• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

where do I start?



A friend of my brother's was all about compression, actually built an engine that had 13:1 on "paper." He was disappointed when he tried to run it on pump gas. :icon_twisted:

Be reasonable with what you do. You can easily have 2 grand in putting a stock 5.0L into your truck. It's not so bad compared to other things, but there are other costs. If you don't have much money to work with, right now I would recommend setting a goal of just getting a stock engine in and running. Once you're happy with it and know where you stand, then start modding the engine so that it functions as you want it to. There are other factors like rear suspension, rear end, etc that will all need upgraded to handle that kind of power.

Actually get an engine, trans, do some reading in the tech library and start gather parts for the swap. Once you think you have all of it and have at it, I guarentee you that there will be more to buy.

Pete
 
A friend of my brother's was all about compression, actually built an engine that had 13:1 on "paper." He was disappointed when he tried to run it on pump gas. :icon_twisted:

Be reasonable with what you do. You can easily have 2 grand in putting a stock 5.0L into your truck. It's not so bad compared to other things, but there are other costs. If you don't have much money to work with, right now I would recommend setting a goal of just getting a stock engine in and running. Once you're happy with it and know where you stand, then start modding the engine so that it functions as you want it to. There are other factors like rear suspension, rear end, etc that will all need upgraded to handle that kind of power.

Actually get an engine, trans, do some reading in the tech library and start gather parts for the swap. Once you think you have all of it and have at it, I guarentee you that there will be more to buy.

Pete
I REALLY dont wanna run premium. gas is rediculous here. in the summer it goes to as high as $1.45.9 a liter. (i dunno what it is there but 6 bucks a gallon is retarded!!!)
If you think droppin a 5.0 and AOD outta stang for now til i start the motor build is a good idea i might have to agree. just gettin the basics of a 302 swap and learning how to make it all work, what weak areas there are, etc. I'm gonna start lookin for a donor car as soon as i can, but i wanna find something i know works, and whatnot.
 
Last edited:
ok found a 96 f150 efi with an AOD that i could have for , say, 800 bucks, maybe 700 if im nice. :Dhas 134000km's and looks pretty clean. sitting at the salvage yard, dunno whats gonna happen with it.
 
If the AOD is from a 96 then be careful because it could be an AOD-E. Which requires basically its own computer to run it. For your first swap to make it simple especially since its an 88 I say do this.

Get the motor and trans your looking at. Strip all the EFI stuff off and find a nice edelbrock or weiand low pro intake and about a 500cfm or so spreadbore carb. Preferably not a Holley. Then save all your eFI stuff in a corner until you build your motor and then go about putting it all back on.

For the first time just get a carb and swap it in.
 
If the AOD is from a 96 then be careful because it could be an AOD-E. Which requires basically its own computer to run it. For your first swap to make it simple especially since its an 88 I say do this.

Get the motor and trans your looking at. Strip all the EFI stuff off and find a nice edelbrock or weiand low pro intake and about a 500cfm or so spreadbore carb. Preferably not a Holley. Then save all your eFI stuff in a corner until you build your motor and then go about putting it all back on.

For the first time just get a carb and swap it in.
oooh. there was a tag on the bottom of the tranny and it said e something so it may have been one. in which case in order to run the AOD out of the f150 i would have to use all the electronics from the truck, which i dont wanna do. I've also been talkin to a lady about an 84 302 mustang, AOD which would for sure save time, as it already has a floor shift tranny, and theres also a guy with a crown vic for "offers", probably about 200 bucks. although this crown vic is cable shift and fuel injected although i could get a carb and intake and shifter for 65 bucks at the "u pull it" known as Bucks auto parts. im just sayin that cause ill say bucks somtime, its the biggest scrap yard around here

just outta curiosity why do you say "not a holley"
 
You really have to see a flat tappet camshaft after a lot of use to really appreciate a roller cam. Get a factory roller motor IMO. Unless you already have the non-roller 302, I can't think of any reason to not get one.

Pete

reasons not to get a roller
1 availability
2 lack of self adjusting hydro lifters... "quote from dad"
3 price, both in original cost and in build price
 
About the roller blocks, most people may not even realize that its a roller block when they sell it.

On an AOD, the transmission pan will read "ford" and "METRIC" in big letters. The AOD-E has a big plug on the right side. As far as the AOD, technically and supposedly its impossible to run with a carb since it uses a TV cable and not a simple kickdown cable. I have mine setup on my truck.

For the Roller cams they have to be set perfect since there is such a small area for the lifter to ride on versus the flat tappet cams.

I say no holley since I have never been able to get them adjusted right. Everybody has always said "oh go get a holley 4barrel! Its the best thing ever!" I say BullChit! I ran a proform 750 on my stroker forever basically and loved it. A holley with manual secondaries is okay. Thats what I have now. As for a holley with vacuum secondaries I say stay away. For the holley 2b they are mehhh.
 
Running a AOD with a Holley/Ford carb on a 351 in a 81 F100.Shifts better than any auto trans i can remember having.Has a kick down linkage.

If you think one Holley is a pain to tune....try 2 at once.You have to spend a lot of time with them but after you get the hang of it they work great.Edelbrock right out of the box are great carbs.............but they are not a Holley.
I guess it boils down to how much time you want to spend tuning the top end of your motor.
Just my 2.
 
For the Roller cams they have to be set perfect since there is such a small area for the lifter to ride on versus the flat tappet cams.

