Driveline Fitment

[1984RESTOMOD]

Locating my 302 into 1984 4x4 chassis and stuck in the directions. Any experience/advice? Directions

 

[franklin2]

I don't see where you cut the slots in the crossmember?

 

[1984RESTOMOD]

I haven’t yet. Not sure which preexisting holes to go off of. Do I leave mounts on motor or remove them and mock them n the frame first? Not sure how to measure width of mounting surfaces on the block to replicate in my mock up.

I don't see where you cut the slots in the crossmember?

 

[rubydist]

You need to bolt those mounts to the frame first, then set the engine down on them.

 

[franklin2]

I haven’t yet. Not sure which preexisting holes to go off of. Do I leave mounts on motor or remove them and mock them n the frame first? Not sure how to measure width of mounting surfaces on the block to replicate in my mock up.

It tells you in the instructions with a diagram. The way the holes are slotted, it looks to me when you are done the mounts will drop right in already bolted to the engine I would hate to try to bolt the mounts to the engine after the engine was sitting on them. The factory would have never done it that way. They plop the motor down in the frame on the assembly line and go.

 

[1984RESTOMOD]

It tells you in the instructions with a diagram. The way the holes are slotted, it looks to me when you are done the mounts will drop right in already bolted to the engine I would hate to try to bolt the mounts to the engine after the engine was sitting on them. The factory would have never done it that way. They plop the motor down in the frame on the assembly line and go.

They are lateral slots as I see it. I assume then I will have to lower the motor in at an angle then rotate once the threaded studs are in the slots?

 

[franklin2]

They are lateral slots as I see it. I assume then I will have to lower the motor in at an angle then rotate once the threaded studs are in the slots?

Read the instructions again myself, I think you are correct. This would be a time where I would do it my own way. My way would be to

1. Install the driveshaft, or carefully measure, and see where the engine needs to be front to rear. See how this compares to the instructions.
2. Then slot the crossmember at the correct location. If the studs won't fit through the crossmember, I would make the hole large enough so they would, and then make some metal square washers out of thick plate with a hole in the middle and put them on with the metric nut.

Then move on, you have a lot more things to worry about, this is just the first of many.

 

[1984RESTOMOD]

Read the instructions again myself, I think you are correct. This would be a time where I would do it my own way. My way would be to

1. Install the driveshaft, or carefully measure, and see where the engine needs to be front to rear. See how this compares to the instructions.
2. Then slot the crossmember at the correct location. If the studs won't fit through the crossmember, I would make the hole large enough so they would, and then make some metal square washers out of thick plate with a hole in the middle and put them on with the metric nut.

Then move on, you have a lot more things to worry about, this is just the first of many.

Good info - I will take this into account. I don’t have driveshafts yet. They will need custom made I’m sure. The length of the ZF trans and BW1356 will shorten the rear shaft a fair amount. Hopefully it doesn’t affect pinion angle severely but I would not be surprised.

 

[franklin2]

The zf is a very large transmission. Be aware that on the big trucks that it came in, they had different floor plates with a larger hump for more clearance when using that transmission.

And you can always go to a double cardan joint for the joint right behind the transfer case. That's what they did on the Bronco II's because the driveline was so short. That double cardan gives you a lot of forgiveness as far as driveline angle severity and co-ordination from the engine/trans/transfer case and the pinon angle.

 

[1984RESTOMOD]

The zf is a very large transmission. Be aware that on the big trucks that it came in, they had different floor plates with a larger hump for more clearance when using that transmission.

And you can always go to a double cardan joint for the joint right behind the transfer case. That's what they did on the Bronco II's because the driveline was so short. That double cardan gives you a lot of forgiveness as far as driveline angle severity and co-ordination from the engine/trans/transfer case and the pinon angle.

I'll be using 3" body lift spacers to allow more clearance in the trans tunnel - I look forward to posting a build article with props to all those who aided along the way and a write up on the ZF install

 

[Maui-sprint]

Have you fitted the BW1356 yet? Im curious to see how that goes. I have the same case for my build ('89 standard cab shortbox) but have not tried to install it yet. I will be going with an M5R2 for the tranny but TC clearance should be about the same between our trucks...

 

[1984RESTOMOD]

Have you fitted the BW1356 yet? Im curious to see how that goes. I have the same case for my build ('89 standard cab shortbox) but have not tried to install it yet. I will be going with an M5R2 for the tranny but TC clearance should be about the same between our trucks...

I am dealing with this currently. Going to have to clock it for clearance on driver frame rail; should be plenty of room w body lift to do so

 

[Maui-sprint]

Would be interested to know the outcome of the clocking. Is your 1356 a manual or electric case? Mine is a manual, so I would need to modify the shift linkage.

 

[1984RESTOMOD]

Would be interested to know the outcome of the clocking. Is your 1356 a manual or electric case? Mine is a manual, so I would need to modify the shift linkage.

Manual linkage. Clocking ring be here Friday. It’s either that or shave off some of the outer profile on the tcase to make lateral clearance

 

[1984RESTOMOD]

I may have messed up when I notched my frame for initial fit but figured I can reinforce with sheet metal. This is it bolted up so you can see where I rub the inside of frame. The part that rubs is a locating boss inside the tcase casting