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2.9l v6 spark plug replacement


stamina

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2021
Messages
227
City
Wilmington, NC
Vehicle Year
1990
Engine
4.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
Total Lift
4” suspension
Tire Size
265/75/r16
My credo
built her in a storage unit
i am having a very hard time figuring out how to get to the passenger side plugs on this motor, they are in quite precarious positions. any and all advice and info, specifically on the passenger side plugs as mentioned, is very much appreciated
 
Your socket should have a hex on the end of it. Stick the socket on the plug and push it on till it locks around the plug, and then you have several options;

1. Use a regular wrench on the hex part of the sparkplug socket.

2. Use a short regular socket on the end of the hex of the sparkplug socket.

Those are a few of the shortest options you have for grabbing the plug. If you have a ratcheting wrench set, one of those that fits the end of the sparkplug socket works well in bad situations.
 
Some times going through the wheel well is the only option. I had to do that with my 2011. The A/C core housing is in the way going through the engine bay up top.
 
Some times going through the wheel well is the only option. I had to do that with my 2011. The A/C core housing is in the way going through the engine bay up top.
i saw that in a video of someone doing that on the 4.0, the 2.9 and 4.0 share the same block right? i think that’s what i’m going to do because there ain’t no way i can’t get past that big black box from the top
 
Keep trying. Its a bitch but it can be done "normally" I usually use a plug socket and a couple extensions. Its just about finding the right enterance point.
 
i saw that in a video of someone doing that on the 4.0, the 2.9 and 4.0 share the same block right? i think that’s what i’m going to do because there ain’t no way i can’t get past that big black box from the top

The 4.0 OHV shares the block with the 2.9. The 4.0 SOHC is a different animal but access to things in the engine bay are pretty much the same with all three.

Going through the wheel well was sooooo much better than trying to work around the box in the bay.
 
The 4.0 OHV shares the block with the 2.9. The 4.0 SOHC is a different animal but access to things in the engine bay are pretty much the same with all three.

Going through the wheel well was sooooo much better than trying to work around the box in the bay.
final question, what’s the best way of getting seized plugs out? is pb blaster the way to go or should i remove them while the block is hot? last homie didn’t use anti seize….
 
Swivels, flex head ratchet, careful selection of socket extensions, etc will get you in there pretty easily. I assume you have AC in that truck, non AC trucks have a ton of room to access all the plugs on that side. Gets tight with an AC plenum in the way but totally doable.

You could try PB blaster, it won't hurt. I don't have much faith in penetrating oils and rarely use them on anything. I've had plenty of plugs that were simply really tight, but none, ever, that were seized into an iron head. Pull hard and they should break loose.
 
Try to tighten a little first, then loosen. It’s doubtful penetrating oil will make it past the crush washer but it sure can’t hurt.

—Jazzer
 
final question, what’s the best way of getting seized plugs out? is pb blaster the way to go or should i remove them while the block is hot? last homie didn’t use anti seize….

What the others said. One blessing of having iron heads, there is less chance of galled threads.
 
Swivels, flex head ratchet, careful selection of socket extensions, etc will get you in there pretty easily. I assume you have AC in that truck, non AC trucks have a ton of room to access all the plugs on that side. Gets tight with an AC plenum in the way but totally doable.

You could try PB blaster, it won't hurt. I don't have much faith in penetrating oils and rarely use them on anything. I've had plenty of plugs that were simply really tight, but none, ever, that were seized into an iron head. Pull hard and they should break loose.
thanks so much man! the “pull hard and they should break loose” part gave me the balls to yank tf out of that breaker bar and they came instantly really appreciate y’all’s words of wisdom💪🏼💯
 
I usually did the spark plugs through the wheel well and if you have a body lift, so much the better. I have had better luck with Liquid Wrench instead of PB Blaster. Project Farm did a run down on various rust sprays, spolier alert - the hot wrench wins. I spray, run it a day, spray again, give it a short run to get it just hot enough in the morning, shut off, spray, and then remove while hot. Spark plug boots are more likely to get stuck when stone cold, so, I like to remove them when warm too.
 

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