93 Splash in SC, V8-Swap version


Defibrillator!? Hope your ticker fixes itself. Take it easy..

Cool to see the swap moving along nicely!
Thank you.
 
Dang brake hose!!!!! I had been watching that thing faithfully all the way back from whatever state it broke in and for months afterward. The hose stayed away from the tire and everything was good. Until...

About 4 miles from home while returning from cardio rehab this morning. Yes, Justin, I did stop "eventually". And my tool rolls are in the snooperduty. Only tools I had were a small pocket knife, an 8" C-clamp and a front hub socket that helped overcome the swivel action of the C-clamp pad.

20260506_104011.jpg
 
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And the day doesn't get any better. Started preparing to assemble the timing cover and water pump on the frint of my the 5.0l. Got all the gasket surfaces wiped clean and dry. Then started trying to figure out which bolt goes where. That's a puzzle because almost every hole takes a different length bolt and some of them have studs sticking out past the head for something else to attach with a nut. I never dud find a complete exact set of replacement bolts. So, yeah, it's a puzzle. But that isn't the issue. When dry fitting the new water pump to the timing cover, I found out the impeller hits the back of the cavity. I need to create more than 0.020" of additional clearance. I left a voicemail with the manufacturer asking if the impeller is pressed on or threaded on and whether or not this is something I can adjust.
93 Splash in SC, V8-Swap version
93 Splash in SC, V8-Swap version
 
I wouldn't worry about it, it will quit rubbing eventually. :icon_thumby:

Were you dry fitting with a gasket?
 
Were you dry fitting with a gasket?
Yes. Considerung double gasket. But I don't like that idea. Could also buy thicker material and make a gasket.

Now that I think about it, the gasket I used was from a set of FelPro front end gaskets. But another came with the water pump. I could measure and see if that one is thicker. But I don't think it is.
 
I would not double gasket. A windsor water pump is not a can of worms you want to mess with.
 
Just ordered the brake hose from WalMart. Less than $20 for one side (left or right?). Over $34 for the other side. I ordered 2 of the cheaper ones so I'll have a spare. It doesn't matter which side, because the mounting bracket gets removed anyway.

When I installed the hose previously, I had a little clip on it that was zip=tied to the coil spring to keep it away from the tire. Clip is still on the hose. zip-tie is gone. I need to order some zip-ties that have the metal locking tang.
 
Speaking of exhaust manifolds, I removed the Y-pipe studs today. I've been soaking them with penetrating oil for over 4 weeks. 3 came out easy when I put the impact on the clamping nuts. The last one, only the nut came off. Used the induction heater and eventually persuaded the last stud to spin out.

I also worked on my new steering wheel. It didn't come with a key. So I carefully drilled the cylinder out. No damage. It should be easy to install a new cylinder after I clean and lubricate everything. The cruise control buttons are wired differently than I need for the 96 cruise servo. So I studied that for a while. It looks like all I have to do is reverse 2 of the slip ring connections and splice a 1,000 ohm resistor into the wire coming from the "on" button. Should be easy. With no airbag in the way, there is lots of room for wiring in the center of this steering wheel. Another win for owning OLD shitboxes.

Back of steering wheel center cover
View attachment 141996

Exhaust with y-pipe connections removed.
View attachment 141997
With those same manifolds i made a Y-pipe with 2 90*s and 2 45*s, a stamped Y and some v-bands.
93 Splash in SC, V8-Swap version

93 Splash in SC, V8-Swap version


93 Splash in SC, V8-Swap version
 
That looks good. I've been thinking I can do something similar with off-the-shelf parts and maybe even sections of my old y-pipes cut up to fit. I'm going to do a dual exhaust. So I don't need the Y piece. Also, I see you have no front drive shaft to work around. You poor lucky dog.

That dang driveshaft is a PITA

With your lift you should have a little more room than I did though.
 
Its tucked up pretty tight to the block/pan. Besides the O2 bung location I bet it would clear a front shaft.
 
When I did my swap and dad’s I just took them to a local custom muffler shop and let them figure it out, lol. Both got true duals. Dad’s we used the Explorer Y-pipe and cats, mine they did everything off of a couple stubs I mounted to the headers. I did a Magnaflow crossover muffler on both to eliminate the need for an X or H pipe on the duals and it helped save space. I did an 18” muffler but with the headers on mine, I probably could have gone to a 20” or 22” to help quiet it down a little. It gets loud quick.
 
When I did my swap and dad’s I just took them to a local custom muffler shop and let them figure it out, lol. Both got true duals. Dad’s we used the Explorer Y-pipe and cats, mine they did everything off of a couple stubs I mounted to the headers. I did a Magnaflow crossover muffler on both to eliminate the need for an X or H pipe on the duals and it helped save space. I did an 18” muffler but with the headers on mine, I probably could have gone to a 20” or 22” to help quiet it down a little. It gets loud quick.

That is what I did

Then I brought it back because when they had it on a two post lift they didn't know the front diff dropped and the driveshaft rubbed. :fie:

Then when i swapped to a telescoping driveshaft I had to totally remake it because it did not fit at all. :annoyed:

Mine wraps around the bellhousing (added plus any ATF drippings from transmissions dribbled down the bell onto the exhaust for disposal) not the oil pan.

What oil pan is that? I am not sure my foxbody pan has enough room to do that. Does it heat the oil?
 

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