600 worth of HVAC repairs on the house today. Auto insurances in a couple of weeks. That is why they are towards the bottom of my list of mods. I'll get the stance I want while still on t-bars, then decide if I'm happy or need coils.
Lol, my 31’s are really looking a little big right now. They still fit and don’t look like they will rub, but I think I might have to find a more appropriate tire size. Use the 31s on something else or as winter tires or whatever. I’ll probably run them until I get something else though unless rubbing becomes an issue. It really looks odd being able to look over the roof of the Ranger with these knobby tires filling the wheel arches.
I don’t know if the aftermarket cam set I got allows for more movement than stock or what, but eyeball-wise says I still have plenty of adjustment. Which should mean I can still go lower, or rather as low as I intend to. I just put new upper control arms on recently so I’d rather not replace them. I really think it will be ok even if I lower it a little more. My current tires and the fender liner will likely get into an argument if I go much lower or I’ll have to have virtually zero up travel to the front suspension which wouldn’t be good.
I’m usually not on a fixed budget, but there have been extenuating circumstances and I’m not really trying to discuss it all on an open forum. I do understand everything competing for what money there is though, since that’s how it usually goes for me. Someday I’d still like to do coil-overs unless the T-bars work out better than I’m expecting. It’s just going to be a couple years before they become an option unless I stumble across a deal too good to pass up.
Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and 
