Another MPG project (will update regularly.)

[cabletech]

i've been checking my mpg. I've gone through three tanks since my last post, consistenly 15.7 +- .05. I'm changing my plugs and wires today. ngk IX iridium and Bosch 8mm wires. I gap with feeler guage. and also anti-seize and boot grease. Will post pictures and or description of condition of plugs and ohm of wires. this way we can determine if the difference(if any) is in the replacement of bad parts or the use of upgrade parts. BTW chaeck out that you tube video of iridium vs. standard plugs on display at some trade show. big difference.

 

[shadetree]

The plugs should come pre-gapped. Never gap plugs with a feeler gauge, it gives an incorrect reading. Use a wire gapping gauge, something less than a buck at autoparts. shady

 

[Hahnsb2]

You're avoiding the BIG MAJOR mpg increaser: swapping out that automatic waste-heat generator for a manual tranny. That will beat ALL of your other items COMBINED, and many of those items have downsides, including wasted $$. Many on this board have done the auto==>manual swap-ola... apparently all the holes are already in the truck.

Grind your own coffee and your own gears, and you'll be happier and get WAY better MPG.

(My 4x4 w/ stick gets 25 hwy @70mph with a couple hundred pounds tucked under the 65 lb. decklid!!)

Ding ding ding! Winner

 

[cabletech]

Shadetree, plugs never come pre-gapped. they all have to be gapped to fit your particular application. Also, feeler gauges are very accurate if used properly.

Well, the new plugs and wires are in. Here's the low down:

I measured resistance on the three longest wires of the old set and the new. with the multimeter set at 200 i got 10.2, 10.0 and 14 for the old set. The new set measured 1.5, 1.5 and 2.2.

The plugs are only slightly worn. they are not black, they are tan...good. the center electrode is only slightly domed. and the prong is very clean only slightly tan with very tiny amounts of deposits.

I'm not sure what the resistance should be on the factory wires but when I see an 85% reduction in resistance I think that is significant. It may not be though. the factory wires may be in spec. If they are then this is a valid test of the new wires. if they are not then that will be a variable to contend with.

The plugs are a going to be a valid test. the old plugs were not worn at all. if there is an improvement then it's safe to say they work.


I haven't had the chance to road test it yet. I'll top off and start working Monday. I will post the mpg results of my next few tanks. I have however revved it up and I can see a difference. It is more responsive, the idle is about the same, not appreciable difference there but going from idle to rev limiter is quicker. we'll see how often it downshifts on the highway in O/D.

BTW I tried to leave O/D off on the highway but I just can't bear to drive 75MPH at 3400 RPM it seems retarded. O/D on I'm at about 2800 RPM. give or take.

'Till next time,

Cabletech

 

[cabletech]

oh yeah shadetree. that quote sounds like something Micheal Savage would say. Is that correct?

 

[cabletech]

here are some pictures of the truck and those plugs

 

[Bob Ayers]

The only plugs that I'm aware of that you can't set the gap on are the Bosch +4 platinums, and +2 platinums. But neither of these plugs should be used with Ford's EDIS.

 

[rickcdewitt]

BTW I tried to leave O/D off on the highway but I just can't bear to drive 75MPH at 3400 RPM it seems retarded.
Cabletech

another huge factor you are ignoring.drive below 70 at all times and hang around 65,and forget overdrive to get your truck up to the bottom side of 20mpg.piss people off behind you while accelerating,theres no need to get max acceleration every time.

i'm not talking hypermiler,i want to run those bastards off the road when dealing with them.

 

[shadetree]

Shadetree, plugs never come pre-gapped. they all have to be gapped to fit your particular application.

As I said, many do. Here is one:

http://www.frsport.com/_c_61.html

However, I always check the gaps as they may have been changed in handling.

Also, feeler gauges are very accurate if used properly.

The problem with feeler gauges is the end of the ground electrode is not cut even during mfgr, it has a small curve to it. A wire feeler gauge will not measure this curve. shady

oh yeah shadetree. that quote sounds like something Micheal Savage would say. Is that correct?

