Corey and Elise's 1983 V8 Ranger build - aka - Project Interceptor


For clarification you are looking for stronger than stock 31 spline axles for a 09 FX4 level 2 rear end correct?
 
For clarification you are looking for stronger than stock 31 spline axles for a 09 FX4 level 2 rear end correct?

Yes. I have the rear end off the truck at the moment, and am going to be replacing the differential, the cover, brakes, and feel like I should do bearings, c clips, and axles while I'm at it before bolting it into the truck.
Moser advertises 31 spline kits (high strength alloy shafts, c clips, bearings, and other necessary parts) for fox mustangs, crown vics, and a few others, and 28 spline kits for rangers.

I plan on bolting on a Swarr Bar to keep tubes from spinning, as well as a Chassisworks 4 link kit all at the same time.
Engine is currently putting out about 400hp, and I have plans to greatly exceed that in the next couple of years.
 
Hey man....could I get a clear pic of the dash and switch panel? I can't see most of the pics in this thread and am currently rebuilding/restoring a 1986 and dig the one angled pic I could see of the dash. A DM or texted pic would be awesome. Thanks.
 
Hey man....could I get a clear pic of the dash and switch panel? I can't see most of the pics in this thread and am currently rebuilding/restoring a 1986 and dig the one angled pic I could see of the dash. A DM or texted pic would be awesome. Thanks.


Corey and Elise's 1983 V8 Ranger build  - aka - Project Interceptor
Corey and Elise's 1983 V8 Ranger build  - aka - Project Interceptor
Corey and Elise's 1983 V8 Ranger build  - aka - Project Interceptor
Corey and Elise's 1983 V8 Ranger build  - aka - Project Interceptor
Corey and Elise's 1983 V8 Ranger build  - aka - Project Interceptor
Corey and Elise's 1983 V8 Ranger build  - aka - Project Interceptor
Corey and Elise's 1983 V8 Ranger build  - aka - Project Interceptor
 
I made the dash with 14 gauge steel, tape measurer, a jig saw, angle grinder, DeWalt cordless drill, 2 1/16" hole saw, 5" hole saw, a straight edge, a cheap harbor freight metal brake for the 2 bends, and a cheap harbor freight welder for welding little nuts onto the back of where the switch panels screw in. I measured this all off the original plastic bezel face. Cut it with a jig saw Measure 20 times, cut once. Then bend. Test fit a ton, bend a little more, bend a little more, bend a little more. Angle grind off corners as you're doing it to get it to fit in there right. Eventually when it fits I then drilled holes in the stock screw hole locations to hold it in there. Then I cut in the switch and radio locations. Then I drew out the gauge locations a bunch, eventually getting what I liked, I used hole saws and the DeWalt cordless for those. Idea being I'd break the drill before I broke my wrist. Gauges have plastic backing rings that hold them in. For the switch panels, i drilled holes where the screw holes would be, then I welded little nuts to the bank of the dash face, and use little machine screws through the switch panels to hold them on there. Works well. The radio is actually in the dash frame, and not attached to the face at all. It's actually in the stock ashtray location. Single din aftermarket radio, fit in the ashtray slot perfectly with the supplied radio mounting bracket. Took everything back out, cleaned up all the edges, painted it with Rust-Oleum semigloss black for easy wipe downs and cleaning.
 

Sponsored Ad

TRS Events & Gatherings

Featured Rangers

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

TRS Latest Video

Official TRS Merchandise

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Ranger Sponsors


Product Suggestions

Back
Top