SAS, trailing arms vs. 3 link vs. 4 link

[rang-a-stang]

Planning out a SAS for our mostly daily driven 99% road/occasional overlanding 86 4wd, standard cab.

What are the pros and cons of each of the 3 suspensions systems I listed in the title? We are not looking for max flex, we are looking for reliability, road driving characteristics, and hopefully installation cost considerations. We will probably buy all the supplies and have found a shop to do the install but are not sure which suspension set up to go with. We drive this truck on long road trips often so really the onroad characteristics are MUCH more important to us. We are focusing on keeping the weight down and are running 31" tires (but may eventually go to 33s).

When I say "Cost considerations" I don't mean I am not willing to buy new bracketry or I am going to re-use old tie rods. What I do mean is, I do not want to have to buy coilovers or remote reservoir shocks. If all 3 suspensions are generally the same cost (plus or minus $500) then cost is awash. But if trailing arms are going to cost $5k to install and a 3 or 4 link is $3500, then trailing arms are off the table.

I am also fully aware I am asking a VERY general question and there a gabillion variables (especially on cost) so really looking for general input. I asked this question in the past and it got rabbit holed into talking about axles. Just assume we are using your favorite axle (whatever it may be).

 

[franklin2]

........ We are not looking for max flex, we are looking for reliability, road driving characteristics, and hopefully installation cost considerations........... We drive this truck on long road trips often so really the onroad characteristics are MUCH more important to us. We are focusing on keeping the weight down and are running 31" tires (but may eventually go to 33s).

Sounds like you need to leave it stock. Factory suspension is superior to anything else as far as on road characteristics. There is a reason the factory got away from SAS front suspensions.

 

[rang-a-stang]

fair answer. We are tired of fighting with the TTB. As it is now, we need trailing arm drop brackets and/or longer trailing arms (truck currently has 0 caster) and a more dropped pitman arm. We want an air locker, unit bearings, better brake options, and stronger hubs. Adding drop brackets also inpacts our rear-of-axle front sway bar. There are no sway bar disconnects for the sway bar and when we wheel it is, it is a PITA to remove the sway bar for articulation. Finding quality parts for TTBs is getting harder with all the garbage from the aftermarket these days and the parts in the yards are now 25+ years old and 100's of 1000's of miles on them. We want to install our axle and be done with it. A solid axle has less maintenance and failure points too.

All that to say, I know we can get the TTBs to be where want it, but we would rather have a solid axle. Buy the best, cry once.

 

[scotts90ranger]

For me I would just swap a Dana 35 up front, remove the sway bar all together, my '90 with 6" lift and 35's hasn't had one since I lifted it, I got used to it being tippy. But yeah, I see ya on your considerations...

For what you are after a Dana 30 would probably do it, does James Duff still offer the kit?

 

[rang-a-stang]

James Duff does still offer a kit and that is on the table. When I did my reading, it looks like about $2500 in parts but I can probably do about 90% of it in my garage.

 

[dvdswan]

It all depends on your hunting skills, fabrication skills, and bargaining skills.

A buddy of mine did a SAS with a profit of $20.00. D44 from 78/79 F150 and even narrowed it down to fit his Nissan. Used all the suspension components from it. IIRC, he spent like 400 or 500 from a j/y for it.

 

[Northidahotrailblazer]

Hands down the the easiest to swap is radius arm/trailing arm. I have done, Jeep long arm/radius arms and it is very tough. I ran it for years. Had more issues with the pan hard bushings wearing out, until I went with heim joints and never had another issue with it.

Hands down tho, a D44 from 75-79 F150 with the stock radius arms is easy to do and tough. A narrowed one fits great. You can buy the pan hard bracket from duff and everything else you need.

I would stay away from a 3 link or 4 link.... 4 links are hard to fit, it would be an extreme amount of fab work. a 3 link is doable. I did mine, I believe for the amount a work it was a jeep long arm setup is the way to go.

I have a 3 linked and radius arm swapped my 92 and if i was going to do it again. I would just radius arm swap it. On my 89 Bronco II i'm not 100% sure what i'm going to do yet. I don't have the right axle to do leaf springs or else I would just do front leaf springs. A 3 link is hard because room is hard to deal with. My 89 B2, Is a little different, since I don't have exhuast to deal with. That was the biggest pain with my 3 link on my 92. I had to run the 3rd link up next to my front drive line. It worked, but because my link mount is on the drives side, I don't have a lot of up travel on that side. I hit my bump stops a lot. Yes it works. I DD my ranger, this summer I was driving it to work alot, 80 miles plus with 65 of it freeway of 65-75mph. If built right, they drive great.

But with your end goal being a 33, I would really look into, a D35 and 8.8. Something to consider tho, for 31s and 33s you should consider regearing the axles and I was told from a facebook group that yukon is no longer making gears for the TTB D35. So whats out there is whats left. I don't know if thats true for all the gear companies but I know must of them come from the same place in china so Regearing the D35 might be something to look into, and might make a SAS better because for a D30 you can regear it all day long and will beable to forever..... The D35 is becoming like the D28 sadly.

 

[ryan]

Getting to 33s, stick with the 35 and an 8.8

for smaller tires (<37s) i'd go raidus arms and leafs in the rear, simple and easy to get done.

If fab skills aren't a stopping block, and you're looking to run big tires I'd go 4 link. Trailing arms are great if you're looking to go fast

 

[rang-a-stang]

Geart info gentlemen. Exactly what I am looking for!

 

[Shran]

Big bummer about factory Ford half ton radius arms is the C bushings. If you wheel it hard, you will be replacing them often. Not a hard job but quite time consuming.

 

[rang-a-stang]

If we do trailing arms, we will buy a kit. Probably one like this:

DIY Universal Radius / Long Arm Kit

DIY Universal Radius / Long Arm Kit This is an easy kit for making your own set of Radius Long arms. Keep in mind you could add something as simple as a Panhard Kit and either coil. buckets or coil-over brackets and you have an inexpensive and complete suspension setup. The Lower tubes are 2" x...

www.ruffstuffspecialties.com

Plus

Panhard Kit / TrackBar

Panhard Kit / TrackBar If you have any lift at all then your axle has shifted position towards the driver side and if your vehicle does not have an adjustable panhard bar then you will need to replace it to get the axle centered. Some people might just change the panhard bar or the brackets, in...

www.ruffstuffspecialties.com

(understanding there is a lot more than just these 2 kits needed)

The thing that sucks about D35's is the newest one is now 25 years old and has 6 digits worth of miles on it. Finding them isn't that hard but finding a complete setup in good condition is getting "harder". Disassembly and cleaning really sucks and the aftermarket parts are garbage or getting outrageous expensive/non-existent.

If we pull a more modern axle (D30/D44) Spicer is still spitting those axles out and their parts are still OEM quality or better yet easy to find. We also have a lot more options for brakes, lockers, etc.