how to install valve lifters on 2.9l without tearing the whole thing apart

[gaz]

stamina,

1st off, I agree with Walt. I would perform a hydraulic lifter preload adjustment first.

Each part has been doing one job in one spot. If they are still servicable, because of the location specific wear, they need to go back exactly where they came from.

If you are using all new components, then disassemble the rocker arm assemblies, inspect and clean them inside and out, prior to reassembly/installation.

 

[stamina]

stamina,

1st off, I agree with Walt. I would perform a hydraulic lifter preload adjustment first.

Each part has been doing one job in one spot. If they are still servicable, because of the location specific wear, they need to go back exactly where they came from.

If you are using all new components, then disassemble the rocker arm assemblies, inspect and clean them inside and out, prior to reassembly/installation.

can you give me a little bit of info on hydraulic lifter preload adj. i and how it’s performed?

 

[stamina]

stamina,

1st off, I agree with Walt. I would perform a hydraulic lifter preload adjustment first.

Each part has been doing one job in one spot. If they are still servicable, because of the location specific wear, they need to go back exactly where they came from.

If you are using all new components, then disassemble the rocker arm assemblies, inspect and clean them inside and out, prior to reassembly/installation.

better question since it would take you years to explain lifter preload adj. , what am i looking for in terms of reusable components pushrods/rocker arm assy. , like how do i know if i should reuse them

 

[AndyB.]

Shop manuals are our friend.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

alright i’ve got the gauge installedused copper line as opposed to nylon, was a bit more time intensive but i think it’s going to be a permanent addition to the cockpit, i have some numbers for you, while driving normally without any revving rolling down the road at operating temperature: oil pressure = 40psi when i give it some throttle oil pressure pretty much maxes out at 45psi, does not go above 50, during idle at operating temperature oil pressure is 20psi, these are all numbers that i’ve just gotten from my first run after changing oil with 10w-40, motorcraft filter, and lucas HD. also when cold and warming up psi is around 40, i think this is normal though. let me know your thoughts and if you need more information i can let you know!

Those oil PSI numbers are basically spec to a Tee...

 

[gaz]

Stamina,

You ask how to replace the lifters in your 2.9L Ford 60°v6. Your question was answered immediately and it has been suggested by myself and several other to perform an inspection of your upper valve train components, before pulling your heads to swap the lifters.

If this were mine, I would,
- pull the valve covers, they probably need a good cleaning, so that will help no matter what.

Now right here you must decide whether to simply adjust the lifter preload or inspect all the parts. If you decide to adjust the preload and you have never done it before, I suggest getting help.

If you know how to adjust the preload, then I would proceed as follows:
- remove the rocker arm shafts
• perform a complete rocker arm shaft tear down. The inside is probably clogged/caked with gunk. This is also a great opportunity to improve the ability for the oil to flow. To accomplish this, the oiling holes can be drilled one size up, chamfered and debured (this should also be done to the actual oil holes on the rockers, if serviceable).
• thoroughly clean and inspect both the Rockers and Push rods for serviceability.
• reassemble the rocker arm shafts, install and set the lifter preload.

If you are uncertain how to determine if these parts are serviceable or how to adjust the lifter preload, GET HELP or take it to a reputable service center

 

[stamina]

Stamina,

You ask how to replace the lifters in your 2.9L Ford 60°v6. Your question was answered immediately and it has been suggested by myself and several other to perform an inspection of your upper valve train components, before pulling your heads to swap the lifters.

If this were mine, I would,
- pull the valve covers, they probably need a good cleaning, so that will help no matter what.

Now right here you must decide whether to simply adjust the lifter preload or inspect all the parts. If you decide to adjust the preload and you have never done it before, I suggest getting help.

