What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Well, Choptop is back on its tires. Front axle isn’t functional but it’s drivable. Good enough for now. Threw in a $65 radio so it has tunes now again. Still needs a bunch of stuff, but as long as I can drive it for now. Green Ranger gets my attention next. Once it’s back up, then I can get the choptop sorted out. Then the dump.

 

[RangerBilly]

I suggest you goop it up, slide it in the tubing and clamp it before the goop sets. Then you’ll have a perfect fit between the pipe, the rubber, and the clamps. Just don’t put any pressure on it for a day.

I’m glad someone else in this forum knows how to do stuff (except I would’ve found something in the shed of miracles, not going to all that expense to buy a pipe nipple).

Rick, I decided to wait until the stuff set before pushing the hose ends onto the pipe nipple, as I would probably need to drive the truck soon and couldn't wait a day. I didn't want the water pressure to push the wet stuff out. It was a pretty snug fit.

So, the job is completed, as planned. I warmed up the engine and saw no leaks. I still have the option of doing it your way, as the pipe nipple cost less than four bucks. Alas, I don't have a shed full of miracle parts...

Again, your advice is appreciated! I want to keep this 30 year-old truck rolling for a few more years, as the cost and sophistication of the new ones give me the chills. And Ford's utter contempt for its customers over the years doesn't make me happy, either.

And I have NO ASSURANCE that Ford will ever get its act together concerning sensible design, quality control and durable materials. For example, the owner's manual for mine needed FIVE PAGES to explain how to untangle the seat belt! WTH?

Are they still using Rustawaynium for their frames and bodies?

And don't get me started about that crappy A4LD (from a Pinto yet?)

 

[Rick W]

Rick, I decided to wait until the stuff set before pushing the hose ends onto the pipe nipple, as I would probably need to drive the truck soon and couldn't wait a day. I didn't want the water pressure to push the wet stuff out. It was a pretty snug fit.

So, the job is completed, as planned. I warmed up the engine and saw no leaks. I still have the option of doing it your way, as the pipe nipple cost less than four bucks. Alas, I don't have a shed full of miracle parts...

Again, your advice is appreciated! I want to keep this 30 year-old truck rolling for a few more years, as the cost and sophistication of the new ones give me the chills. And Ford's utter contempt for its customers over the years doesn't make me happy, either.

And I have NO ASSURANCE that Ford will ever get its act together concerning sensible design, quality control and durable materials. For example, the owner's manual for mine needed FIVE PAGES to explain how to untangle the seat belt! WTH?

Are they still using Rustawaynium for their frames and bodies?

And don't get me started about that crappy A4LD (from a Pinto yet?)

No worries, good luck. This is all a cross between a hobby and therapy for me. I hope I don’t sound like a know it all, but I’ve traveled down the road for a long time, a lot of folks helped me along the way, and that’s how I offer my advice always. No hurt feelings if it doesn’t get followed!.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Finished up the last wheel then decided to pull the '97 Ranger into the shop to figure out what exhaust heat shield was rattling... dang factory muffler heat shield had two cracks in it after only what, 26 years and 200k miles? BS! Got those welded up and while under there finally pulled out the speedo gear to figure out what was in there so I could get one less tooth... it has a black 19 tooth so I need an 18 tooth, might order tires on Amazon later tonight then I can mount them and just take them to a shop to balance, simple enough... if everything works out it will have new tires next weekend which would be nice...

The odometer on that thing is over 199960 as of yesterday, so monday just before I get to work it should roll over to 200k... unless I go somewhere tomorrow...

 

[scotts90ranger]

Tomorrow I might pull the '00 Explorer into the shop to start on stage 2? of it's build... it's worn out and beat up and runs bad and the passenger side motor mount has been broken long enough to have worn out the block to the point it breaks bolts instantaneously... So I get to pull the engine to weld some metal back onto the motor mount area (maybe add an extra support like the marine engines have...). That's just part of it though, since it has 250k+ miles on it the valve stem seals and valve cover gaskets are shot, might as well do the rear main (not sure I did that when I did the transmission but I think I did...). I do happen to have OBX headers for it so they should go on then too... oh and one of the water pump bolts broke when I changed it so I need to do that... I have until early September to get that done since the wife is dead set on doing a tractor pull again this year (I'm not upset about this...). Should do plugs and wires while in there, if I was smart I'd put new rings on but that's for a later date...

The dumb part of this plan is I literally have everything on hand and have for like 5 years... my list is long...

