What oil weight do you recommend for a 3.0 V6 with 120K miles

[Rearanger]

Nobody can tout an oil without doing used oil analysis on their own vehicle. Promoting this viscosity or that or this brand or that means nothing more than uniformed opinion and not science. Thinner oils recommended by manufactures were engineered to perform in those engines by oil engineers - so you think you know better? Thicker is not necessarily better, especially when the newer engines have closer bearing clearances. Just try to get a high viscosity oil into a close tolerance bearing surface on a cold January morning. See how much harder it is for the engine to just turn over with thick oil in the crankcase on a cold morning. You may think that the higher pressure on the oil gauge when cold is doing the job when in fact it's flowing over the by-pass valve and not getting into the bearings, it may even be by-passing the oil filter. Pressure is a measurment of resistance to flow, not better lubrication. I've tried Amsoil and Redline and paying the extra money for those oils has not proven out in my used oil analysis. Right now I use
synthetic 0w oils as they flow better on start-up and lubricate great as well, based on the wear metals in my analysis reports. Oil pressure does not separate bearing surfaces, the engineered characteristics of the oil is what keeps the oil lubricating. Vehicles have oil pressure gauges to show flow because a flow gauge would be too expensive to use. But when you see higher pressure on the gauge it is just telling you that the resistance to flow is higher, not that oil is getting to the bearings, we just assume it is.

By the way, if you think you're confused now just go on the BOBISTHEOILGUY forum and see how all the "experts" can't agree, you'll really start to loose sleep worrying about your oil.

 

[creepinjeepster]

Castrol 5w-30 synthetic. Only thing I'll run in all my vehicles year round. Never any problems with it. My 67 commando is pushing 700,000, original motor and tranny. Still won't hesitate to pull the Ford up a hill.

 

[betomonroy]

10W-30 Motorcraft Synthetic Blend. It works for me.

 

[kcm1582]

10w-40 is a bit thick for a gas engine in the US. Ive been using 5w-30 for years. Used Pennzoil in my old Saturn and never had a problem. However since I got my truck, I've been using Motorcraft semi-synthetic and I gotta say it is pretty good oil. I change it every 5k miles. It is a little more expensive than conventional oil but for the way I drive its worth the extra money.

 

[Jason_J]

5w-20 Motorcraft, just like the service bulletin calls for.

 

[Frank The Tank]

10-40 Halvoline......... I use it in every vehicle I own. (used to use 15-40 but that stuff is nearly impossible to find around here now and all Halvoline is now "deposit shield")

My 2.3 has only had 15-40 and later 10-40 since 25k miles way back in 2001 and its racked up another 200k since and still gets driven daily with no leaks drips or smoke.... and I yanked the dip the other day just checking and it was light honey colored after 1k miles. (to give you an idea of how hard I am on it, it has a 5spd and I just had to put new tires on it after wearing the last pair down to wire in 20k miles over 14 months i have a thing for burnouts)

Frank

 

[bg@f.ord]

10/30

10/30.My vote

 

[McCormack]

10w30 in the winter, 10w40 in the summer. No worries.

 

[TomB1269]

Thinner oils recommended by manufactures were engineered to perform in those engines by oil engineers - so you think you know better?

Nope, But Ford seams too.......... In early 2000 (2001, 2002, etc not sure), Ford came out and change all its oil recommendations and stated that 5-20 was recommended in all engines, new models and older models with the exception of ONE MOTOR........The 4.0 Liter engine should continue to use either 10-30 or 5-30 (can't remember which). That they had found no issues with using the thinner oil in older motors and that they would benefit as well by having a slightly improved fuel milege. So I just can not agree with "Thinner oils recommended by manufactures were engineered to perform in those engines by oil engineers - so you think you know better?" Because FORD changed their minds after the engines were built.............. Again Oil type and weight (for the most part) are personal opinion. My dad swore by Quaker State and know someone else changes his oil, and its not quaker state. I used to be Valoline only, then bought a Ford requiring 5-20 (OEM / Warranty) and found 5-20 not to be as readily available in Valoline at the time, but could always seem to find Motorcraft, so I used it. The last 2 yrs I have had Oil changed by Jiffy Lube (Havoline I believe), but when I do it myself it Motorcraft, I do not know why I just do, and I have never used a NO Name or Store Brand........but it should be all the same. The partical counts and additives may not be the exact same, but I will guarantee if you can get that info (ususally a trade secret) you will find very little difference in their chemical / mixture specifications.