I say no holley since I have never been able to get them adjusted right. Everybody has always said "oh go get a holley 4barrel! Its the best thing ever!" I say BullChit! I ran a proform 750 on my stroker forever basically and loved it. A holley with manual secondaries is okay. Thats what I have now. As for a holley with vacuum secondaries I say stay away. For the holley 2b they are mehhh.
Another case of someone who knows little or nothing about roller cams and Holleys. :icon_rofl: Hydraulic rollers do not have to be "set perfect" to run. They're no harder to adjust the lifters than flat tappet cams are. As for Holleys, you obviously know little about them to say what you did. They're no harder to set, tune or adjust than any other carb. Once it's tuned, LEAVE IT THE HELL ALONE!!!!!! It will need no further adjusting for YEARS. If it seems to "out of tune", then chances are it's not the carb, but the ignition causing the problem.
 
reasons not to get a roller
1 availability
2 lack of self adjusting hydro lifters... "quote from dad"
3 price, both in original cost and in build price

1. Your Dad's wrong. There's tons of stuff and grinds available for hydraulic roller cams. 2. Wrong again. Everyone makes hydraulic roller lifters. 3. Wrong again, building a 302 , starting with a roller block is no more expensive than doing a flat tappet motor. In some cases it's cheaper. Slightly used Ford Racing B303 cams can be had for $50. The lifters can be used over and over again. They're good to 6000-6500 rpms and 200,000 miles. If you want more rpm capability with the stock setup, Crane and Comp both make better than stock O.E. style lifters. These are good to 7500.
 
1. Your Dad's wrong. There's tons of stuff and grinds available for hydraulic roller cams. 2. Wrong again. Everyone makes hydraulic roller lifters. 3. Wrong again, building a 302 , starting with a roller block is no more expensive than doing a flat tappet motor. In some cases it's cheaper. Slightly used Ford Racing B303 cams can be had for $50. The lifters can be used over and over again. They're good to 6000-6500 rpms and 200,000 miles. If you want more rpm capability with the stock setup, Crane and Comp both make better than stock O.E. style lifters. These are good to 7500.
ok. you must have had #1 confused. i didn't mean aftermarket availability, more finding one, in my area. for a decent price. 2. yes ive seen hydrolic rollers, but do they self adjust? just curious.
3. undeniably, a roller block is better to start with. but when your dad has 100 percent control, realistically, you do as he says, no ifs ands or buts. his tools his decision. however. im at a crossroads. winter is comin and a v8 2wd open diff ranger would be USELESS and anyone who thinks driving a v8 ranger on winter is ok, have fun with that. my truck in the next week or so either needs a new clutch or to be parked. if noone noticed i posted in the 4x4 systems area, about body swapping my truck to a T/Led 4x4 88 2.9 seeing as a 302 swap when we start talking about it starts looking more and more expensive, even if i get engine, tranny shifter, mounts, for under 400 bucks its still gonna be a 1000 dollar job. plus, its gonna take probably a week. i know that seems really short, but my dads best friend did a 302 ranger swap and with his help i think i t could be done and made work. now for about 250 bucks i could body swap my truck onto a new frame which is 4x4, and not have to do my clutch! i could even p[ut a new clutch in the 4x4 for less than the clutch is gonna cost here. its about 100 dollar job, if i have it done, i would do it myself but i cant afford to be out of a truck for a week and even when its done have NO money to fix all the other crap thats gone wrong. like how it runs like a chevy,(like a POS)
 
Hydraulic rollers do everything flat tappet hydraulic lifters do, and more. I cannot for the life of me figure why you can't find a core to start with. Damn around here you can pickup a factory reman shortblock for less than $500. I've built a motor with one as a foundation.
 
And one more thing, in case you're wondering: I'm 50 years old so I'm not some wet behind the ears kid giving you advice :D Hell I might be older than your Dad. :icon_confused:
 
And one more thing, in case you're wondering: I'm 50 years old so I'm not some wet behind the ears kid giving you advice :D Hell I might be older than your Dad. :icon_confused:

haha dunno, hes 51 in december.

and i believe you. i just dunno. 302's are actually pretty scarce right now, well at the places that dont hose the crap of you! ok, now to throw this whole thread at a new angle.m i brought home a beautiful 1988 ranger x cab 4x4 5 speed 2.9. paid 140 bucks, its totaled off but has a perfect hood and front fenders. now, i plan on body swapping my truck onto it, but it runs like a POS and the tranny whines like a sumbitch. although the T case is friggin wonderful! anyway, i wanna 302 swap the 4x4 and once its done body swap my truck onto the 4x4s frame. then worry about SAS it later down the road which im told is much easier to do on a current 4x4 than a 2wd because of frame differences.

WHOA! just noticede you in the stickies i think it was recently added, saw it in another forum! i read your conversions included a oil pan from a truck cut to fit. so when 4x4 302 swapping, what exacty did you do?! i wanna get a 5.0 to make work in my 88 ranger 4x4 but dont wanna star swapping and have to stop and hunt for an oil pan! also ill take some pics when i get out to sgi so i can find a good 302 and tranny /tcase combo that will fit good. if i choose to leave it EFI is there people on here who could help me figure out the wiring? im not very sure and even my dad said he wouldn't be able to do it all with out askin some friends
 
Last edited:
haha dunno, hes 51 in december.


WHOA! just noticede you in the stickies i think it was recently added, saw it in another forum! i read your conversions included a oil pan from a truck cut to fit. so when 4x4 302 swapping, what exacty did you do?! i wanna get a 5.0 to make work in my 88 ranger 4x4 but dont wanna star swapping and have to stop and hunt for an oil pan! also ill take some pics when i get out to sgi so i can find a good 302 and tranny /tcase combo that will fit good. if i choose to leave it EFI is there people on here who could help me figure out the wiring? im not very sure and even my dad said he wouldn't be able to do it all with out askin some friends

Me in the stickies doing conversions on 4x4's ? Got me mixed up with someone else.
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Special Events

Events TRS Was At This Year

TRS Events

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

TRS Latest Video

TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Sponsors


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Sponsored Ad

Back
Top