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Only starts on Ether, high idle, randomly dies.


H311RzR

Well-Known Member
U.S. Military - Active
Joined
Feb 23, 2011
Messages
128
Vehicle Year
1991
Engine
4.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
Hey everyone my son just bought his first vehicle a "non-running" 91 Ranger 4.0. We got it running within a few minutes of getting it home but only on Ether. After some TS and identifying a bad pump, replaced that and the fuel filter, it got a bit better, next the fuel pressure regulator may or may not have been bad but that got replaced too (good pressure but instantly lost pressure when turning ignition off). Then when checking compression we pulled some wire ends off and a few of the plugs were sparking through the insulation so new set of plugs and wires. (looks like a pretty new coil pack already).

It currently will only start with a shot or two of ether, but then stays running after that (rough though). It stumbles when revving it and will die if the pedal is hit too quickly. The IAC seems to be good, TPS seems to be good (have proper voltage and the signal moves up to 10.6 volts ish wide open. Power is 11.6), MAF hasnt been cleared good yet, but haven't probed it while running to be sure.

CPS is good.

The PCM gets too hot to touch while ignition is on but truck not running and upon inspection looks like both ground bolts on the actual board have a bit of heat damage but nothing else looks out of ordinary. I checked all the pins on the plug and attached a pdf with the readouts. Only found 1 pin different than the schematic that I had: Pin 49 is an orange wire reading 12 volts. The only orange wire I could find on the other wiring diagrams is for the fuel sender/fuel pump gauge and is a ground wire so red flag there, but I cant find a route where the Orange wire on the tank connects to the orange wire on the PCM plug (potentially not the same run/ wire) They do not have continuity, but that could just be a broken cable if they are supposed to be the same wire.

The fuel relay doesn't kick on most of the time and other times it kicks on but doesn't turn off while connected normally. If I jumper the test wire in the EEC plug the relay kicks on and stays on normally. I have 36psi at the rail and all the injectors seemed to be ok.
The alternator was also getting hot while the ignition was on, so that's been unplugged, further indicating a potential wiring problem.

Specs:1991 Ranger 4.0L Automatic 2WD
Compression:
3: 170 4: 170
2: 180 5: 180
1: 180 6: 200

To recap:
  1. Only starts with Ether (once warm if I turn it off and immediately try to restart I can coax it by pumping throttle just the right way to restart)
    1. Idle seems a bit high
    2. Stumbles and struggles to rev
    3. Will die if floored from idle
  2. PCM gets hot while ignition is on and motor not running.
  3. Fuel relay will kick on sometimes (I'm ok bypassing that till the other problems are fixed incase the relay actually is bad)
  4. The front most relay (WOT I think) randomly cycles a lot while the ignition is on
  5. Pin 49 (potentially a ground) has 12 volts while ignition is on)
  6. The "diagnosis" doesn't seem to work, the check engine light is just always on even when jumping the EEC plug to make it flash the codes.
Is this a bad PCM?
Can anyone confirm what pin 49 is on the F17F-ACA PCM?

Thanks for any ideas, I want to confirm something is bad before throwing more parts at it!
 

Attachments

So the first thing tgst strikes me is TPS works with a 5 volt reference. If you're seeing 10 volts at wide open... something is wrong.
 
So the first thing tgst strikes me is TPS works with a 5 volt reference. If you're seeing 10 volts at wide open... something is wrong.
Ohh! Didn't even think about that! Thank you! I woulda totally missed that with everything going on.
 
Looking around today it appears pin 26 (5v VREF) is outputting 10v. I've unplugged, IAT,TPS,MAF,O2 sensor, and still 10v on vref from PCM. Thoughts on how I would confirm if its the PCM sending the 10 volts (bad pcm)? with the PCM unplugged that wire is 0volts.
 
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Almost sounds like something else is putting 12v on that wire and PCM is doing it's best to bring it down to 5v. Hence the heat...
 
Thanks for the responses, im currently testing all the wires to ensure no short to ground/ voltage. im seeing some weird voltages on wires only while the PCM is plugged in. I ordered a new one but am verifying the integrity of the harness prior to plugging it in to ensure something doesn't fry it too. The old PCM has a resistor missing and one of the capacitors has started leaking and the ground points look overloaded. Im almost hopeful I find a shorted wire to give a good reason the PCM could be messed up, if not well then its just odd imo. Ill update once I know the wires are good and have installed the new PCM.
 
Well more fun. Chasing wires and finding weirdness with the brake switch showing 8 volts and would blink up to 12 volts with the flashers were on so I played with harnesses and moved things around but it stayed steady. Eventually took out the instrument cluster and the flexible PCB on the back had a lot of rust and delamination (hoping that could be shorting something to voltage) took it out, reconnected everything and now I have no spark or fuel pressure (12 volts going to fuel pump and 12 volts at coil)....but the brake switch is reading a steady 12v now...SMH!!!! I'll keep working on it just a bit defeated at the moment.
 
Still not working, new pcm and now no spark or "wet spark plugs" fuel pressure is good and working like it should, 12v at coil and injectors. Next on the list is edis/cps. Gonna go to a local junkyard and see what they have there. Crank sensor is putting out about .6/.7 volts (ac) from what my multimeter can tell, but no fuel or spark so maybe its not enough to trigger the edis module. Oh the tps is now reading 5v ref now!! So glad the new pcm is fixing some things. Got a new coil because the secondary ohmed out to 13k and manual says 11.5k max so ill keep old one and test it once I get her back runnin.
 
If the check engine lamp goes out while cranking, CKP is good. Any new codes?
 
If the plugs are wet, either the injectors are firing, leaking, or it's pulling fuel from the pressure regulator.
 
It's running on its own again! Ran to the salvage yard and picked up a cps and edis (ignition control) module for what a tank of gas used to cost in the day lol. Plugged up the edis and took a few crank but she fired up! Runs pretty smooth, idles great and happily revs! So I've got a spare cps, and she seems happy now. Only difference is the new edis I think is a newer version (906b vs 91bb). So happy its alive again!!
 

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AFAIK, all EDIS models are compatible with the same number of cylinders.
 

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