Aces Killshot Fusion EFI Swap


I had good weather tonight so I buckled down and sorted the fuel system wiring. It had been a few years since I have dealt with it and I don't think I have ever dealt with the entire system at once before.

It is kind of neat, ECU turns the pump on when it turns on for a bit and cycles it off.

In theory if I tightened the dizzy down and put plug wires on it the thing should run...
 
Last edited:
I had good weather tonight so I buckled down and sorted the fuel system wiring. It had been a few years since I have dealt with it and I don't think I have ever dealt with the entire system at once before.

It is kind of neat, ECU turns the pump on when it turns on for a bit and cycles it off.

In theory if I tightened the dizzy down and put plug wires on it the thing should run...
Did yours come with the PDM? Seems pretty straightforward to wire up. Did you use coil + circuit for the EFI main harness ignition? When i do mines (1985) im wondering where i can run my ignition circuit off of for the kit. Use a relay? Or tag existing ignition key on wire?
 
I didn't bother with the PDM, for me I don't think it would have gained me much.

I added two fuse/relay blocks a few years ago. One is hot with the key and one is constant battery power. I have them mounted next to the battery where all the 2.8 emissions stuff used to be. Really the only thing with the EFI running out of there is the fuel pump and the ECM gets key power. ECM power/ground are straight to the battery. Everything else goes elsewhere.

The actual hooking up of the EFI if you have a blank slate wouldn't be too bad. I am unweaving my previous ignition system, fuel system wiring and efan wiring and redoing all that as well.

I can also only work on it late at night which is not the most productive time to do this kind of thing which is making it drag out even longer.

Last night I torqued the front wheel and put tools away that accumulated around and decided I didn't feel like dealing with it for example.
 
I didn't bother with the PDM, for me I don't think it would have gained me much.

I added two fuse/relay blocks a few years ago. One is hot with the key and one is constant battery power. I have them mounted next to the battery where all the 2.8 emissions stuff used to be. Really the only thing with the EFI running out of there is the fuel pump and the ECM gets key power. ECM power/ground are straight to the battery. Everything else goes elsewhere.

The actual hooking up of the EFI if you have a blank slate wouldn't be too bad. I am unweaving my previous ignition system, fuel system wiring and efan wiring and redoing all that as well.

I can also only work on it late at night which is not the most productive time to do this kind of thing which is making it drag out even longer.

Last night I torqued the front wheel and put tools away that accumulated around and decided I didn't feel like dealing with it for example.
Thanks, i will do that. Install a relay. I heard earlier in the threads you popped a fuse, what amperage them high pressure pumps rated at? I’ll probably do a 40A relay for the key switch to power the EFI system. The kit im looking at comes with PDM and relays are built into that.
 
Thanks, i will do that. Install a relay. I heard earlier in the threads you popped a fuse, what amperage them high pressure pumps rated at? I’ll probably do a 40A relay for the key switch to power the EFI system. The kit im looking at comes with PDM and relays are built into that.

My old pump seemed ok with a 5a fuse, this one is drawing like 7.2a so I put a 10a fuse on it.
 
Thanks, i will do that. Install a relay. I heard earlier in the threads you popped a fuse, what amperage them high pressure pumps rated at? I’ll probably do a 40A relay for the key switch to power the EFI system. The kit im looking at comes with PDM and relays are built into that.
Your new pump should have its ratings listed. General electrical practice is to size the fuse (overcurrent protection) at 125% the rated current of the device. Round off to the nearest standard value. For example; 7.5amp rating on the pump X 125% = 9.375amps. Use a 10 amp fuse. Also make sure all the wiring is rated for that current. Everything in the circuit must be capable of safely carrying the current allowed by the fuse or breaker. Otherwise, results could be disastrous.
 
Your new pump should have its ratings listed. General electrical practice is to size the fuse (overcurrent protection) at 125% the rated current of the device. Round off to the nearest standard value. For example; 7.5amp rating on the pump X 125% = 9.375amps. Use a 10 amp fuse. Also make sure all the wiring is rated for that current. Everything in the circuit must be capable of safely carrying the current allowed by the fuse or breaker. Otherwise, results could be disastrous.
Yeah it looks like the PDM already has fuses built into it. Im just going to add a relay so im not daisy chaining off my existing factory key on circuit. Plus when i add accessories they can be ran off the relay (assuming it will stay under the 40A threshold) positive wires get fused accordingly.
I personally never had a issue with 12v electrical, seems to be my specialty. Only gets spicy when your dealing with canbus systems and pwm signals.
 

Sponsored Ad

TRS Events & Gatherings

Featured Rangers

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

TRS Latest Video

Official TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Ranger Sponsors


Product Suggestions

Back
Top