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Project 4x4 Commuter Mazda


got all the electrical squared away. ran the compressor....got to 50 psi and then never got higher, so I turned it off and found air leaking out of my horn. Long story short I installed the air-line solenoid backwards....hope I didn't ruin it. Got to late to fix it but I'll try tomorrow. Sorta a pain to turn it around.

So in turn it all is functional, but then again it isn't :bawling:

No horn, nor air in case of flat :icon_idea:

Good news is I got all the wiring right :icon_thumby:

Here are 3 pics of how I mounted the commpressor to the inside of the passenger's frame rail.

1009001349.jpg


1009001349a.jpg


1009001349b.jpg
 
Hacked off a bunch of exhaust up to the end of my muffler....sounds so much better. Now instead of a little resonation at 1500rpm and 2500 rpm, I get a consistent throaty rumble all the way off of idle up to 3000 rpms. So much better. Thats the sound I've been looking for.....very surprised how loud my Flowmaster Delta 40 is now.

Flipped the air solenoid, and its all hooked up and ready to go. Holds air too....thats a plus!
 
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So how much did all of the air compressor stuff run you if you dont mind me asking? i'd like to put one in my b2 eventually.

one other ?, where'd you get your c-clip elim kit? i wanna put one in my 8.8 before i put everything back together
 
^hes probably referring to elimination of the e-clip that holds in the inner passenger side axle shaft...in which case use a spring for an echo lawn mower and weld on the shaft (its in the tech library)

correct me if Im wrong Legoms...
 
yeah, i'm not sure, it's in his sig.....when i was taking my donor 8.8 apart, i noticed that their were just the 2 clips holding the axle in and i had heard of the eliminator kits.....just wondering
 
So how much did all of the air compressor stuff run you if you dont mind me asking? i'd like to put one in my b2 eventually.

one other ?, where'd you get your c-clip elim kit? i wanna put one in my 8.8 before i put everything back together

Tank was $80, compressor was $95 three years ago. If you want on board air be sure to get a constant duty compressor (I didn't and regret it). The constant duty ones are more expensive, $200 plus, but they are worth it.

My c-clip eliminator is for the front Dana 35 pig, the kits for the Ford 8.8 are very expensive, and most are out of production.

^hes probably referring to elimination of the e-clip that holds in the inner passenger side axle shaft...in which case use a spring for an echo lawn mower and weld on the shaft (its in the tech library)

correct me if Im wrong Legoms...

Correct, but I call it a C-clip, as I have no clue why people calls it an e-clip as it clearly looks like a "C" to me lol. Same thing though. Also you, don't have to weld it like the article says, just use hose clamps to retain the dust/grease boot on the slip joint and that will hold the spring in place so that it can't slip up over the larger part, rendering itself useless. This mod once done makes tear down of the front end much easier, as you don't have to remove the third member if you break a u-joint or axle shaft.

Another note, I sold the Yakima fairing, so my total expenditure was a total of $130 for crossbars, clips and q-towers. Not bad! I didn't like the way the fairing made my truck look and I can't mount bike trays to it anyway with it on so I sold it. Wind noise is negligible, its actually less noise than what the tires make.
 
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Bought some oil (well 6 quarts) and a filter. Went with the napa filter that is larger capacity described in the magazine.

Napa Oil Filter 1773


~FOR REFERENCE~


Seems to be the equivalent (according to Baldwin's cross reference app) to the following (please correct me if I'm wrong):

Fram #PH977A
Winex #51773
Purolater #L40017
Baldwin #BT251
Donaldson #P550299
Fleetguard #LF697
Motorcraft #FL-299

Keep in mind, these are part numbers for the larger capacity filters, not the stock sized ones.
 
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Not really a mod, but I bought a high lift. Where should I put it?

I have four options:
1) On roof bars (don't know if I can park in the garage at school with it)
2) On top bar of front bumper (reducing visibility, common spot tho)
3) Bottom bar of front bumper, below lights (also easy an easy mount)
4) In the bed (least favorite)

1121001749.jpg
 
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I was gonna buy one of those this weekend when i was with fx2prerunner at Princess Auto but i just bought some lights instead, ill get more use out of hte lights.
the one I was looking at was a 48"er for $99 bucks. what size is yours?
 
Its a 48 incher, $73 with tax from Napa Auto Parts.
 
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make a mount like I did, it works awesome here, and gives me a place to tie down dirtbikes and different things.

hiliftmountback.jpg
 
yeah thats a good place actually. have any pics of the mounts themselves?
 
i wouldn't mount it on the lower part of the bumper...

on top of the bumper would work....

in the bed where it is away from mud and rocks is where it belongs....

l8r, John
 
hey the brackets are just pieces of 1x2 quarter inch plate with a hole top and bottom, with a bolt welded to it. I welded a washer on the bolt to stop teh jack from sliding back further. I made wingnuts by welding some round bar to the half inch nuts. I made plates for the back side of the bed, to distribute the load, and just bolted it through.

hiliftmount.jpg


its sturdy enough that i can stand on it, and Im 230 lbs.
 
i wouldn't mount it on the lower part of the bumper...

on top of the bumper would work....

in the bed where it is away from mud and rocks is where it belongs....

l8r, John

I'm thinkin not either b/c if I get in a wreck its the first thing to make contact, and it adds length to my already long nose, and I can't see it there so there is no perception on where it is at and how it affects the arc of a turn.

Yeah it NEEDs to go in the bed, but I hate to drill holes. That really is the best place for it.

So I think I will mount it on the top of the bumper for now, and see how I like it. I have a feeling I'm gonna love /hate it. Love how it looks at hate how ot obstructs my view even more while driving. Then I'll move it to the roof if I can't live with it. Roof mount ideas anybody? I have 1" yakima cross bars fyi.

Going to use 2x 2" exhaust clamps, weld a rod coupling on the flat part of the clamp, then use a bolt through the hi-light and into the rod coupling.

Nathan, thanks for the pic. I like the wingnut idea.
 
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