 

[scotts90ranger]

Ok, apparently I miscounted earlier, black is 20 teeth, apparently pink is 19 teeth and either that's what I ordered once before or it's what's in the '90 which if I remember needs one more teeth to slow it down? I'll investigate that tomorrow... that sounds like a simple fix if I just have to swap, harder if I have to find the one I pulled years ago...

Pretty sure on the '90 I jumped from the pink to the red and still needed one more tooth since it reads fast if memory serves, 99% sure it has the red in it, might even know where the pink one is... that'd be dumb... I've needed that for like 3 years on the '97... if I can't find it it's only $12...

Wondering what just balancing on tires will cost, Amazon beats others by $10 a tire without mounting and balancing included so it has to be almost $50 cheaper... I'll deal with road hazard if it comes to it... I at least carry a spare now...

 

[Roert42]

We worked on my brothers '96 yesterday. Put the gas tank in, about four times and kept having to pull it back out because we forgot to do something or had to fix something else, ect. Bolted the leaf springs up and attached the rear end to the springs.

I told him he needs to make sure he finds a way to finish putting it back together this week or else he will not be able to drive it out to Carlisle. Still has to get inspected.

 

[bobbywalter]

Well, see, it would… but I welded the plugs in both slip joints because I was using an internal spring, lol

Oh, and the center pin in the diff does have a bit of a ding…

Well ya fawked up. Just limit droop tighter...all better.

 

[bobbywalter]

Got exhaust tail pipe on.....the y pipe and muffler are getting rough though....scrounged through the scrap to get it together....looking ugly under there...but it works

Grabbed the summer doors and mirrors...

Put an air deflector on the identifies as a ranger......in an attempt to increase tunnel air flow at cruise speed...

And headed out again to the telegraph cruise ..


For some strange reason the rear tires wear excessively on these things.....

No tickets.... everything still works....but have a ghost in tps sensor.... always something.

 

[Rick W]

Got exhaust tail pipe on.....the y pipe and muffler are getting rough though....scrounged through the scrap to get it together....looking ugly under there...but it works





View attachment 95742







Grabbed the summer doors and mirrors...






View attachment 95743









Put an air deflector on the identifies as a ranger......in an attempt to increase tunnel air flow at cruise speed...





View attachment 95744





And headed out again to the telegraph cruise ..


For some strange reason the rear tires wear excessively on these things.....

No tickets.... everything still works....but have a ghost in tps sensor.... always something.

You think the Y pipe and tail pipe are getting rough? Compared to what? Tail pipe in that picture was the only thing that looks straight!

 

[Curious Hound]

You think the Y pipe and tail pipe are getting rough? Compared to what? Tail pipe in that picture was the only thing that looks straight!

If Bobby calls it rough, it’s rough.

 

[Rick W]

Got exhaust tail pipe on.....the y pipe and muffler are getting rough though....scrounged through the scrap to get it together....looking ugly under there...but it works




View attachment 95742







Grabbed the summer doors and mirrors...






View attachment 95743









Put an air deflector on the identifies as a ranger......in an attempt to increase tunnel air flow at cruise speed...





View attachment 95744





And headed out again to the telegraph cruise ..


For some strange reason the rear tires wear excessively on these things.....

No tickets.... everything still works....but have a ghost in tps sensor.... always something.

Another question: Does that door lock work? Pretty good security?

 

[Snoranger]

Another question: Does that door lock work? Pretty good security?

View attachment 95754

That’s probably hooked up to the release arm so he can remove them.

 

[RangerBilly]

No worries, good luck. This is all a cross between a hobby and therapy for me. I hope I don’t sound like a know it all, but I’ve traveled down the road for a long time, a lot of folks helped me along the way, and that’s how I offer my advice always. No hurt feelings if it doesn’t get followed!.

Thanks! I took the Wife out shopping this afternoon, so everywhere we parked, I took a peek under the hood and under the engine. No leaks, knock on wood.
I DID notice that the radiator cap seems crooked: when I pull the pressure relief lever, the coolant squirts out of the cap, NOT the overflow hose! No matter how I remove and install that cap, it still doesn't sit straight.
Any advice? Do these things actually FAIL? Do I have to buy a new cap now?

 

[Lefty]

Thanks! I took the Wife out shopping this afternoon, so everywhere we parked, I took a peek under the hood and under the engine. No leaks, knock on wood.
I DID notice that the radiator cap seems crooked: when I pull the pressure relief lever, the coolant squirts out of the cap, NOT the overflow hose! No matter how I remove and install that cap, it still doesn't sit straight.
Any advice? Do these things actually FAIL? Do I have to buy a new cap now?

Is the cap OEM?