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My parking brake has been pretty useless for a while, so I ordered new right and left cables since the old ones were original and in pretty bad shape. As soon as I pulled the wheels I realized my axle seal bearing repair kit had not repaired anything and I am again looking at leaking axle seals...

Before you do anything perform some diagnostics. A compression check and a leak-down test can tell you a lot about the innards. You can also pull the head and have that refreshed. If that doesn't do anything for performance you will have a good cylinder head when you do the rings and bearings...

Very cool. I did a CJ5 project with my 16 yr. old son. The B2 won't be the most expensive car in the HS parking lot but will be the coolest because he worked on it himself.

Me neither. That's the mystery. It runs Ok and charges Ok but has a weird open loop closed loop issue still...

Yes to the separate voltage regulator. Vehicle is charging like it should. The cluster does have an AMP meter and it seems to be working (slight charge).

Anyone know where this is supposed to go? I can't find it on the schematic. Yellow or orange w/black stripe going towards the alternator.

The axles seals were toast and on closer inspection so were the bearings. The axles were pretty trash too, but I installed these axle-saver bearings and I think that will get me down the road for a while.

Went for a breakfast burrito run this morning and the brake pedal went to the floor. Got it home and pulled the rear wheels. The right one had looked wet for a while, and I was planning on doing the axle seals but now I'm doing the brakes too.

Well, I figured it out. Nothing to do with the fuel pressure. When I changed the cam seal, I had the timing off a couple of teeth. I had to put the plastic timing cover back on (glad I kept it) to make sure it was at TDC and then used a rope between the cam bolt and aux sprocket to time the cam...

Thanks RonD, It looks like I'm barking up the wrong tree.

Trying to diagnose the running issues with the Ranger. Fuel pressure goes right to 37 PSI when priming and runs at about the same. It starts and idles OK until it starts to stumble, the exhaust gets smoky and the FP goes to 40 PSI. When it smooths out it goes back to 37 PSI. Also, when it shuts...

So I went back in and checked if the cam seal is leaking again and surprise, it is. Has anyone used a speedi-sleeve on the camshaft to address this. The cam nose is tapered a bit so not sure one would work.

Thanks, RonD. That looks like it.

The two wires are Green and Black w/white stripe

Can anyone identify this sensor? It screws into a pocket in the intake but is not exposed to any vacuum or water. I can't find the part number in the Google machine. This is on a 1985 F.I. 2.3L

I replaced my cam seal but I think the problem lies from the groove around the cam from my "refurbished" cylinder head. When I reinstalled the cam seal I used some yamabond around the outside JIC. Something tells me I'll be going back in...

Could be the cam seal. I know mine is leaking like crazy from there. I am going to tackle it this coming week.

Thanks for the info Tom. Yeah, she was my daughter's first car and then became the farm truck/motorcycle hauler/parts chaser. Still going strong (well, sort of) after 230K miles.

Right. The timing is ok for now. I need to see where this oil is coming from. I suspect the cam seal since I just replaced the head.

Just curious but can the cover be left off? I have an oil leak coming from somewhere in front and I'd like to see from where.