If you know how to adjust the preload, then I would proceed as follows:
- remove the rocker arm shafts
• perform a complete rocker arm shaft tear down. The inside is probably clogged/caked with gunk. This is also a great opportunity to improve the ability for the oil to flow. To accomplish this, the oiling holes can be drilled one size up, chamfered and debured (this should also be done to the actual oil holes on the rockers, if serviceable).
• thoroughly clean and inspect both the Rockers and Push rods for serviceability.
• reassemble the rocker arm shafts, install and set the lifter preload.

If you are uncertain how to determine if these parts are serviceable or how to adjust the lifter preload, GET HELP or take it to a reputable service center

very appreciated info man thanks for taking the time to break this down. i’m going to get in there next weekend with my buddy and his dad who suggested a valve lash adj. before i even knew what this forum was so he should be my guy. i’ll report back if it gets fixed! the noise is hell and i can’t take it any longer.

 

[stamina]

Shop manuals are our friend.

where did this info come from? like what manual/book is this?? i have the haynes manual but it doesn’t have this type of info in such detail. would really like to get this manual!

 

[rumblecloud]

where did this info come from? like what manual/book is this?? i have the haynes manual but it doesn’t have this type of info in such detail. would really like to get this manual!

I'm guessing that's a manufacturer's shop manual. In print form you could most likely find on ebay for a couple hundred bucks. There are probably digital versions available as well.

 

[AndyB.]

If you want it, we can work something out.

 

[gaz]

Stamina,

Make sure this aquaintence understands the difference between a valve lash adjustment (required on solid lifters) and hydraulic lifter preload (Hydraulic lifters). Though they both involve the valve train being adjusted and the end result is similar these 2 procedures are 100% opposite.

 

[sgtsandman]

where did this info come from? like what manual/book is this?? i have the haynes manual but it doesn’t have this type of info in such detail. would really like to get this manual!

I was going to suggest Helms since they are generally the publisher but they stop at the year 2000. So, anything older is going to be out of print. It looks like ebay or an internet search is going to be your only route is you really want one.

 

[stamina]

If you want it, we can work something out.

Stamina,

Make sure this aquaintence understands the difference between a valve lash adjustment (required on solid lifters) and hydraulic lifter preload (Hydraulic lifters). Though the both involve the valve train being adjusted and the end result is similar these 2 procedures are 100% opposite.

to turn the motor while it’s in the truck, is it necessary i remove spark plugs to release compression? does anyone know what the size of the crank nut/crankshaft bolt is in the 2.9? also how many turns after zero lash is achieved should i go, i have read things all over the place about the preload, from .5 of a turn to what the shop manual says, 4.5 turns, massive range just would like to know if anyones done it and what they set the preload to. the answer to these questions will set me up for success to complete the j o b

 

[gaz]

Stamina,

**The Chilton's manual for the 1983-91 Ford 60°v6, 2.9L state to perform the procedure on a cold engine and to move the nut 1½ turns or 2mm past zero lash, while on the base circle.**

This is how to determine "how many complete turns past zero lash, while on the base circle".

There are 3 variables to understand/know:
1) the range of the lifter plunger = 0.100".
2) how much vertical distance the adjustment nut moves in one complete turn (360°). Once the amount of travel on the adjustment bolt for 1 complete revolution of the adjustment nut is known, then it is simple to determine how many complete turns or how much of 360° rotation is required to correctly position the nut.
3) in my experience these engines like approximately 0.035" preload (plunger movement into the lifter stroke), if done while at normal operational temperature. If the adjustment is performed on a cold engine I would have to guess, so I don't do it that way.

NOTES:
• I use red Lock-tite on the threads to help keep their position.
• I do the driver's bank 1st with engine at temp, then close that side up, rewarm the engine and then adjust the passenger side.
• everytime I've tried to make this adjustment on a cold engine I was not satisfied with the noise; so I decided to learn a different way to get it quiet, while at normal temp.
• removing the spark plugs is not required but on a cold engine, it will reduce the amount of force required to rotate the engine to position the cam.
• only rotate the crankshaft clockwise, as viewed from the front of the engine.

 

[bobbywalter]

I just grab the belts and turn the engine.