Official A4LD Problem Thread!


I edited my last post #435 in this thread.
I had let my phone miss spell two words.
And I didn't notice them when I did my proof reading before I sent it.

It's easier to understand now.
 
@SenorNoob
Thank you for the verification.
I appreciate it very much.

@ford4wd08
Thank you as well for the information you gave as well.
I appreciate it as well.

I've never tried to adjust any bands on any transmission or do pretty much anything to them besides take one out and put one in.

I broke some apart so I could take the aluminum and the short steal to the junkyard and it be separated so I get more money.
But that's all I know about the insides of a transmission.

I have some confidence in doing mechanical things to my vehicles.
But I'm not confident enough in my abilities to try and do anything on the internals of a transmission.

I'm a hands on learner.
If I had someone standing there with me showing me and teaching me what I'm doing then I'd be willing to try it.
But I don't have that opportunity.

I'm willing to try doing things in my transmission like adjusting the bands and other things that have been mentioned.

However with that said I don't want to take the chance of tearing something up and not having the means to replace it. Because I don't have the confidence that I won't tare something up. So I want the means to be able to replace it as I already mentioned.

I'm still jobless so once I get a job and have caught up on my bills, electric, gas, and so on, I will then start saving a little money to be able to invest into my truck.

I will start with the vacuum modulator and after replacing that see what I get.

I have to be honest with myself and everyone else I have been financially abusing my truck and the car that I drive.

I would like to change that once I get employed and my bills caught up.

Thank you guys for your help and everyone else for the help they have given me.

I will post an update when I have one.

Band adjustment is very easy. You can't mess anything up unless you physically push the band bolts into the transmission case. Just don't take the lock nuts off all the way and you won't have any issues.

It can be performed while transmission is in the vehicle and only requires two wrenches to do.

Here is a good YouTube video on how to do it.

 
@ford4wd08
Thank you very much for the video.
I'm leaving my brother's house now that I'm using wi-fi.
I will watch the video tomorrow.
Afterwards I well give you my thoughts on it.

Thanks again.

Until tomorrow everyone.
 
@ford4wd08
My brother Larry and I watch that video.
After watching the video and seeing how easy it actually is to do the band adjustment.
I believe that it is not above my skill level.
As long as I'm very very careful when I do it.
Once I change the vacuum the module and see how that goes.
If I feel that the vacuum module did do some difference but yet things ain't working the way I believe they should I will very carefully try adjusting the bands on my own.

Thank you very much once again @ford4wd08 .
 
@ford4wd08
My brother Larry and I watch that video.
After watching the video and seeing how easy it actually is to do the band adjustment.
I believe that it is not above my skill level.
As long as I'm very very careful when I do it.
Once I change the vacuum the module and see how that goes.
If I feel that the vacuum module did do some difference but yet things ain't working the way I believe they should I will very carefully try adjusting the bands on my own.

Thank you very much once again @ford4wd08 .

Do not lose the pin behind the vacuum modulator. It is critical it is there so the modulator can do its job.
 

Attachments

  • Official A4LD Problem Thread!
    Screenshot 2026-02-04 132349.png
    373.3 KB · Views: 77
@ford4wd08
Thank you for that information as well.

I will be very careful when I change out the vacuum modulator.

Thanks once again.
 
I have updated my first post about my transmission problem in this thread.
Post number 430.

I've added a lot to it.

Thank you everyone for your help and all that you do for me and everyone else you help.
 
Hello! First post in this problem thread, but I thought I'd add on to the Vacuum modulator conversation and ask what brand of modulator everyone is using and if it worked correctly? '94 with a 3.0 and I have tried using the ATP brand modulator as well as the Pioneer branded one and neither of them have allowed me to get out of first gear even with adjustment of that stupid little screw.
I have seen a few people in various places on the internet have success with the Fram FM2336 part and I have located one on eBay since it's discontinued, but trying to locate a new OEM replacement seems to be impossible since it seems they no longer exist. Anyone know either how to adjust one to make the transmission actually shift when it's supposed to or one that works fresh out of the box with no adjusting? I made sure the rod got put back when I put the new one in, however it still refused to shift out of first.
 
@ActuallyaMazda ,
I 1st. want to welcome you to TheRangerStation family.

2nd. I got to say I feel that your post was wrote very well and it covered everything nicely.

3rd.
Now to all the help I can give you.

My brother bought the vacuum modulator that I put on my transmission.

I asked him for the part number and RockAuto is not letting him find it.
We do know he got it from RockAuto though.
We think the part number is:
ATP FX226.

My truck's transmission is still not working right.
When I put it onto drive I have to push the gas to get it to engaged the gear.
It does the same thing when I put it into reverse.
When I try to drive the truck to get the transmission to shift gears I have to get the RPM's up around 2500 to 3500 and then let off the gas and let the RPM's drop to around 1500 RPMs then the transmission will shift.

