PlumCrazy's Build

[86 slo-vo]

whats the difference in the HD and a normal m50d behind a 4.0?

 

[PlumCrazy]

whats the difference in the HD and a normal m50d behind a 4.0?

No one is 100% sure yet.lol

I beleive the only difference is the extra hole in the bell housing that allows for it to be bolted to the OHV or SOHC 4.0. The SOHC 4.0 doesnt use the top passenger hole because there is and oil passage or something (might be the timing chain) where the bolt hole needs to be, so they moved it down 3" or so.

If you look at the picture of the bellhousing you can see there are two holes close together on the top left, the regular 4.0 M50D doesnt have the lower hole.

I have only pulled the top cover off the HD so far and it appears to be the sam internals and gearing as the reguler 4.0 M50D.

I dont really need an HD, but it was the same price as any other 4x4 tranny in the yard and had the lowest mileage. Not to mention the truck was wrapped around a pole so I know it running up until the time it was totaled.lol

-PlumCrazy

 

[86 slo-vo]

interesting, makes you think why they gave it the name...thanks for the info

 

[nate09]

interesting, makes you think why they gave it the name...thanks for the info

i think if anyone can figure it out, itll be plum.

 

[-Nathan-]

I may. I have decent camara now. I also have a full rebuild kit, a M50D rebiuld manual, and a 4x4 M50d R1HD.

-PlumCrazy

if you dont mind me asking, where did you get the rebuild kit and manual?

 

[PlumCrazy]

if you dont mind me asking, where did you get the rebuild kit and manual?

Transparts Warehouse. I was going to get everything through my buddy at Ford, but 10% above cost was still going to cost me over 200 just for sychros.

-PlumCrazy

 

[-Nathan-]

the manual as well?

 

[PlumCrazy]

the manual as well?

No. I got the manual through South West Gear.

 

[Toofarnorth]

Just finished reading this entire thread. Very impressed! Keep up with the updates and pictures.

 

[PlumCrazy]

Just finished reading this entire thread. Very impressed! Keep up with the updates and pictures.

Thank you. I kind of quit doing a lot on the truck for a while and just used to get from point A to point B, but with old GF gone I have gotten back into working on the truck.lol

I have a lot of stuff waitng to go on the truck.

-Rebuild kit, M50D HD, and I still need a low mileage 2.3/2.5/3.0 tranny

-Thunderbolt edtion Ranger mirrors (look like mine now, but with turn signal indicators in the glass)

-Exploder mirror covers with puddle lights

-Full circle PS bracket for Saginaw pump

-4.10 gears and locker for the 8.8 (I already have D35 done)

All of that is just sitting in the shop.lol

I should have some new shoes on it soon aswell.

-PlumCrazy

 

[Toofarnorth]

Ok, I was noticing way way back one page one where you built your own extended RA's the originals had a post for the lower shock mount and your version has a hole and a bracket bolted to the RA.

First, how did you get the stud/bolt out?
Second, did you fab up the little bracket that is bolted to it?
And finally what are you running for shocks now and will the work for a non lifted (yet) ranger?

 

[PlumCrazy]

Ok, I was noticing way way back one page one where you built your own extended RA's the originals had a post for the lower shock mount and your version has a hole and a bracket bolted to the RA.

First, how did you get the stud/bolt out?
Second, did you fab up the little bracket that is bolted to it?
And finally what are you running for shocks now and will the work for a non lifted (yet) ranger?

The radius arms I used were from a D28 truck, and those brackets were factory on the arms, because the the front sway bar attaches o the inside of the arms using ubolts on the older trucks. Right now I am still using the shocks that were for a 4" lift. They are damn near maxed out just sitting there level. They are half blown and are in dier need of replacement.

 

[PlumCrazy]

Got some work done on the truck this weekend.

I replaced my PS pump with a saginaw pump.

The full circle 4.0 bracket requires a bit more clearancing than the 2.3 and 3.0 brackets. The part that actually bridges the gap must be trimmed down so only the "face" of it remains, then you have to nip the end off of a few ribs and trim the top edge to clear the reservoir.

Here are some comparison pics

The full circle bracket also has alot more webs in it that were deleted on the newer bracket.

After I bolted the pump to the bracket and installed the pulley and them bolted the whole thing on the truck. It worked out pretty well.

After I got the pump on and filled it up I discovered that I should have taken a closer look at the hose fittings. Apparently the Saginaw pump is made to recieve a line with a straight end and oring and the newer Rangers use a goofy line that is made to seal using a nylon ring on the tube nut. The threads are the same, but it wont seal.lol To make it work on the newer Ranger, all you have to do is pick up a High side line for an older Ranger. I bought a new one for an 85.

Here is a comparison. The new line is style you need. The block above the fittings is where the hose goes into the pump (it is held to pump with a Banjo bolt ans sealed with copper washers)

Here is the finished product.

Also. When installing the pulley on the Saginaw pump, dont press the pulley on all the way the the "step" on the shaft. Leave about a 3/16 gap. If you push it too far back it will throw the belt out of alignment and sqeal like a MFer.

 

[PlumCrazy]

I finished up my mirrors today.

I swapped the outer housing and motors from an Exploder with puddle lights. I would have just swapped the whole deal, but the angle of the triangle peice is different between Expos and Rangers. I tapped into the door switch wiring, so they come on when ever the doors are open but not when the dome light is turned on from the dash switch.

With a firm hit from the bottom the outer housing will pop off the triangle shaped door bracket.

Stock Ranger mirror assembly

Expo outer housing popped on Ranger triangle door bracket

Heres the Expo housing with backing plate trimmed for LED indicator

Thunderbolt glass seperated from the backing plate

I also installed the mirror glass from a Thunderbolt edition Ranger with the LED turn signals behind the glass.

The plastic backing plate that the Signal mirror come with are made for like 03+ Rangers, so the pegs for the motors dont line up. The backing plate has to be heated with a heat gun to soften the glue, then carefully seperated and the glass must be clipped/glued onto the older backing plate. A hole has to be cut in the older backing plate to allow room for the LED indicator.

I also got around to tinting my windows a little. I put 20% al the way around, I put 20% over the factory 35-50% in the rear so it is pretty dark. It makes it awful hard to see all my tools and subs in the back.

The UPS man brought me some goodies today too.
New Gatorback belt. (These are getting hard to find, AutoZone doesnt carry Gatorbacks anymore).

An an Accel Super Coil

Hopefully I will get around to rebuilding my tranny and putting in my 4.10s soon. I am tired of walking past them everyday in the shop.lol I start school next week an I know the JY's up there have a bunch of Ranger trannies for 50 bucks, so I will pull a low mile 2.3/2.5/3.0 M50D when I am up there and then I can build another hybrid to replace my current prototype with a noisy input.

 

[PlumCrazy]

I just realized that never posted apic of my S10 shiftboot. I pu it on like 8 months ago.lol I used a boot from a late 80's early 90's S10. It looks leather, but is actually rubber just molded to look that way. It really looks like leather too, my dad has had an S10 with the same boot for 3 years and I always thought it was actually leather or vinyl.lol

I just trimmed the lower section of the boot off and stretched it over the top flange of the original Expo cubby hole that was cut off when I made my first boot.

And here is one of the tcase knob.