Help remote started screwed my truck

[Fraser1989]

Hey,
So here is the story I think future shop effed my truck. I got a remote install and they did it 3 times because of some error where it would only work for a few days. Then I have brought it back 3 more times because my key fobs unpaired with the system. Last night they put in a new system and I drove home parked my car and it won't start.

I turn the Key forward and it clicks once then nothing. I disconnected the battery for 20min hoping that would reset whatever is causing this but no luck.

My truck works fine minus this issue do you think it is a result of there work?

 

[cvar]

The remote start is a like a simple computerized switch. Your remote sends a radio signal to a black-box, so the black-box sends out voltage onto some thin wires, meant to mimic "start" and "run" ignition key outputs (except on a tiny scale). The installer's job is to add the standard relays that convert the tiny output signals into much stronger signals like your ignition switch does in the "start" and "run" positions. Those relays are not affected by disconnecting a battery.

A relay is a simple gadget. It takes a small electrical on/off control signal to turn ON/OFF a high-capacity switch. It switches power ON/OFF to some larger capacity wires needed by your truck. In this case, to start & run.

Typically, you need one relay per power circuit normally activated by your ignition switch in the "start" position and the "run" position. The relays provide (alternative) power to those (high-capacity) circuits instead of the ignition switch, essentially bypassing the ignition switch. For example, 1 relay sends power to your "run" circuit, a 2nd relay to your "accessory" (heat & A/C) circuit, and a 3rd relay to your "starter motor" circuit. Power comes from your fuses, same as before, except the relays provide an alternate path for routing that power to those existing circuits.

Let's assume your brand new remote start black-box is working fine. You need to ensure that your new relays are hooked up correctly (so easy to screw up, cuz so many connections). Do they power up all of the correct circuits? Whatever your ignition switch does. All of your new relays should be in new sockets, so you can pull them out to change them. Pulling out all of the new relays should defeat the system.

One exception is an optional starter defeat relay. Does yours have this feature? That relay is for theft-prevention, and it prevents sending power to your starter unless it's activated by the remote start or the key switch. Perhaps that relay is bad, or improperly installed?

 

[Fraser1989]

My truck is a 96 so I doubt it has much for an anti theft.

Could a bad relay keep me from manually starting the truck with the key.
I imagine there is probably a bad relay as the remote starter has never worked properly.

 

[cvar]

Anti-theft (starter defeat) is a feature provided by the new remote-start device. Even if it was never in the original vehicle. It's just 1 more relay to add.

Yes, a bad relay could indeed be your problem. Easy to pop a relay & swap with another from someplace else. Your truck has lots of 'em, all alike.

Hmm. It could also be your safety override switches: usually a brake pedal switch and also a hood switch. For safety reasons, (a) if your foot is on the brake or else (b) the hood is open, then the car won't start via remote. Also if it had been remote started, then those 2 safety switches should shut off engine, for safety. So first thing is to check those 2 switches are working properly. Did Future Shop choose a good placement for the hood switch, so it's properly pushed only when the hood is closed? Then check the relay outputs (voltmeter). Check the black-box outputs (voltmeter).

Could also be that using a quick-splice (clip-on) electrical connector has accidentally severed the wires inside the insulation, making your normal original ignition keyed wire connections flakey?

I'll presume they took relay POWER from the correct circuits at fuse panel, not just from radio hot wires (would be stupid).

Sorry man, you got lots (2 doz.) of connections to re-check. They DID give you the install manual, right? Good luck.

Does yours have a "valet" switch that lets you disable the whole remote starter? Does truck work manually in valet mode?

 

[doorgunner]

So.....you let THEM install it......tell THEM to remove it and give you a refund because it does not work properly.....you have given them plenty of chances to get it right!

Aftermarket remote-start units are great ONLY when they work correctly!

My daughter's aftermarket unit worked great for a year...then her 2011 SUV engine cut off at 60 mph in traffic....we removed the fuse to the remote unit & the vehicle has had no problems for nearly 2 years...

my remote start unit has worked fine in my '89 for 3 years......

 

[pillen140]

I agree with doorgunner. I put one in my old explorer, lasted 8 months before all it would do is buzz. If you have to have one... the extra money spent is worth it. Have them take it out, and makw sure they havent already messed up your wiring harness.

 

[hoosier1104]

Remember one thing, you get what you pay for. I read the thread and there was no mention of the manufacturer of the remote start. It is better to spend the money on a proven manufacturer than something cheap.

Sent from somewhere in Indiana while trying to avoid work using Tapatalk 2.

 

[shane96ranger]

Confucius say:

you let THEM install it......tell THEM to remove it

 

[doorgunner]

Confucius say:

Confuseious say: "....you let THEM install it....tell THEM to remove it...."