My motor swap

[doorgunner]

eggzakly--oil pump, pick-up tube, gasket---you'd probably take less time pulling the engine back out & doing all that instead of laying on the concrete with ur arms all knotted up trying to put it together with a flashlight duct-taped to the side of your head cause you just accidentlly crushed the drop-light(not that i've ever done that myself) EDIT: Never mind--you splained it before i could hit the reply button---anybody know anything bout his torque converter nuts(my '93 came w/nuts)

 

[v-8power]

well i have to pull it rigth back out to finish cleang the firewall and finish yanking out the AC crap. im just trying to get my tranny member in place and my motor mount holes done. then itll be easy to put in and take it out

I see.

 

[83bagged]

well it come with nuts... but when i took them off they were VERY badly worn out... so i didnt wanna use them. frank sent my other pickup tube, so i should have it soon

 

[83bagged]

they said that the nuts were 3/8 NF? 3/8 national fine?

 

[doorgunner]

a 3/8 N.C. nut would have about 5 threads inside & a 3/8 N.F. would have uh-hmm about 9 smaller-looking threads in it

 

[83bagged]

well its gotta be the NF one then. they are tiney man.

im trying to mark where i need to drill for my motor mounts right now, ive been looking at where people have drilled and cant find any pics yet!

 

[baddad457]

Don't worry about where the others drilled. Get the motor/trans where you want it to be (typically as low and far back as you can) and get it centered between the fender edges, not the frame rails. Also centered in line from front to rear of the engine compartment with the transmission tailshaft pointed toward the pinion of the rearend. Then mark where the mount studs are touching the X-member. Lift everything back out and using a center punch, mark a point about 1/2" below the marks where the studs were touching, this allows for the movement downward of the mounts the distance of the stud length. Drill the stud holes, then bolt the mounts down. I then afterward drilled two more 3/8" holes per mount, using the existing holes in the mounts as guides. Then thru-bolted these holes with 3/8 bolts and lock nuts. To finish this jobs, also get a length of 7/16"NC threaded rod and cut four 2" long studs to insert into the motor mount holes in the block, retained with lock nuts. These are easier to stab into the mount holes than are bolts. If and when you pull the engine, leave the mounts in place

 

[83bagged]

is it possible to run oe of those 2" oil pressure gauges with the oil tem gauge in your cluster?

and also i was thinking of maybe swapping for a electric water pump. but how would i mount my alt with these brackets for v belt?

 

[83bagged]

ok wires....

that voltage regulator will go away, i guess that i can just clip off the wires in the harness and be fine? the green plug that is unplugged is what im worrying about. the other two that come out of the firewall that are plugged up are to the neutral safety switch and the rear lights i believe. and the ignition box will be staying since i am running a duraspark dist. (i have a new ignition box, will upgrade later)

this green one.

ok now this is where the ignition module box or whatever plugs up. and the two ring terminals went to the coil.

and then A CRAP LOAD of stupid sensors to the smog and vaccum crap.

now what all can i cut off and not worry about? i have a hayhnes manual but its hard for me to understand

 

[baddad457]

is it possible to run oe of those 2" oil pressure gauges with the oil tem gauge in your cluster?

and also i was thinking of maybe swapping for a electric water pump. but how would i mount my alt with these brackets for v belt?

You can run both gauge typs by using a "T" down at the oil pressure port. I've done the same with the temp gauges too. As for the electric waterpump, that's not a good idea. Most are made for 1/4 mile running. As for the wiring mess, you're on your own kid ! I went the simple route using a points distributor fitted with a Crane XR-1 unit. Two wires to hook up. And a third that went back to the fuel pump, by way of the impact switch on the passenger side floor board.

 

[83bagged]

You can run both gauge typs by using a "T" down at the oil pressure port. I've done the same with the temp gauges too. As for the electric waterpump, that's not a good idea. Most are made for 1/4 mile running. As for the wiring mess, you're on your own kid ! I went the simple route using a points distributor fitted with a Crane XR-1 unit. Two wires to hook up. And a third that went back to the fuel pump, by way of the impact switch on the passenger side floor board.

yea i figured out the t fitting. thanks dude, oh and thanks for those torque nuts bro!

on a c4 tranny the lever that shifts, all the way back towards the tailshaft is park, correct?

ok and on the wire. i have my starter wired, i can turn the key and it kicks on and off perfectly! i took ALOT of time and did it right alos. heat shrink, solder, braided covering... run right and clamped down, looks VERY good.

i have the ignition box figured out, it just plugs right in... and theres one wire coming from that green plug that goes to the coil, i guess thats the only one i have to keep? i dont have any of those other sensors or crap

 

[baddad457]

Adjust the transmission linkage starting with Neutral.(this according to my transmission guy) Park is all the way back, if the transmission linkage lever is on top(floor shift model), all the way forward if it's on bottom (column shift).

 

[83bagged]

rightm ok well i was just making sure.


ok now what all plugs do i need to keep? i only see one that comes from that green plug to the coil, the rest go to random sensors and crap...
any ideas?

 

[baddad457]

Damnifiknow

 

[baddad457]

I tucked the wiring I didn't use up and out of the way on mine. Not knowing at that time if I'd ever need the stuff later on, I figured to let sleeping dogs lie. That was 8 years ago.