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What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)


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You could rig up just a couple of little LEDs in the pods to illuminate them, and print out a picture of @Rick W , @sgtsandman , @85_Ranger4x4 , etc., and mount them so the LEDs come on with the key. You’d always have us with you!

just a thought

Distracted driving is illegal in NJ and how would I ever pay attention to the road?!
 
Found a 3 pod one which I think will cover more of my oopsies. Now I need to figure out 2 pointless guages lol. Trans temp is a definite but other than that... I really don't need any guages... Help me pick!

I have a tach, voltmeter, oil pressure (switch it's ford), coolant temp, what else could be practical?
Install a tachometer, but change the face of the gauge to look like a boost gauge. Then install a whistle.
 
Replaced the headlights this weekend, also the original stereo (non-functioning) with a new Kenwood and a new knob for the Climate Control - it was missing. And new speakers in the doors, with a hefty dose of sound deadening on the door panels while I was in there.
Also replaced the outside rear view mirrors. Cleaned the grill while it was off, and everything behind it. Ford doesn't make it easy! I need to find trim for the top of the windshield. No idea what happened there.
61092

61093
61094
 
Success! No leaks, noises, or inconsistencies. Oil pan gasket, rear main seal, timing cover gasket, front seal, timing chain and gears, water pump gasket, exhaust flange bolts drilled and replaced, exhaust gaskets, drilled and replaced cat bolts and gasket, trans to transfer case gasket, repair starter lead, new u joints. 3 weeks with 3 break days.
 
Success! No leaks, noises, or inconsistencies. Oil pan gasket, rear main seal, timing cover gasket, front seal, timing chain and gears, water pump gasket, exhaust flange bolts drilled and replaced, exhaust gaskets, drilled and replaced cat bolts and gasket, trans to transfer case gasket, repair starter lead, new u joints. 3 weeks with 3 break days.
And I made my own torsion bar tool
 
Well, on a semi-positive note, the oil pressure never dropped below 10 psi at idle, even at 220° EOT. It held 40 psi cruising. I'd like to see closer to 20 psi at hot idle, but at least it's exceeding the 10 psi per 1000 RPM rule. I wonder if I can get to the relief valve in the oil pump through the bottom plate on thr oil pan to shim up the spring a little.
 
I'm not sure that would do much for hot low oil pressure concerns. I would also be careful with how far you shim it... might just pop oil filters on a cold start.
 
Question: hidden kill switches:

87 4wd short short 2.9 5sp manual

97 ranger cr cab short bed 2wd 4.0 5sp manual

I want to install kill switches. On both, what wire should I cut not so I can still spin the engine, but cut the ignition fire?

I have the same question on my 1996 F250 Powerstroke diesel if anyone knows.

it’s all for security, but I’d also like to ke to be able to run up some oil in the little ones before firing, 300k plus on both of them!
 
But also like to be to be able to run up some oil in the little ones before firing, 300k plus on both of them!

Hold the gas pedal to the floor while cranking, release the pedal when you want it to start. Holding the pedal to the floor disables the fuel injectors so you can crank the engine without it firing (unless the injectors leak or your throttle cable is stretched)

And fuel pump is the easiest place to add a kill switch so the engine will crank but not start. It may start for a second then die which is actually kinda good cause a would be theif is gonna assume it stalled because it's a piece of junk and run off not sit there trying to fix it.

I still prefer my kill switches on the starter circuit. This way if you accidentally hit the kill switch while driving the truck won't shut off doing 70 on the highway...
 
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All good, but after security, my main interest is to have it spin over and fill up everything with oil before it fires. These are toys, and sometimes I don’t drive them for a month or two, and they both rattle on start up and then smooth out in a few seconds. I’m trying to avoid that instant abuse when you turn the key
 
All good, but after security, my main interest is to have it spin over and fill up everything with oil before it fires. These are toys, and sometimes I don’t drive them for a month or two, and they both rattle on start up and then smooth out in a few seconds. I’m trying to avoid that instant abuse when you turn the key
Dirtman’s suggestion above does that. If you want pressure without spinning the engine, you’ll need an electric oil pump.
 
Changed the Farkin Sparkin plugs yesterday. The old ones were three years old. Surprisingly they looked alright. Usually this old 3.0 eats the center electrodes off one side. Didn't this time. Nice. Was having a mild miss intermittently. Thought the plugs might be the cause. Still there after changing them. Found out that the EGR valve was stuck in the open position. Pried it back to closed, and disabled it for now. Will be deleting it, as I did on my Lightning three years ago, maybe next weekend. Make a quarter inch thick aluminum piece to go on the intake manifold, and use a brass garden hose cap on the exhaust manifold, fits like a glove. I'll be purchasing a tuner soon, and will be getting a tune with the EGR turned OFF in the tune.
 
There was hope you could get through a single post and not mention "Lighting".

I was really pulling for you after about the 10th sentence... lmao!
 
I had an idle problem with my 3.0, seemed to be a combination of pcv, evap solenoid, and idle air control valve. It got better as I replaced but the biggest difference came from the IAC change
 

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