Heater core bypass valves?

[rusty ol ranger]

86 Bronco II

My blend door lever is broke tottally.

I was pulling dash to replace the box but i have a question...

If i set the blend door to heat and install a couple shut off valves on the heater hoses....would i need to install some kind of bypass for when the valves are closed?

 

[rumblecloud]

If you did have to do a bypass you could prolly rig something using like a 3-way ball valve? But then I'm not sure where you would install them. Easiest is under the hood but then...

 

[rusty ol ranger]

If you did have to do a bypass you could prolly rig something using like a 3-way ball valve? But then I'm not sure where you would install them. Easiest is under the hood but then...

I found a cable operated one....im wondering if i can rig it up to the factory controls...

Heater Bypass Valve Kit - Cable Operated #50-1553 | eBay

Old Air Products Heater Bypass Valve Kit - Cable Operated. Heater valve fits 5/8" heater hose, with sleeve adapters for 3/4" heater hose applications.

www.ebay.com

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

The later Rangers had vacuum operated heater bypass valves. Some had a single valve and some had the double valve, the double valve sends flow back to the motor and the singles don’t. I’ve been debating on rigging one up in my older stuff. On the newer stuff those only operate when you’re in the Max A/C setting and I’ve been debating if I want to try and modify it to be able to activate it whenever I want. Just that’s considered an additional creature comfort thing and I’m still trying to deal with the more important stuff

 

[rusty ol ranger]

The later Rangers had vacuum operated heater bypass valves. Some had a single valve and some had the double valve, the double valve sends flow back to the motor and the singles don’t. I’ve been debating on rigging one up in my older stuff. On the newer stuff those only operate when you’re in the Max A/C setting and I’ve been debating if I want to try and modify it to be able to activate it whenever I want. Just that’s considered an additional creature comfort thing and I’m still trying to deal with the more important stuff

Mine broke the actual piece that attaches to the blend door. It was stuck inbetween hot and cold. So all summer it was hot then winter i had no heat lol.

 

[cbxer55]

Mine broke many years ago. Supposedly the default setting is heat on. Mine is hot air only. AC died many years ago as well, so I am back to being an old school windows down type. Which I prefer anyways. I'll even roll around in the winter with the windows down and the heat on full blast.

 

[cbxer55]

Here is a link to a method to fix the broken blend door. I am just too lazy to ever getaroundtuit.

Broken Heater/Air Conditioning Blend Door - The Ranger Station

The blend door on the 1993-1997 Ford Ranger has been known to break and cause the air or heat to not function properly.

www.therangerstation.com

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Here is a link to a method to fix the broken blend door. I am just too lazy to ever getaroundtuit.

Broken Heater/Air Conditioning Blend Door - The Ranger Station

The blend door on the 1993-1997 Ford Ranger has been known to break and cause the air or heat to not function properly.

www.therangerstation.com

Mines an 86....its all cable operated

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Mine broke the actual piece that attaches to the blend door. It was stuck inbetween hot and cold. So all summer it was hot then winter i had no heat lol.

I get that, I was talking about the valves on the heater lines.

I don’t know if the blend door will stay put if it’s broken, might be something that needs fixed. My thought with the valve was more that I could remove the heater core from the equation if I’m trying to maximize AC function in the summer without using the Max AC setting or if I wanted to just bring outside air in through the vents without the heater core warming the air or the AC running. Just an idea that’s been rattling around in my head for awhile, lol

 

[rusty ol ranger]

I get that, I was talking about the valves on the heater lines.

I don’t know if the blend door will stay put if it’s broken, might be something that needs fixed. My thought with the valve was more that I could remove the heater core from the equation if I’m trying to maximize AC function in the summer without using the Max AC setting or if I wanted to just bring outside air in through the vents without the heater core warming the air or the AC running. Just an idea that’s been rattling around in my head for awhile, lol

Ah i gotcha.

The semi runs those valves that are supposed to help with AC operation by shutting off heater core...honestly it makes no difference. I leave mine open because we have days where you want heat in the morning then later on ac.

Im going to go out today and see if its possible to wrestle the heater box out from under the dash...im not very hopeful though

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Ah i gotcha.

The semi runs those valves that are supposed to help with AC operation by shutting off heater core...honestly it makes no difference.

Ag tractors have them too, mainly IH for some reason. Something else to leak and I don't think they make any difference.

 

[PlumCrazy]

I found a cable operated one....im wondering if i can rig it up to the factory controls...

Heater Bypass Valve Kit - Cable Operated #50-1553 | eBay

Old Air Products Heater Bypass Valve Kit - Cable Operated. Heater valve fits 5/8" heater hose, with sleeve adapters for 3/4" heater hose applications.

www.ebay.com

I used this exact kit in my 88. Its a non-AC truck so anything I can do to remove heat from the cabin helps. Having a 200* chunk of copper/aluminum in the dash whether air is moving across it or not isn't ideal in the summer...but mornings like this morning when I came out to a heavy frost, its nice to just pull the knob and have heat when I need it.

Not the best picture of it, but I did the install when I replacing the leaky heater core. It made it pretty easy to sneak the cable through the firewall with one if the heater core barbs. I think I just drilled a 1/4 hole in the HVAC plenum with a long drill bit from the engine bay side while the core was out. I put thick heat shrink arounf the cable so it wouldnt rub the heater core tank.

I will look for pics of cable routing...I did it during my hiatus from documenting stuff