Tractors

[wildbill23c]

A concrete contractor friend of mine has a 460 powered F-Super Duty. He said it didn't matter whether it was empty or towing heavy it always got 9mpg.

With my 88 F250 super cab long bed 4x4 with the 460 and C6, running around empty I'd get 13-14mpg, towing it was around 8-10...all that depending on what was being towed of course, the travel trailer being a brick in the wind would usually drag it down to about 8mpg. My uncle has torn that truck up so bad I wouldn't want it back as it would cost me several thousands of dollars to get it back into running order again.

I wouldn't mind another F250, a bit newer with the 460. Not really all that concerned about fuel economy, more concerned about never having to worry about not enough power LOL.

After the late 90's F150 I saw going down the highway this morning I'm thinking maybe an F150 would be just fine. Had to be around a 98 to early 00's F150 4x4 regular cab long bed, towing a flatbed trailer with a skid steer on it. I'm sure that skid steer alone weighs quite a bit more than my car trailer, tractor and implements combined....I'm just trying to future proof things. I don't want a new truck, but I have a feeling the F150 would be close to what I'd be towing in capacity anyways from what I've been finding around the internet. So the F250 makes more sense.

The trouble that I'm finding is the 5.4L V8 is the largest V8 you can get in the F250 for several years in the early to mid 2000's, well pretty much until they came out with the 6.2L V8. Looks like the 6.2L V8 came about in around the 2010 model year. Anyone running an F250 with the 6.2L V8, does it have enough power for heavier towing needs occasionally? The most I'd tow would be a loaded 7x14 dump trailer a few times a year around town. I'm guessing the 5.4L V8 wouldn't be a very wise tow rig choice for an F250, F150 maybe, but I don't think it would like the 10K+ dump trailer loads.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Dad has a 5.4 in a service body F-250, it tows pretty good.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

The tritons tow decent as long as you let them rev. Same for the 6.2.

They dont have that "kick" like a 351/460 from a dead stop though

 

[Snoranger]

The tritons tow decent as long as you let them rev. Same for the 6.2.

They dont have that "kick" like a 351/460 from a dead stop though

After driving hundreds of them, I’ll take a 6.2l any day. Sorry, but the 6.2 has more torque than a 351 across it’s entire torque curve. (I’m not biased, the 351W is one of my favorite engines to build.) The 351 was a great motor in its time… but it’s time ended 25 years ago.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

After driving hundreds of them, I’ll take a 6.2l any day. Sorry, but the 6.2 has more torque than a 351 across it’s entire torque curve. (I’m not biased, the 351W is one of my favorite engines to build.) The 351 was a great motor in its time… but it’s time ended 25 years ago.

I was more comparing the 351 to a 5.4. I just wasnt very clear. None of the newer motors have a "kick" when you first jump the throttle

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

So… should I go through this thread and separate out the entire towing argument to its own thread since it has little to do with tractors?

 

[rusty ol ranger]

So… should I go through this thread and separate out the entire towing argument to its own thread since it has little to do with tractors?

Tractors tow stuff.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Tractors tow stuff.

Yes…. But you know EXACTLY what I’m talking about…

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Yes…. But you know EXACTLY what I’m talking about…

I think its more of a 460 superiorty thread

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I think its more of a 460 superiorty thread

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

So… back to about tractors… I have a few questions about mine…

Being a 1950 with an unknown maintenance record…

Should I be running nothing but non-ethanol gas with a lead substitute? Are there other options fuel wise? (Someone suggested maybe AV-gas and there’s a local airport).

For oil the owners manual I found online says SAE-30 for engine oil above 50*, SAE-20 below 50*, and SAE-10 below 10*. I don’t really want to be changing the oil every few months if I don’t have to and would like to be able to run it in the winter if needed for moving snow. We don’t really get below 10* all that much but it’s already well below 50* at night and above during the day. So what oil should I be using and how important is it to stick to what’s recommended?

The transmission, hydraulics and axle call for “straight mineral gear oil SAE-90 for above 50* and SAE-80 below 50*.” So what exactly do I need to use in these? I suspect all the oils are low and overdue for being changed…

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Run straight 30 in the motor and 90w in the rest. Itll be fine.

Non ethanol would be a good idea, but i wouldnt sweat it to much. Same for the lead subsitute. Maybe run some through every 3 or 4 tanks.

Those things only make like 6:1 compression...id just run 87 in it.

 

[Curious Hound]

Imported Greek extra-virgin olive oil and convert it to propane.

 

[wildbill23c]

So… back to about tractors… I have a few questions about mine…

Being a 1950 with an unknown maintenance record…

Should I be running nothing but non-ethanol gas with a lead substitute? Are there other options fuel wise? (Someone suggested maybe AV-gas and there’s a local airport).

For oil the owners manual I found online says SAE-30 for engine oil above 50*, SAE-20 below 50*, and SAE-10 below 10*. I don’t really want to be changing the oil every few months if I don’t have to and would like to be able to run it in the winter if needed for moving snow. We don’t really get below 10* all that much but it’s already well below 50* at night and above during the day. So what oil should I be using and how important is it to stick to what’s recommended?

The transmission, hydraulics and axle call for “straight mineral gear oil SAE-90 for above 50* and SAE-80 below 50*.” So what exactly do I need to use in these? I suspect all the oils are low and overdue for being changed…

If you can get ethanol free gas that isn't a lot more expensive than regular, yes use it as those engines back then were never introduced to ethanol fuels. As for a lead substitute no, its not needed, however it would be a good idea to add a zinc additive to your engine oil when you change it. 10w-30 would be fine year round in most cases unless you live where it gets well below zero for weeks or months on end and your tractor is sitting out in the middle of the weather.

A regular old gear oil will work for the transmission, but I'd think you'd want hydraulic fluid for the hydraulics not gear oil.

 

[wildbill23c]

So… should I go through this thread and separate out the entire towing argument to its own thread since it has little to do with tractors?

How hard is that to do?