any voltage regulator gurus here? 2.8 1984

[franklin2]

ok... i think i see whats wrong on my wire system. there is a black and orange wire that is thicker that runs into the "firewall" that is melted at the connector with nothing and no wires hooked to it. I am going to guess this is what should also be wired to the Batt connector on the alternator?

and yes, had the trickle charger sitting on the bat all night, says 13.2 volts.

Tested this melted wire, it shows live at 13.05 volts..... took the tape off of it that was protecting the live section.... ok my guess is to wire this up?

cheers

(one other thing i forgot to mention.... this system is dual battery. the OP wired in a secondary deep cycle battery to use for all the camper stuff at one time. will this also screw up the charging system> it is why I just hooked the lead from the alternator directly to the main truck battery)?

one last question, what size line fuse should i place into this wire set up?

If you look at the diagram, the black orange goes to a splice S109. In the diagram it sort of forms a "Tee" and power flows through the firewall to the keyswitch, and also flows the other way to the battery. You can't see it in the diagram, but that wire that goes to the battery runs up along where the radiator is. That splice and all that stuff is over on the driver's side inner fender. So I am assuming it's like mine right now, that black/orange that tested hot is probably the same wire that goes up from behind the radiator and is hooked to the battery + on the starter solenoid/relay. I am not sure how your keyswitch is getting power if this wire is not hooked up and going through the firewall, unless there is more previous owner wiring.

Where was this aux battery charged from in the circuit? If it was hooked up down the line over on the driver's side, that could have contributed to the wire melting.

 

[Angie]

yes there is a fuse link from the starter relay to a black orange that goes in front of rad. then takes off into the wire harness.

the aux battery is wired to the main battery. with a isolator between them. then i have a tender wired to the deep cycle, there are 2 wires from the deep cycle that go back into the camper/ 1 goes to the very back second runs to a power fuse block i am using for the cab accessories IE stereo, some lights, back up camera. pics will explain. as far as other power... that seems to be it.

there is no alt power light on the key on .... in cab. might be burnt out light, haven't taken dash apart yet to clean and replace a couple lights. will do soon... cheers

 

[franklin2]

Your truck came with gauges correct? So you will not have a "gen" light in the dash. That is also why there is no connection to the "I" terminal of the regulator. There were two ways to wire the charging system, one way with dash lights, the other way with dash gauges.

 

[Angie]

thanks for all the help.

i was able to get this working a couple days ago. did get a new regulator, however before i hooked it up, i tried something first.

drilled a hole in the main plastic connector/wire plug and built a wire to plug into a ignition key one wire to the I input. and also used the new F wire i had made to plug into the regulator.

this did get the alt to charge, however the volts were running over 16.5 and would only drop when i used all the lights and heater on full... would drop down to 13+ ...

figured the "original" regulator was bad i put in the new one. same way, wired the I plug. the alternator worked exactly the same pushing 16" volts. decided to switch the F and S wires that were hooked to the Alternator.

BINGO ,,,, this fixed the over charge. stays a steady around 13.6 & 14.0 on idle, high revs, while driving low and high speeds, all things pulled on or off.

In conclusion. new alt, new regulator. (old are spares now) was all down to wiring procedures. cheers all thanks