Project: Moose-Knuckle

[LittleBigFoot]

I think having three of the three bolts for the PS box instead of 2/3 would be a good start too.

Grade 46?

 

[LittleBigFoot]

The power steering box is firm to the frame with maybe 1/16 of an inch play turning at a dead stop. Mitch and I are fabbing up a brace to run off the four bolts near the worm gear adjustment utilizing the shackle crossmember and new engine crossmember.

She tracks down the road just fine. Steering is tight and NO BUMP STEER even hittin pot holes at 50 with no shocks. A bit of vibration from not round wheels, swampers that needed close to a pound of sticky weights, and a home brew rear drive shaft. The lower and upper shock mounts are fabbed and ready for the hoops to be welded to the chassis.

I'm still looking for a cheap substitute for a front drive shaft. The Chevy mitch and i were working on used a cv style that lead to a yoke. I'm looking into this. I have a few front drive shafts laying around and I'll see what I can come up with.

In the next few days I'll be routing my exhaust up through the bed, and gathering parts for the cowell box snorkle. With January's pay I'll be buyin dom and square for sliders and a new rear bumper/hitch/kick ass lookin metal thing.

I've also got plans for a stinger winch bumper.

All and all she's street able and a damn smoothe ride up till 40 mph. The 3/4 ton leaf pack is perfect. In the future I'm considering fabbing some longer shackles and pulling a leaf. Along with either taller shackles or a 4" block to replace my 2" block and give the truck a level stance.

Rockin'

 

[PaleBlue90]

sounds like shits lookin up, hopefully u and mitch will be able to wheel with me this spring when mines finished

 

[LittleBigFoot]

Pirate can personally lick my taint as they stroke my shaft.

Mitch and I forklift flexed the truck today.

19" travel in the front
21" travel in the rear

We measured the amount of droop when up on a hydrolic lift + the amount from the tire to the fender stuffed from normal ride height. **** yeah.

Candy:

Woods makes a front cv to u joint conversion for the BW1354 I'm gonna pick up and fab a front drive shaft. Then it's finally welding my shock hoops. I plan on going to a 4" block in the rear to level the truck out. Just waitin for the cash for the blocks and shims and u bolts.

 

[LittleBigFoot]

Oh, and officially 200 miles on the new axles and lift with no major problems besides ripping off a power steering box and a massive leak I can't find.

I took her up to 55 today and she was smooooothe except the oval wheels and home made drive shaft.

 

[mhughes165]

 

[PaleBlue90]

holy hell thats great. im very impressed adam

 

[mhughes165]

holy hell thats great. im very impressed adam

hey....its big and black just like adams moose knuckle....

 

[crawlin91]

adam, truck looks damn good with those full width axles. and with plenty of flex it should perform just as good.
Im liking my lift but it doesnt flex much in the front end. I will be picking up some extended radius arms soon to remedy that. I will probably swap the pumpkin over to the spare axle beams I got. Those stock arms were hell to remove, finally gave up ask oatmealman what a pain in the ass that front end was. I definately see a SAS in my future.

 

[LittleBigFoot]

My moose knuckle is big, black, and dirty. It goes through a lot of rubber. It may not be pretty but it's functional. I can carry a lot in it. I can fit 5 in it. It's warm in the winter. It gets a lot of air in the summer. Every one's seen it. I get attention in it. It's just like my real moose knuckle.

 

[BeaterMan]

man that is an awsome looking truck Do you have any plans for body protection or anything to minimize body damage offroad?

 

[LittleBigFoot]

I'm doin a sub-exo cage.

I'm building a stinger/winch bumper. One of the pieces of dom will wrap under the head lights and follow the curve of the fenders and tie into the sliders. Same for the rear. I figure it's a good start for an exo if I decide to go that way, and it'd be pretty simple and sick.

I'll also be fabbing up flat belly skid plate out of some hefty ass plate. Nothing but the tranny cross member hangs below the frame now, (besides the drive shaft) so I'm going to do the best I can to protect everything.

My new engine cross member uses existing bolt wholes from the IFS bull shit. I'm going to bolt some plate running from that to the front/shackle crossmember, and cut out room for the pitman arm to turn but that should help protect the oil pan and vital shit.

Thanks for the complements guys.


And Carl, wheel your shit before you upgrade. Those TTB lift coils arre gonna be pretty stiff till you brake them in. A lot of guys run jeep XJ coils. Too bad I just sold a set of 6.5" xj lift coils. Soft as hell.


I'm feelin a CO ride commin up soon.

Oh, and I'll be making an appearence at the rock zombies winter fest.

 

[oatmealman]

Carl for extended arms just cut your old ones in half and weld some dom in between the cuts walla.Instant cheap extended radius arms.Then instead of putting the rubber bushings back on run heims at the end and it'll be crazy flexy.It what you should do first though it put xj coils in the front.They are softer and will allow it to flex like mad.Then when you out wheel the ttb think about going to sas.

 

[PaleBlue90]

ill be trying to make it at the rock zombie winter fest lol

 

[86ford]

adam, truck looks damn good with those full width axles. and with plenty of flex it should perform just as good.
Im liking my lift but it doesnt flex much in the front end. I will be picking up some extended radius arms soon to remedy that. I will probably swap the pumpkin over to the spare axle beams I got. Those stock arms were hell to remove, finally gave up ask oatmealman what a pain in the ass that front end was. I definately see a SAS in my future.

PM me when you have the cash to do jeep coils and longer radius arms. i HIGHLY recommend dual shocks up front with jeep coils if you spend much time on the road. i will give you a list of CHEAP stuff to buy for your coil swap.

86