85 2.3 hard to start cold and random miss

[Rangerfireman383]

Guys, my truck has always had a random intermittent issue of cutting out. I recently decided that I had enough, after it got to where it wouldn't stay running if I cranked it up to let it warm up in the morning. Initially, I ran a koer and koeo test which gave me several codes ranging from bad pip sensor to bad ect sensor, to bad iat sensor. I have replaced the iac control valve, ect sensor, iat sensor, complete distributor, and lift pump assembly in the tank(fuel gauge was acting crazy too). I also went through and cleaned all grounds, and took the computer apart and checked for any obvious signs of issues and found nothing. I suspected that it may have low fuel pressure, but it immediately goes to 30lbs on start. Fuel pressure regulator is good. It takes an extended period of time to get it to start when cold, and once it does, it surges and cuts off several times before I can get it to stay running. It also cuts out randomly while driving, and I have also noticed that if I am running the headlights, and switch the heat on, it will stumble and sometimes cut off. I am getting pretty frustrated with it and am hoping someone can help me figure it out. I am thinking now that it may be a wiring issue somewhere. Sorry for the long post, but I'm trying to not leave any details out. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[tomw]

I have one. Bought new, so I know who's done what...
I had to replace the true ignition switch as it was falling apart. It is a 'slide-type' switch, with a rod connecting it to the ignition lock cylinder. It is held on with two 'theft proof' snap-off bolts. The heads used to tighten the bolts snap off, leaving a thief with little to grab onto to replace the switch. Makes no sense to me, but that's how it is.
I used a file to make a flat on opposite sides of the tapered 'washer' left. Then used vice-grip to grab the flats to loosen the bolts. Used standard bolts to replace.
In mine, the switch was coming apart, and it would just stop running unless held in the exact 'run' spot. I tried one time to re-crimp and hold the switch together, but it too started to get flaky. A new switch was readily and cheaply available.
If that is not the problem, you have an electrical problem. The starter relay on the passenger fender inside, under the plastic cover, has multiple fusible links for all the 'loads' on the vehicle. They ALL get to fit under the + wire on the relay, closest physically and directly wired to the + post. They sometimes get loose or wiggle out of position, or get corroded, leading to intermittent operation.
I would remove the plastic cover near the battery & air filter box(EFI only?), and try to wiggle the mutiplicity of wires that are glommed onto the relay terminal that has the battery wire attached(big terminal). The other large terminal goes directly to the starter. If the wires wiggle, take it all apart(disconnect the battery unless you like sparks) and clean stuff up, re-stack the connectors, getting the insulation fanned to allow them to stack neatly, and re-tighten the nut.
Hopefully one of these problem solutions will make things work again. Last thought is to check the battery terminals, as a loose terminal may cut amperage such that weird things happen, such as the radio turning off, the wipers stopping in mid-stroke, and finally, the engine starting to run funny, lose power, and so on. Had that happen, at zero-dark-thirty, on a two-lane, raining. Then the drivers side wiper quit moving! Not fun.
tom

 

[Rangerfireman383]

I have one. Bought new, so I know who's done what...
I had to replace the true ignition switch as it was falling apart. It is a 'slide-type' switch, with a rod connecting it to the ignition lock cylinder. It is held on with two 'theft proof' snap-off bolts. The heads used to tighten the bolts snap off, leaving a thief with little to grab onto to replace the switch. Makes no sense to me, but that's how it is.
I used a file to make a flat on opposite sides of the tapered 'washer' left. Then used vice-grip to grab the flats to loosen the bolts. Used standard bolts to replace.
In mine, the switch was coming apart, and it would just stop running unless held in the exact 'run' spot. I tried one time to re-crimp and hold the switch together, but it too started to get flaky. A new switch was readily and cheaply available.
If that is not the problem, you have an electrical problem. The starter relay on the passenger fender inside, under the plastic cover, has multiple fusible links for all the 'loads' on the vehicle. They ALL get to fit under the + wire on the relay, closest physically and directly wired to the + post. They sometimes get loose or wiggle out of position, or get corroded, leading to intermittent operation.
I would remove the plastic cover near the battery & air filter box(EFI only?), and try to wiggle the mutiplicity of wires that are glommed onto the relay terminal that has the battery wire attached(big terminal). The other large terminal goes directly to the starter. If the wires wiggle, take it all apart(disconnect the battery unless you like sparks) and clean stuff up, re-stack the connectors, getting the insulation fanned to allow them to stack neatly, and re-tighten the nut.
Hopefully one of these problem solutions will make things work again. Last thought is to check the battery terminals, as a loose terminal may cut amperage such that weird things happen, such as the radio turning off, the wipers stopping in mid-stroke, and finally, the engine starting to run funny, lose power, and so on. Had that happen, at zero-dark-thirty, on a two-lane, raining. Then the drivers side wiper quit moving! Not fun.
tom

Thanks for the reply tom. Yea, I've checked all the fusable links, and cleaned the contacts on battery cables. I even went as far as to find all grounds and clean them ensuring the circuits were grounding correctly. I did however find that the main feed wire coming off the alternator going to the inside fuse panel was melted in 1 spot and corroded. I spliced it back together, but have noticed that it is warm to the touch after the truck has been running with an electrical load on the system. I think I may have some time tomorrow to pull the fuse panel and check to see if any other wires are having issues. I'm now thinking that maybe there is a short in the power feed to the fuse panel that is causing the supply wire to overheat, or even the alternator/ voltage regulator may have an issue going on. I've had a lot of vehicles over the years, and built several but I think this issue with my ranger has driven me nuts more so than anything. I will check the ignition switch, ( although I have tried moving the key slightly trying to duplicate the issue, as well as tracing all wires in the truck and wiggling them) with no success in making it duplicate the issue. I guess I'll just have to spend another full day chasing a ghost lol.

 

[tomw]

"Warm" is relative. If the temperature gets to where the insulation has melted or is melting, that's too hot. It will take a few minutes to remove the steering column cover(three screws from below), and take a gander at the ignition switch. Mine had a tension on the bundle of wires that are connected to the side of the switch. I tried moving the harness to relieve the 'pull' but there was no slack I could develop, so I just replaced the switch & put it back together. It took 30 years to wreck the switch, so I figure it should last longer than me, so I didn't pursue more 'slack'. It was obvious by inspection that the switch was coming apart. There was a visible gap where the pot metal of the switch housing had let go of the wire socket held in place by several 'crimps' on the edge of the pot metal housing. Just would not hold any more.
Beyond that, check for a BK/OR, black with orange stripe, wire that is the alternator output feed. Depending, it can traipse from the alternator, and be spliced in to feed accessories, and go across the radiator support to feed the battery via the connector on the relay where all the fusible links are attached. There IS a splice that can go bad over time. S108 near the alternator power takeoff(B) connection, goes to the alternator output and to the battery via the relay connection. If you lose this, you'll be running on the battery every time it loses connection, or reduced alternator & battery, if it is a crummy splice(corrosion, split wires, broken by flexing too much, etc).
I'd check the BK/OR wire.
tom