Gen 1 Standard Cab Install

[4x4fun]

everything is ok with the red one.

but that yellow one is messed up. it needs to be 12v no matter the position of the key. start following it back to the battery see what went wrong. connection, fuse, ect

 

[baxtej44]

everything is ok with the red one.

but that yellow one is messed up. it needs to be 12v no matter the position of the key. start following it back to the battery see what went wrong. connection, fuse, ect

yeah, that would also make sense as to why it's not keeping my settings...

so is it okay that they are capped off together? my friend said that pioneer sometimes does that...


i'm not sure how to really go about following the wire back... would i need to tear apart my entire dash? my old head unit (aftermarket) kept it's settings, so is there any fuses that could have been popped? (i only have a fuse panel inside my cab, i believe)

could it be the harness adapter? how could i test if that harness adapter was bad?

 

[ForOffRoadDriving]

first off i would unplug the adapter and test for 12v at the factory plug (where the yellow wire plugs into), if you dont have 12v there then i would either jump a wire off from your cigarette lighter (with a fus inline of course) or attempt to trace the short farther into the harness (could be a mess?). if you do have 12v at the factory harness then change the setting on your dvom to ohms and check the resistance from the wire end of the adapter to the terminal end, your reading should go from 1.00 to 0.00. if it stays at 1.00 then your yellow wire in the adapter is broken or the terminal was not properly crimped onto the wire when it was assembled. hope this helps you out, i hate to see this simple install spriral into such a nightmare for you but i know youll get it figured out, especially if your previous radio worked fine. as for combining the red and yellow wires, if theyre all tied together then your radio is always going to have 12v constant power, whether the key is on or off because you are feeding the red wire constant power from the yellow wire (once you figure out the constant 12v problem) so you want to keep them separate. is your dome light still working? i thought i remembered reading that it stopped working after your radio started working, so im thinking check your fuse panel (looking in the hanes manual it shoes that there is one behind one of your dash panels) location #8 controls the dome light, cargo light, power mirrors, and the digital clock (this will be the constant power to the radio).

 

[baxtej44]

first off i would unplug the adapter and test for 12v at the factory plug (where the yellow wire plugs into), if you dont have 12v there then i would either jump a wire off from your cigarette lighter (with a fus inline of course) or attempt to trace the short farther into the harness (could be a mess?). if you do have 12v at the factory harness then change the setting on your dvom to ohms and check the resistance from the wire end of the adapter to the terminal end, your reading should go from 1.00 to 0.00. if it stays at 1.00 then your yellow wire in the adapter is broken or the terminal was not properly crimped onto the wire when it was assembled. hope this helps you out, i hate to see this simple install spriral into such a nightmare for you but i know youll get it figured out, especially if your previous radio worked fine. as for combining the red and yellow wires, if theyre all tied together then your radio is always going to have 12v constant power, whether the key is on or off because you are feeding the red wire constant power from the yellow wire (once you figure out the constant 12v problem) so you want to keep them separate. is your dome light still working? i thought i remembered reading that it stopped working after your radio started working, so im thinking check your fuse panel (looking in the hanes manual it shoes that there is one behind one of your dash panels) location #8 controls the dome light, cargo light, power mirrors, and the digital clock (this will be the constant power to the radio).

so i'm thinking that most likely it's a fuse or the harness adapter... since my old radio worked fine.


and my dome light/door chime only works when the radio works.

and okay about the two wires together, but i wont need to do that once it's fixed, right? lol. ya i know what you mean, what a mess for such a simple project.. wish i could have like a month, and unlimited budget, and be able to just completely tear apart my truck and do all of this, it'd be way easier to have it completely tore apart, i'd be able to find the problem real quick... but that will never happen haha...

thx guys, i'll check some stuff out this weekend. tomorrow is busy for me.

 

[ForOffRoadDriving]

to answer your question about the red and yellow wires yes, once you get the constant 12v problem figured out youll want to separate them (red to red, yellow to yellow) so that everything works properly.

 

[baxtej44]

to answer your question about the red and yellow wires yes, once you get the constant 12v problem figured out youll want to separate them (red to red, yellow to yellow) so that everything works properly.

yeah. thanks.


busy this morning, until this afternoon.... hopefully i can try and test my yellow wire in a few different spots to try and figure it out... and/or maybe try and bring a screw from the trim plates along the floor to the hardware store and try and get 8 new screws so that i can drill out the old ones, pull up the carpet, run my power wire on the drivers side, RCA's and remote on the passenger side, and that would be good progress for today to me. sunday maybe i can keep looking for carpet somewhere around town. might just try walmart, and get some 3m spray adhesive.

 

[ForOffRoadDriving]

ive always bought my carpet (for boxes) from a fabric store around here called jo-ann fabrics (its like a walmart but for craft supplies). the screws youll want for the door sill plates are probably going to be #8 x 1" or #10 x 1". i had #8s in mine before but they were loose fitting, so i went to #10 and it tightened them right up. i blew my subs last night, so ill be shopping the internet for new ones all day, so if you got questions ill be around.

