Two quick amp questions.

[koda6966]

The two little lines are the white/red audio jacks. Image got a tad smaller than I expected.

1) Do I have the basic understanding of how to wire this up or am I missing something?

2) Can I put a switch in for the amp to turn it on/off when I want bass or none?

I'll be using this amp probably..

Make that three questions..

3) How many watts/ohms should I look for when purchasing subs for this amp if I go with two tens, or one twelve?

 

[rat_ranger]

1) you do not need to put a switch in the power wire. and dont forget to use a ground the same size as the power wire.

2) you have the remote wire run to the amp from the head unit that turns it on and off. you can put a switch in it to turn in off when you do not want it.

3) get one GOOD ten. like soundsplinter, ascendant audio, addictive audio, digital designs audio, ETC. it is probably a 4ohm amp so go with a 4ohm sub, or if itll run 2ohm stable get a dual voice coil 4ohm sub and wire it in series IIRC to get it to 2ohm

 

[Pistons23]

all you need to do is run power straight from the battery to an inline fuse. from there it goes straight to the battery. next youll need to ground that sucker. make sure you ground it to bare metal and make the ground as short as possible. then you connect the remote wire. it usually connects to the blue wire on your deck. it automatically turns on your amp when the headunit is powered. you might be able to turn the sub off through the deck if it has subwoofer controls.

post some specs of that amp and ill tell you what voice coil configurations you can look for to get the most out of that amp.

 

[koda6966]

1) you do not need to put a switch in the power wire. and dont forget to use a ground the same size as the power wire.
2) you have the remote wire run to the amp from the head unit that turns it on and off. you can put a switch in it to turn in off when you do not want it.
3) get one GOOD ten. like soundsplinter, ascendant audio, addictive audio, digital designs audio, ETC. it is probably a 4ohm amp so go with a 4ohm sub, or if itll run 2ohm stable get a dual voice coil 4ohm sub and wire it in series IIRC to get it to 2ohm

Well, I'd much rather have a pair of okay tens than one good ten, because if it gets stolen the cheap tens are less of a loss than the good tens.

all you need to do is run power straight from the battery to an inline fuse. from there it goes straight to the battery. next youll need to ground that sucker. make sure you ground it to bare metal and make the ground as short as possible. then you connect the remote wire. it usually connects to the blue wire on your deck. it automatically turns on your amp when the headunit is powered. you might be able to turn the sub off through the deck if it has subwoofer controls.
post some specs of that amp and ill tell you what voice coil configurations you can look for to get the most out of that amp.

I wanted a switch put in so that I could turn the amp and subs off when I don't want bass, my HU lacks bass controls. I just want to know if it would be okay running it on the power wire, or if I should run it on the blue wire (forgot to include in the diagram).

Here's the specs from Walmart.

# Specifications:

* Output power (4 Ohm, <=1% THD): 125 Watts x 2
* Output power (4 Ohm bridged, <=1% THD): 380 Watts x 1
* Output power (2 Ohm, <=1% THD): 190 Watts x 2
* Signal to noise (1 Watt into 4 Ohms): 75 dBA
* Dynamic power (4 Ohm): 130 Watts
* Peak music power: 760 Watts
* Number of channels: 2
* Load impedance capability: 2~8 Ohm (Stereo); 4~8 Ohm (Bridged)
* Continuous power (4 ohm): 125W x 2
* Continuous power (2 ohm): 190W x 2
* Continuous power bridged (4 ohm): 380W x 1
* Frequency response: 10Hz ~ 50kHz
* Total harmonic distortion: 0.015%
* Signal-to-noise ratio: >95dB
* Dimensions: 11-13/16" x 2-3/8" x 13-1/8"

I'm buying cheap stuff from Walmart because I don't need a boom tomb, just some good base for my industrial/techno and occasional rap.

 

[exbass94]

I wanted a switch put in so that I could turn the amp and subs off when I don't want bass, my HU lacks bass controls. I just want to know if it would be okay running it on the power wire, or if I should run it on the blue wire (forgot to include in the diagram).

It'd be much easier to put the switch on the blue wire.

 

[Psychopete]

It'd be much easier to put the switch on the blue wire.

That's also known as the remote,

Koda, you'd never put a switch inline of something pulling THAT much current, you'll simply burn up the switch. For other applications, a relay would suffice - BUT,

There is a "remote" wire comes off the deck, and the amp has it's own internal mechanism to turn the amp on once it's gets a signal from the remote. The amp has +12v and ground at all times.

If you want to turn it off or on, add a switch to the low current remote wire.

Fuse is ALWAYS closest to the battery so that if comes into a direct short, it can blow. Otherwise, if you have it after the short nearest to the amp, it will never blow and just be a constant direct short.

You'll probably want 4 ohm speakers and a 2 ohm stable amp so you can safely bridge it with out grenading the amplifier.

Pete

Just went over the specs, looks like it's only 4 ohm stable bridged, but that's all entirely opinion.

 

[Pistons23]

here are a few options to wire some subs to get a 2 ohms load on that amp you mentioned above.

youd need to look for subs with 2ohm dual voice coils

or subs that are 4ohm single voice coils

since you wanted a pair of 10's, they should do fine with 190 watts per sub. not going to set alarms off but will be pretty nice inside the cab. good luck

 

[koda6966]

That's also known as the remote,
Koda, you'd never put a switch inline of something pulling THAT much current, you'll simply burn up the switch. For other applications, a relay would suffice - BUT,
There is a "remote" wire comes off the deck, and the amp has it's own internal mechanism to turn the amp on once it's gets a signal from the remote. The amp has +12v and ground at all times.
If you want to turn it off or on, add a switch to the low current remote wire.
Fuse is ALWAYS closest to the battery so that if comes into a direct short, it can blow. Otherwise, if you have it after the short nearest to the amp, it will never blow and just be a constant direct short.
You'll probably want 4 ohm speakers and a 2 ohm stable amp so you can safely bridge it with out grenading the amplifier.
Pete
Just went over the specs, looks like it's only 4 ohm stable bridged, but that's all entirely opinion.

Thanks Pete & Exbass. I was asking if I should put it on the blue one and looks like that's a yes. And fuse near battery.. I'll remember that.

 

[Bob Ayers]

1) you do not need to put a switch in the power wire. and dont forget to use a ground the same size as the power wire.

2) you have the remote wire run to the amp from the head unit that turns it on and off. you can put a switch in it to turn in off when you do not want it.

3) get one GOOD ten. like soundsplinter, ascendant audio, addictive audio, digital designs audio, ETC. it is probably a 4ohm amp so go with a 4ohm sub, or if itll run 2ohm stable get a dual voice coil 4ohm sub and wire it in series IIRC to get it to 2ohm

You wire the 2 4 ohm voice coils in PARALLEL, not SERIES to get 2 OHMS.

 

[Jason]

If no one mentioned it, put the fuse as close to the battery as space will allow.

 

[koda6966]

You wire the 2 4 ohm voice coils in PARALLEL, not SERIES to get 2 OHMS.

You know, you just made this whole thing make sense to me. I never thought to think of it in Digital Electronics standards. Now I'm imagining it in my head built up on the circuit maker program at school. Yeah, I'll be able to hand draw it up sometime.

 

[rat_ranger]

You wire the 2 4 ohm voice coils in PARALLEL, not SERIES to get 2 OHMS.

Thanks for correcting me. I I wasnt sure even though I just installed a sub in my truck a few days ago.