Nope. No cigar. shady

 

[Bob Ayers]

The problem with feeler gauges is the end of the ground electrode is not cut even during mfgr, it has a small curve to it. A wire feeler gauge will not measure this curve. shady

WRONG AGAIN! Even with a curvature in the ground electrode, the feeler gauge will still measure the MINIMUM distance between the ground electrode, and the center electrode! The MINIMUM distance is important, NOT the MAXIMUM
distance of the curvature to center electrode!!!

 

[shadetree]

WRONG AGAIN! Even with a curvature in the ground electrode, the feeler gauge will still measure the MINIMUM distance between the ground electrode, and the center electrode! The MINIMUM distance is important, NOT the MAXIMUM
distance of the curvature to center electrode!!!

Geezzee! It never fucking ends. The curve of the ground electrode in most cases is arced downwards toward the plug. When you slide a feeler gauge in the gap, the arc will be above the gauge and the end result is the gap will be wider than required. A wire gapping tool is not effected by this curvature.

If the electrode was curved in an upward fashion, the minimum distance between it and the center electrode could be set. shady

 

[Bob Ayers]

Geezzee! It never fucking ends. The curve of the ground electrode in most cases is arced downwards toward the plug. When you slide a feeler gauge in the gap, the arc will be above the gauge and the end result is the gap will be wider than required. A wire gapping tool is not effected by this curvature.

If the electrode was curved in an upward fashion, the minimum distance between it and the center electrode could be set. shady

Sorry Shady, in both cases, the MINIMUM distance will be set!!! I see you are also showing your limited vocabulary!!!

 

[shadetree]

Sorry Shady, in both cases, the MINIMUM distance will be set!!! I see you are also showing your limited vocabulary!!!

Not true. However, maximum/minimum have nothing to do with it. The gap is set at whatever the specification calls for. You haven't gapped many plugs with a feeler gauge, have you?

Personal attacks really enhance your position, and add credence to your statements. shady

 

[JohnnyU]

If you two cannot get along with each other, please ignore each other. If you can't grow up and learn how to deal with people that you disagree with, you will be forcefully 'matured' and find yourselves both sitting through a 3+ day suspension.

Quit the arguing before one of us ends it for both of you.

 

[AllanD]

I'm looking at doing some upgrades to my work truck for MPG boosts/pulling power/longevity/reliability improvements also.

My issue is weight. I have an extended cab four door with a 80 lbs shell, 100 lbs of ladders, 50 lbs of tools, 60 lbs of equipment, 200 lbs of cable, and 60 lbs of fittings and such. for a total of 550 lbs of added weight. say 600 to be conservative.

I put about 120 miles per day or more on this truck. and on the highway I see the downshifting that many people have mentioned here. I do turn the O/D off on the hilly part of the highway but as some have said it feels like the engine is racing. I thought that was never a good thing. so I turn it on for flat ground and city driving, of which I do a lot.

On my best tank I got 16.02 MPG! Something's gotta give! I am stuck with this truck for a few years or so, so I want to make the most of it before looking into the 4.3 or something that can pull without killing the MPG like this.

Ok, the first question I ask when someone has mileage issues is do you know what gear ratio you have?

Often the 2wd Rangers are saddled with 3.27, 3.45 or 3.55 gears and both the 3.0 & 4.0SOHC simply do not get good mileage with them. even with the possibility of 3.73's the larger tires (typically 225/70's) on the later trucks the gearins is less than optimum.

You'd think taller gears would automatically get better mileage but we have proved many times that this isn't true.

Engine LOAD is invariably more important than Engine RPM under cruise conditions. and frankly the both the 3.0vulcan ans 4.0SOHC likes to spin.

So what gears do you have?

And what size tires do you run?

To be honest with you when I see ANYTHING other than 4.10's
behind a 3.0 I see a factory Screw-up.

Because unless you live in the flatlands of Kansas or Oklahoma or
the flat midwest anything else is simply too tall to let the 3.0 do it's job.

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