I tried adjusting the bands but I don't know if I did that correctly it may have given me a little bit of help but I'm not sure.

At this point I'm just letting my truck sit where it is.
I know if I'm not trying to drive it I'm not tearing it up.

I wish you luck.
And hope that you will be able to enjoy your truck soon.
 
Hey yall, my transmission has had a few weird issues for a bit. It will stay in neutral and not engage gears when starting cold, unless I rev the engine pretty hard, then it'll engage. Whenever I make a hard turn or have a bump or have an incline, it'll try and pop out of gear. Gotta rev the engine again. If I'm at a light too long, sometimes it'll slip out of gear.

These problems get better when the transmission warms up, and used to go away completely. I'd assumed it was due to me having overfilled it the last time, so I changed the fluid. Checked for metal, color, it was completely normal. Maybe a little darker than new bright red, but overall nothing to report. I refilled it to where it says on the dipstick, and the problems have gotten slightly worse since then.

Things I think might be an issue: vacuum modulator (would explain the throttle fix, because more vacuum added), added too much stop slip, or dipstick incorrect and I need to severely overfill. Any of yall have any ideas? To get to the modulator I've gotta saw off my cat (it's completely frozen and a 2000lbft impact couldnt get it loose), so I'd prefer not to unless there's a good way to diagnose or if this is a known issue.
 
I can comment on getting the cats off.

This is long and for that I'm sorry.
I'm sure if you talk to anyone else that has read my post or been in any threads that I'm in they will tell you that I have a tendency to write books.


I had to take my transmission out a while back to change the front seal that the torque converter slides past to go into the transmission.
I've had problems with my transmission every sense.

In doing the removal of my transmission I had to take the Y-Pipe off along with the catalytic converters.
When I was trying to get the nuts off the studs on the exhaust manifolds to get my Y-pipe off I broke the studs.
So I had to take my exhaust manifolds off the motor and drill out the stud holes and so on and so forth. I'm sure you understand that process.

Once I had the Y-pipe disconnected from the manifold it gave me more room to get to all the bolts on the catalytic converters.
I then used a sawzall to cut the bolts for the joint between the catalytic converters and the Y-pipe.
You have to be very careful but you can cut the bolts in the space where the gasket is between the y-pipe and the catalytic converter pipe.
Don't cut too far into the space between the Y-pipe and the catalytic converters because the Y-pipe or catalytic converter can't remember exactly which one has a piece of pipe that slides inside the pipe that's on the other pipe..

In the process of me doing what all I've done to my truck I learned a few tricks here and there.

I am not ever going to try to take the nuts off the studs on the exhaust manifolds for the Y-pipe ever again.

I will cut the pipe in a straight line a few inches away from where it connects to the exhaust manifolds on the straightest part of the pipe.

Then when I'm ready to reassemble I will take a piece of pipe that slides right over the pieces of Y-pipe that was one piece when I cut it.

Then I will use some clamps and put it back together. And then wham-o bam-o there we go, the Y-pipe is back together.

Now I will tell you that when I got the three bolts connecting the Y-pipe and the catalytic converter I then had to drill those holes out because I couldn't get the bolt out.
Because they had been there for so long and had never been changed or anything. It was pretty much like they was welded in place.

As for the two bolts, nuts and springs that connects the catalytic converters to the extension pipe.
I cut those two with the sawzall as well, because I couldn't get them to come apart with my socket and wrench.
However I didn't have to cut or drill those holes out because once the bolts were cut they came out real easy.

Once I put everything back together as I already said my transmission has enacted right since.
After the seal popped I had the baby my truck home and I think I tore something up internally when I was babying at home.

Anyways I figured out that my vacuum modulator was bad as well. So I then had to go through the task of taking my catalytic converters back out.
I once again disconnected the Y-pipe so I could lower the Y-pipe, catalytic converters joint down so I can get to all three of the bolts and nuts making that joint.

Once I changed my vacuum modulator and was reassembling the catalytic converters joints, I left the top bolt and nut on the catalytic converter to Y-pipe joint out.
Once I started my truck the exhaust was no louder with that bolt and nut out then it had been before I took it out.
I'm leaving that boat nut out so I no longer have to drop my Wi-Fi to get the white pipe catalytic converter joint apart.

I'm sorry to everyone for once again writing a book.

@BoomTexan I wish you luck and hope that you will be able to enjoy your truck completely soon.
 

Sponsored Ad

TRS Events & Gatherings

Latest posts

Featured Rangers

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

TRS Latest Video

Official TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram


Product Suggestions

Back
Top