2007 Red Trailer 4X8 Utility Trailer

[sgtsandman]

Just a heads up on drills and cutting. Its unclear in your post if you did this but using progressively bigger bits is wrong. That will wear out the bit way quicker and much more likely to chip the outside. Best is use a pilot drill that is the size of the chisel point of the big drill. Two drill sizes for one hole, not 4 or 5 drill bits. If you need exact hole size then a reamer is used for the last after a slightly undersize drill bit.

I was always told stepping up in 1/8" increments was better. But I'm also not a machinist nor ever got any training to be one. So, what you say may be correct and those who told me the method I'm using are full of crap. It certainly would have saved a lot of time!

 

[Uncle Gump]

Uni-bit for the win...

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Unibit for up to 3/8" depending on the bit. Usually I use those for under 1/8" as they give a round hole when drilling by hand rather than the tri-lobe I get with a regular bit.
I haven't delved into it too much but there is definitely different ways of sharpening bits depending on what you're drilling. I can handsharpen basic bit for drilling mild steel. Which isn't ideal for aluminum or brass...

 

[sgtsandman]

Uni-bit for the win...

My drill press is too small, as in doesn't have enough travel for one. I thought about it and tried it. Though, I do use one for final fitting since I don't have the precision of a machine shop. I put all the layers together in a vice with some of the bolts and place and give the holes a good reaming, then move the bolts around.

 

[sgtsandman]

Unibit for up to 3/8" depending on the bit. Usually I use those for under 1/8" as they give a round hole when drilling by hand rather than the tri-lobe I get with a regular bit.
I haven't delved into it too much but there is definitely different ways of sharpening bits depending on what you're drilling. I can handsharpen basic bit for drilling mild steel. Which isn't ideal for aluminum or brass...

The step bits I've seen are up to 1/2" or larger.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

The step bits I've seen are up to 1/2" or larger.

The depth of each step is usually 1/8". Some I've used are up to 1/2". So the 1/8" has a 1/2" depth, then the next step has a 1/2", etc., up to the final 1/2" step.
Unibits can go up to 1 1/2" diameter or more AFAIK, but each step is only 1/8".
I used a step bit when drilling the rivet holes on my frame brackets. Because rivets don't depend on having the holes alicn when riveted in place, bolts won't necessarily fit until the hole is drilled.

 

[sgtsandman]

The depth of each step is usually 1/8". Some I've used are up to 1/2". So the 1/8" has a 1/2" depth, then the next step has a 1/2", etc., up to the final 1/2" step.
Unibits can go up to 1 1/2" diameter or more AFAIK, but each step is only 1/8".

Perhaps it was a misunderstanding on my part. The ones I have are either about 1/8" before the next step or about 1/4" or 3/8" of an inch (I've never measured).

 

[sgtsandman]

The right side spare tire mount fabrication and fitting was completed today. Since it is a mirror of the left one, no pictures. I just need to clean up the garage some and move on to prepping the pieces for priming and painting. It appears I have most of what I need left over from previous work on the trailer to complete the job. I may need to pickup a can of sand colored paint but that should be about it.

 

[sgtsandman]

The left side mount is on. It was the side that was a bit on the tight side for clearance of the side board up right.

Mount installed.

I temporarily mounted the spare to see if my mission was acoomplished.

I then put the sideboard back on to make sure the new mount cleared everything as planned.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Nice job.
Where did the lock come from? Looks like a good thing to have...

 

[sgtsandman]

Nice job.
Where did the lock come from? Looks like a good thing to have...

I can't remember. Several places have them. I think I got one at Lowes and another from etrailer.com, possibly amazon. At one point, Advance Auto Parts had them too but I don't think they sell them anymore.

You put the base under the lug nut and lock the cover on after the lug nut is tightened down.

 

[sgtsandman]

The spare tire mounts are complete and the trailer is back together. I'm still paying for the mistake of bed lining the deck and sides of the trailer. So, I have some touch up work to do.

 

[sgtsandman]

The a rack has been built in preparation for the delivery of a roof top tent on Friday. With the carport being up in the gravel driveway and not knowing what kind of equipment the delivery company will have with them ( as to whether it would clear the carport or be able to operate on a gravel driveway), I decided the rack will be needed to make sure I can get the RTT into the garage for inspection and storage until it can be installed on the 2019.

 

[Curious Hound]

The a rack has been built in preparation for the delivery of a roof top tent on Friday. With the carport being up in the gravel driveway and not knowing what kind of equipment the delivery company will have with them ( as to whether it would clear the carport or be able to operate on a gravel driveway), I decided the rack will be needed to make sure I can get the RTT into the garage for inspection and storage until it can be installed on the 2019.

I predict that you and the delivery driver will be manually lifting the rtt out of his truck onto your trailer rack or the ground.

 

[sgtsandman]

I predict that you and the delivery driver will be manually lifting the rtt out of his truck onto your trailer rack or the ground.

That is always a possibility as well. The reported shipping weight is either 300# or around 200#. 200# makes more sense since the RTT is 176# but who knows. Maybe it's just the way the shipping company compensates for a large, bullky item as far as the rate they charge.