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Making My Own 3" BL


95XL

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 3, 2007
Messages
190
City
Fulton, NY
Vehicle Year
2002
Transmission
Automatic
Ok, not sure where to post this, but this is as good a place as any...
I've seen this dicussed before, but I need some answers. I'm looking to make a body lift out of hockey pucks, before you start to reply with "no don't do it" I will tell you that I am convinced after reading many posts that pucks are very capable of dealing with the extremes presented to them under the body of a vehicle. On that note... I need to know somethings about the PA body lift.

The shifter extension, which end of the shifter does it go on, the end inside the tranny, or the end that the shift knob goes on? Also, I have a manual transfer case, does that shifter need any sort of extension?

The bolts, I've seen the bolts that hold the bed to the frame, they're more of lag screws. What do the bolts that hold the cab to the frame look like? How many threads per inch, whats the length, and diameter?

Steering column extension? I've heard some people say it's needed, others say it isn't, whats the deal?

How many pads are needed for the total lift. I know there's six under the bed alone. So, how many are under the cab/front fenders?

Bumper lift brackets?

I know this is a lot of info that I need, but I've never got a good look at a body lift before, any help is greatly appreciated.
 
I know on my standard cab there are four body mounts right under the cab and two at the front of the core support. As for the bed I have no idea. That's what I know.
 
jeez just spend the 100 bucks and be done with it. really its not worth it to make it when you get front bumper brackets and all the bolts too
 
I would spend the money, except I'm studying machining in College, and I need a senior project. So...
 
The project could be installing it...... That'd probably cut it.
 
I would spend the money, except I'm studying machining in College, and I need a senior project. So...




dont use hocky pucks. take some 2" square tubing and cut it at 3 inches in length, then unbolt one body bolt, take it to a hardware store and buy bolts just like except 3 inches longer.

total cost-probaly less than 20 bucks, besides, drilling holes in hockey pucks is a pretty poor attempt at a senior project. and i had one hockey puck underneath each of my body mounts in a 2wd ranger and 2 ended up cracking in half. spending some more time on your senior project will look better too...
 
dont use hocky pucks. take some 2" square tubing and cut it at 3 inches in length, then unbolt one body bolt, take it to a hardware store and buy bolts just like except 3 inches longer.

total cost-probaly less than 20 bucks, besides, drilling holes in hockey pucks is a pretty poor attempt at a senior project. and i had one hockey puck underneath each of my body mounts in a 2wd ranger and 2 ended up cracking in half. spending some more time on your senior project will look better too...
no shit..how is drilling a hole in a hockey puck machining? at least make an attempt at being a machinist. and i dont think id do the square tubing thing unless i welded a 1/8 plate to the top and bottom first.then drill a hole through it
 
no shit..how is drilling a hole in a hockey puck machining? at least make an attempt at being a machinist. and i dont think id do the square tubing thing unless i welded a 1/8 plate to the top and bottom first.then drill a hole through it




oops, i forgot to add that part, the body lift i made and installed on my 76 f-250 was made like that and i capped both ends with 1/8'' plate steel.



if you want some extra credit you could weld a piece of round tubing to the inside of the plate steel on the top and bottom for some extra support and a spot for the body bolt to inhabit, just weld one end of it to the plate steel, insert it into the 2x2x3''long peice and weld the other half to it.




(wishes i had a way to draw pics for you, it would be so much easier...
 
Definately get the steering extension. As for the shifter, I never installed the extension works fine. You'll have to modify the shift boot so it doesn't bind on ya. I also had to cut some of the floor away so the manual transfer could engage freely.
 
Alright, thanks for the input guys. I get what your saying with the tubing welded on the inside of the 1/8" plates. I think I'll do that instead.






BTW, I wasn't only making the BL for my senior project, I have other things I'm making as well, just the BL is part of it.
 

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