Still having problems....

[turbo cat]

the ticking can also been worn pushrods which are known to wear out quickly

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

except the sound only occures intermittantly. worn pushrods are usually a pretty constant ticking.

 

[BlackBII]

^ Yup

And I know that all too well lol

 

[sweetwaterbroncoII]

I bought the engine from the guy who had the BII....it had been sitting for about two years before I bought...

 

[sweetwaterbroncoII]

Thats what is confusing me.....if it happened 100% of the time I would think it was the push rods or maybe the cam bearings gone bad, but it only happens every so often and if you let it sit for 20 mins or so it cures the problem temp....until you drive it again for 30 mins.

 

[HndMeDnBroncoII]

Thats what is confusing me.....if it happened 100% of the time I would think it was the push rods or maybe the cam bearings gone bad, but it only happens every so often and if you let it sit for 20 mins or so it cures the problem temp....until you drive it again for 30 mins.

did ur mechanic ever check the o2 sensor because they dont send operational signals to the ecu till the engine is warm and if u shut the truck off that would put the sensor mode from open to closed loop
wicked does that make sense

 

[sweetwaterbroncoII]

No I doubt he did....would that cause the problem I'm having?

 

[HndMeDnBroncoII]

No I doubt he did....would that cause the problem I'm having?

it might but double check with wicked he can probasbly explain it better and ask to to run through the paper clip procedure

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

i dont see how a bad O2 sensor would cause the problem described even if the computer didnt pick up on it.

and the timing doesnt match up. it only takes a few minutes of driving a cold engine for it to go into closed loop, so if it was a bad O2 it should start ticking just a few minutes after starting. and letting the engine sit for 30 minutes isnt enough time for the block to cool off...it will go into closed loop almost immediatly after restarting.

 

[sweetwaterbroncoII]

Thanks wicked....I was looking at this gauge I'm going to install....where at on the engine block does the adapter screw on?

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

the pressure fitting is on the drivers front corner of the block. if you want to retain your factory gauge operation, you'll need a 1/4" NPT "T" to screw both the stock and aftermarket gauges into.

 

[sweetwaterbroncoII]

I don't need the facftory gauge though do I after I install the new one? Are those factory gauges known to screw up and flip out?

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

you dont need it....it'll just sit there on the low side of the scale. if that doesnt bother you then leave it. i "T"'d mine just for the looks.

the factory gauges are as reliable as an electrical gauge can be...they arent particularly known for failure but they can and do...

 

[sweetwaterbroncoII]

I guess the local parts store would have that "T"? Thanks wicked....you've been a lot of help....you are extremely knowledgeable....I appreciate your help!

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

most parts stores should have it in stock. if not, a local plumbing or hydraulic shop will.

needs one male and 2 female ends.