Tractors

[Snoranger]

How hard is that to do?

It’s easier just to delete all the off topic posts.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

It’s easier just to delete all the off topic posts.

Since when do you guys crack down on thread drift?

 

[Curious Hound]

Since when do you guys crack down on thread drift?

It's pretty rare. Not sure why it was even brought up.

 

[Snoranger]

It's pretty rare. Not sure why it was even brought up.

It seemed like a “can we please get back on topic for the rest of this page” comment.

 

[racsan]

Oil has evolved a lot since the factory recommendation was out for that and most older tractors. I personally run rotella 15-40 in both my tractors and 303 hydraulic oil in the allis. Ive yet to change the hydraulic/transmission oil in the ford tractor but will probably go with a universal hydraulic fluid from tsc. Sure you can still run straight 30 in the engine, but its a bit thick when its cold out.

 

[scotts90ranger]

The being designed for ethanol fuel thing shouldn't be a huge issue, likely the only rubber component of the carb would be the float seat and if it doesn't have a copper fuel line like most had back then then the ~1' of fuel hose... like said most tractors were like 6:1 with basically unbalanced engines maxing out at like 1800rpm, it's not a high performance precise working system

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

If you can get ethanol free gas that isn't a lot more expensive than regular, yes use it as those engines back then were never introduced to ethanol fuels. As for a lead substitute no, its not needed, however it would be a good idea to add a zinc additive to your engine oil when you change it. 10w-30 would be fine year round in most cases unless you live where it gets well below zero for weeks or months on end and your tractor is sitting out in the middle of the weather.

A regular old gear oil will work for the transmission, but I'd think you'd want hydraulic fluid for the hydraulics not gear oil.

From what I understand of the transmission/hydraulic/axle is that it’s all connected because you check the fluid level in the hydraulic section for all three and the fill port is in the transmission…

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

How hard is that to do?

Not overly hard, but a bit of a pain

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Oil has evolved a lot since the factory recommendation was out for that and most older tractors. I personally run rotella 15-40 in both my tractors and 303 hydraulic oil in the allis. Ive yet to change the hydraulic/transmission oil in the ford tractor but will probably go with a universal hydraulic fluid from tsc. Sure you can still run straight 30 in the engine, but its a bit thick when its cold out.

That’s kinda what I figured. Pretty sure I can still get straight 30 but I was trying to get at is it absolutely needed to stick with that or is there a different option. I know diesel oil (15-40) is usually higher in zinc and gear oil is usually something like 80/90 weight

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

It seemed like a “can we please get back on topic for the rest of this page” comment.

That was it, I was tired of the argument when I had tractor questions

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

The being designed for ethanol fuel thing shouldn't be a huge issue, likely the only rubber component of the carb would be the float seat and if it doesn't have a copper fuel line like most had back then then the ~1' of fuel hose... like said most tractors were like 6:1 with basically unbalanced engines maxing out at like 1800rpm, it's not a high performance precise working system

Non-ethanol isn’t overly hard to get here, usually costs same as premium, but I know a lot of older engines were designed to run leaded gas or you destroy valves and stuff, so I was wondering how important each would be. I don’t know how much gas I’ll burn through with it, but non ethanol is not a huge problem as long as I don’t find myself dumping 20 gallons a week through it or something. Not sure what the gas line is for sure, but I was debating making a new one

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Straight 30 is pretty common in lawn mowers. Should be easy to get.

 

[wildbill23c]

That’s kinda what I figured. Pretty sure I can still get straight 30 but I was trying to get at is it absolutely needed to stick with that or is there a different option. I know diesel oil (15-40) is usually higher in zinc and gear oil is usually something like 80/90 weight

Straight 30 weight oil is out there, not very common to find on the oil shelves at auto parts stores, but I'm sure Tractor Supply probably or other tractor parts/accessories stores probably have it. I know its in the lawn/garden section at Tractor supply by the quart. Might be a wise choice to go with the diesel engine oil I think Shell Rotella T4? Is the diesel oil.

Gear oil is typically a 80/90 weight, but I've seen 140 occasionally as well for HD applications, which I wouldn't consider the tractor to be.

I think it would be a more important aspect if it has fluids in it period, than get too particular with what viscosity. You could go with the straight 30 weight, and see how it does then adjust from there of course. Given how old your tractor is, the 5 gallon buckets of generic hydraulic fluid should suit your needs just fine, and quite a bit cheaper than at the dealership. Not sure if your tractor has hydraulic filters but don't forget those if it has them.

 

[racsan]

I doubt that tractor has a hydraulic filter, if anything (since its based off a N series ford) it might have a screen attached to the drain plug, I know a N series engine drain plug is that way but I don’t recall about the hydraulic/transmission “main plug” Its possible you have multiple drain plugs for the back end, N-series ford has at least 2, possibly 3. Im only bringing “N-series ford” into this because harry ferguson based his tractor off of the N-series. Yes the engine is different (flathead vs ohv) but most of the rest of it is very similar to those fords from ‘39-‘51.
In case you dont know what Im referring to, heres dads ‘46 2N, bought new by his parents the year he was born. First picture was about 1977, 2nd picture was just a couple of years ago after I gave it a refresh and paint.

 

[Weasel]

I don't have a tractor. Well, maybe. I have a Ryobi electric riding lawnmower. It works only when it wants to. Sometimes the blades work, sometimes they don't and I've not yet been able to figure out why. The diagnostics tells me they should be running.

Last year, blowing out the deck (air) and it worked. This year it was notta. No sensors to cause a problem. It's the weirdest thing.

Fortunately, the dry summer meant that mowing wasn't needed often, which is good because my one push mower won't start when the engine is hot (automatic choke), another one I had to move the engine to a smaller deck. The push rechargeable one, however, hasn't had any issues. The second riding mower, an older Honda, has become a lawn decoration (The belt is a PITA to put on)

End babble.