 

[baxtej44]

ive always bought my carpet (for boxes) from a fabric store around here called jo-ann fabrics (its like a walmart but for craft supplies). the screws youll want for the door sill plates are probably going to be #8 x 1" or #10 x 1". i had #8s in mine before but they were loose fitting, so i went to #10 and it tightened them right up. i blew my subs last night, so ill be shopping the internet for new ones all day, so if you got questions ill be around.

are the screws the same in all generations that had those? i'll just bring in one of them to lowe's to see what they think. there's a walmart, lowe's, and even a specialty audio shop all within a mile from each other, so i'll just try lowe's to get the screws, then audio shop (cuz it's closer) to get the carpet.

i gotta try and figure out how much carpet i will need (math, on a weekend.. uggghhh haha)

 

[ForOffRoadDriving]

dont forget to grab some glue while youre at lowes, carpet wont stick without it! i believe the screws are the same in all generations, it will just depend on how worn out or rusted your holes are in the floor pan. i switched my aluminum sills in my gen 2 out for plastic ones from a gen 3 because every winter they would start to corrode and turn to a nasty gel (i love michigans salty winters...not ). the hole spacing is the same and they are the same length so they were a screw on mod.

 

[baxtej44]

got some #10 screws, 1/2" i believe. they look better anyway cuz they are silver instead of the black.

also got the missing set screw that belongs in my truck box, now i just gotta get an allen key to tighten it down.


gonna carpet my box tomorrow with a friend who has done it before (and yes, i did forget the spray glue lmao... i'll get some 3m stuff tomorrow)

i'm thinking i'm going to spray paint the inside of my amp rack, idk if it would look good carpeted or not... but we'll figure that out tomorrow i guess.






okay, what do i need to do in order to run a wire off of my cigg lighter to work for my constant 12v for my head unit? i heard fuse? what size, what style? i already have the wire cut that will be plenty long enough, and i'm ready to finally put my dash back together, so i need to get this done.

 

[ForOffRoadDriving]

for the cigarette lighter power youll want to get the power wire out of the dash as far as you can, then cut it in a place which will still allow you ample length to work with. get a fuse holder at the parts store and fuse it with one of the same rating that your head unit has. take your 12v constant power wire running to the hu and attach one end of the fuse holder to it either by soldering and shrink wrapping it or by using butt connectors (i know you used wire nuts in the adapter and that scares the hell out of me, but if its all you can use i understand). now take the other end of the fuse holder and the wire from cigarette lighter end and twist them together and place them in one end of the butt connector and crimp it. put the remaining cigarette lighter wire (coming out of the dash) and crimp it in the other end of the butt connector. now you should have 12v constant to your HU.

 

[baxtej44]

for the cigarette lighter power youll want to get the power wire out of the dash as far as you can, then cut it in a place which will still allow you ample length to work with. get a fuse holder at the parts store and fuse it with one of the same rating that your head unit has. take your 12v constant power wire running to the hu and attach one end of the fuse holder to it either by soldering and shrink wrapping it or by using butt connectors (i know you used wire nuts in the adapter and that scares the hell out of me, but if its all you can use i understand). now take the other end of the fuse holder and the wire from cigarette lighter end and twist them together and place them in one end of the butt connector and crimp it. put the remaining cigarette lighter wire (coming out of the dash) and crimp it in the other end of the butt connector. now you should have 12v constant to your HU.

i got how to do it, i just needed to know what size fuse...

i went down to advance and ended up getting a buss "heavy duty fuse" assembly, it's 12g wire (not sure i REALLY needed that, but o well) and it comes with a 30amp fuse... is that a good number? too much? not enough? i don't want too high cuz i want it to blow before it catches anything on fire ya know?


bought some new irwin titanium drill bits and i'm gonna go work on drilling out my old screws on my trim plates and putting the new screws in after i pull up the carpet and run the power wire on the drivers side and the RCA's and signal wire on the passenger side.


wish me luck!

 

[ForOffRoadDriving]

look on the back of your head unit, it should have a fuse somewhere near the power plug. what ever the rating on that fuse is will be what you want to put in the inline fuse holder.

 

[baxtej44]

look on the back of your head unit, it should have a fuse somewhere near the power plug. what ever the rating on that fuse is will be what you want to put in the inline fuse holder.

oh, well i believe it's a 10amp (without looking i wouldn't know for sure)... so i should match that?


also... guys idk why i have to have such bad luck.

checked fuses, the one was out for the door ding, dome light, radio etc. replaced it, they work.

i went to all the trouble of putting that new line in, and hooked it up. no power

tested the whole new line, we're gettin power.
tested the old line, we're now getting power, idk what the heck is going on.

hooked up the newly ran line to the radio harness and probed the prong that the batt yellow wire is hooked up to, power. old line into the radio harness, power.

that tells me it's something in the radio itself, correct? the amp on the back is not blown.




UUGGGGHHHH I'M GONNA HAVE GREY HAIR BY THE END OF THIS

 

[ForOffRoadDriving]

so your "yellow" wire on the factory plug side of the harness is getting 12v constant now after replacing that fuse then? if thats the case then you should be all set and i would remove the tap you put into the cigarette lighter, or buy another power outlet and run the wire you added to the new outlet. then youd have an extra outlet and all of that work wouldnt be wasted. wiring can be very frustrating until youve done it enough to become confident (usually confidence comes with having lots of problems and then learning how to use the basic testing tools to solve them). keep working at it, i know youll get this thing licked!