Aftermarket trailer hitch refinishing question


Li'l Work Truck

Did you turn it off and back on again?

GMRS Radio License
Joined
Dec 4, 2025
Messages
621
Points
101
City
Pendleton
State - Country
SC - USA
Vehicle Year
2008
Vehicle
Ford Ranger
Drive
2WD
Engine
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Manual
Total Lift
0
Total Drop
0
Tire Size
235/70 R15
My credo
Complacemcy is the key by which tyrrany opens many doors.
I have a U-Haul hitch on my Ranger.

Aftermarket trailer hitch refinishing question

Aftermarket trailer hitch refinishing question


Told you I had a hitch. Anyway, I thought I might try to remove the rust and use something a little bit more durable to coat the receiver. I thought about powdercoat, but I've heard that it can chalk and flake off. I thought about bedliner, but my concern there is how thick the coating is and whether that renders the ball mount unusable. Then there's the old school, 🦆 it and RustOleum the thing after a coat of rust converter, then just hit it again if the rust comes back.

I'm overthinking it, but have you met me? 🤪
 
I would go with Rick's method of using the brush on rustoleum possibly thinned some so you can get in the nooks and crannies and just spot treat later... I need to stock up on some different color options, spray paint is just so short term and unreliable as I'm finding out...

Keep it minimal in the socket, well check a hitch insert in there first to make sure it isn't tight to start with... they're not all the same and some are super tight to start with...
 
I would go with Rick's method of using the brush on rustoleum possibly thinned some so you can get in the nooks and crannies and just spot treat later... I need to stock up on some different color options, spray paint is just so short term and unreliable as I'm finding out...

Keep it minimal in the socket, well check a hitch insert in there first to make sure it isn't tight to start with... they're not all the same and some are super tight to start with...
Thanks! I didn't consider that the receiver might be a tight fit. I haven't come across one personally where that was an issue. I'll stick my ball mount in there and see what the fit looks like.
 
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Electro-descale

I've worn the carbon plates in mine out several times.
 
Tell me more.

Mine is a 55 gal drum cut along it's side, and an ebay stick welder for a power supply.

Yes I understand that if I get shocked by mine I'll probably die. Is what it is. 🙂

I use carbon/graphite plates for my anodes. Cheap on ebay, get them at least 1/2in thick. Bolt through side of plastic drum and wired up with scrap romex.

I've done entire engines like this in steel 55 gallon drums, and used the entire drum as an anode. Works extremely well.
 
Personally, I would not coat the male and female sliding parts or ball with anything. It's just going to rub off in use. Rustoleum is plenty good enough for me for the rest of it.
 
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Personally, I would not coat the male and female sliding parts or ball with anything. It's just going to rub off in use. Rustoleum is plenty good enough for me for the rest of it.
I would absolutely not coat the ball, except for maybe a light film of dielectric grease to assist in grounding.
 
I would absolutely not coat the ball, except for maybe a light film of dielectric grease to assist in grounding.
Dielectric grease is an insulator. You could use cobductive grease. But, I must say that stuff gets all over you like anti-seize.

The reason dielectric grease is used so popularly with electrical connectors is to lubricate the seals and keep water out. Since it is non-conductuve, it won't short across contacts or to ground if you get sloppy with it. But should not purposefully put it on the actual contacts.

dielectric on the left / conductive on the right
Aftermarket trailer hitch refinishing question
 
For me, greasing the ball would just increase wear. It would just attract dust, dirt and debris.
 
Dielectric grease is an insulator. You could use cobductive grease. But, I must say that stuff gets all over you like anti-seize.

The reason dielectric grease is used so popularly with electrical connectors is to lubricate the seals and keep water out. Since it is non-conductuve, it won't short across contacts or to ground if you get sloppy with it. But should not purposefully put it on the actual contacts.

dielectric on the left / conductive on the right
View attachment 145097
I didn't know that! Thanks for the info, @Curious Hound.
For me, greasing the ball would just increase wear. It would just attract dust, dirt and debris.
Ever since I drove truck, I've greased my balls. Um... My trailer balls... It helped a lot with 5th wheel plates (it's actually required), so I figured it would help there. I usually wipe the mount on the trailer out every so often. I see where you're coming from, though. It probably isn't necessary - I mean, the row of trucks at the Waffle House have their balls out, and they're not greased...
 
You guys below the mason dixon have it too easy. Goop up the receiver with whatever grease you have on hand and leave the hitch in there to explode kneecaps monthly.
 
I'm thinking if you really wanna do something there. Teflon chain lube aerosol. Thin layers, dries clear, doesn't trap nearly as much dust, and most importantly is cheap.

 
You guys below the mason dixon have it too easy. Goop up the receiver with whatever grease you have on hand and leave the hitch in there to explode kneecaps monthly.
My ball-greasing habits are random. However, in the Superduty, the drawbar is almost always in the hitch, just to make that 500ft long truck an extra 8" longer. "Be all you can be." :taunt:
 

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