2.3L ('83-'97) 2.3l


Joined
Mar 21, 2026
Messages
7
Points
1
City
Windsor
State - Country
MO - USA
Vehicle Year
1988
Vehicle
Ford Ranger
Drive
4WD
Engine
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Manual
I’ve replaced my distributor, tfi, plugs, coil and everything else to get spark back. I got spark then my fuel pumps quit. I replaced both pumps and filter. It cranks and will fire but will not start. I’m just throwing money at it now. Can someone please give me some advice on what to do next? Should I replace the fuel injectors? I’m at a loss
 
What was the sequence of events that happened? Were you driving and it just died? Do you know what part actually failed? As for the new fuel in pumps, you should verify fuel pressure at the rail to make sure they're working. Fuel injectors don't just fail, and if it was running before they should still be ok.
 
I got it from a family member that parked it because of a drain on the battery. It sat for 4 or five years. When I picked it up I tried to get it started so I could pull it on the trailer. Fuel pumps were dead but fired off of starting fluid. When I got it home and started messing with it on l one of the fuel pumps started working and I lost spark. I replaced everything that I mentioned and got spark back and both pumps are kicking on when I turn the key on.
 
Ok it sitting for 5 years makes more sense. I'd still find the Schrader valve on the fuel rail and see if fuel is getting up there.

Was there any signs of rodents?

It's possible the injectors could get gummed up in 5 years. Before ripping it apart, you could try to unplug an easy to access injector and operate it with a 9v -12v battery. There should be an audible click.
 
I didn’t see any signs of rodents. I tore out the entire interior dash and all looking but found none. I will try that with the 9 volt battery. I do have fuel pressure at the schrader valve. The eec relay harness doesn’t look good and I can see the bare wires at the bottom of it so I have one of those on order. I already replaced fuel pump relay and harness because they looked the same
 
Also if I pump the gas while turning it over it fires and I feel like it comes close to starting
 
Pumping the gas on a fuel injected engine doesn't do anything but giving it a little throttle would add air which would make more sense.
 
So I took out my ecm and I found what looks to be a burnt spot. Could this possibly be my issue and if so are they all the same for a manual transmission? I thought about trying to fix it but not to confident.
2.3l
 
That blue cylinder looks like a capacitor that has leaked. Apparently fairly easy to solder in a new one. Couldn't hurt to try before buying a different ecu.
@Curious Hound
 
I’ve never soldered anything before. I’m going to look into it. Hopefully this is my problem. I was about ready to junk the truck
 
That silly little $0.50 capacitor definitely can cause random problems... the dumb thing about this stuff anymore is you can't go to Radio Shack and get one for $0.50, soldering iron for $6 and solder for like $2, you'd have to order it online somewhere (there's options like digikey or mouser and such) just look for capacitors with whatever Farad reading that one is and get any generic soldering iron even the cheap one from Harbor Freight or Walmart and some solder.. If I remember right on that type of capacitor you want the black line to be on the same side as what you have now as they do have a + and -.
 
That blue cylinder looks like a capacitor that has leaked. Apparently fairly easy to solder in a new one. Couldn't hurt to try before buying a different ecu.
@Curious Hound
I agree it looks like there is a mess under that cap. If you see a few other similar capacitors, replace them all. I should add that job to my video collection for people.
 

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