Time to replace ALL brake lines, best SOURCES?

[fixizin]

My trusty Ranger rolled off the Twin Cities line 14 years ago this month!

Though only 46,000 mi. on the odo, components are AGEING anyway (sub-tropical humidity + coastal salt spray).

Recently did the rear brakes (both cylinders leaking), all went well, but noticed the steel hard lines are rusting badly--ROUGH thick rust. I've been told the rubber flex lines are likely decomposing from the inside as well, and dark color of brake fluid lends to that assumption.

ANYWAY, makes no sense to do this piecemeal (bleed/flush ONCE, eh?), so it's STEM-TO-STERN time, replace ALL lines, master-cylinder-all-4-terminations.

Just wondering the best way to go, i.e. pre-bent vs. bend and flare yourself, and SOURCES for all the flex lines.

THANKS IN ADVANCE!

 

[Tedybear]

Buy Bulk.

I've done it several times. Bulk rolled line and a bag full of ends. And while I'm at it? OTC makes a double flare tool called "Stinger". It runs about $25 bucks or so. This is a good flare tool to have. Unlike the dirt cheap models found at Advance, harbor, etc.. It's done many double flares and hasn't stripped out the knurls to hold the lines. Still looks like brand new. The cheap ones? 2-3 flares and the knurls are flattened out and don't hold for squat.

S-

PS: Rock Auto for all the hoses. They normally have quick shipping and are very well priced. As for the lines? I'd recommend NAPA and the lines with the 'green' anti-rust coating. (Yeah I know they still rust...but it lasts a lot longer then untreated)

 

[Teddyzee]

I don't know a source for pre-bent lines, but I would recommend doing it yourself.
Plus, you could use either coated or stainless tubing.

 

[Mazda]

Just a thought has anyone tried to "Rino-Line" there brake lines. Maybe this will prevent them from rusting out. Don't know as I live in Southern California and don't have the Snow,Salt,Etc problems.

 

[Mark_88]

I like your hood hornyment...er, ornament...

I'd buy the parts and do it as suggested...just doing my rear cylinder after only a couple of years of wear on it but since you mentioned the bleeding and all that I might do both rears...

What are you using for the bleeding kit? I've tried that one-man bleed kit and it worked out really well...bled both my Ranger and Zuki with it and only had to pump the pedal a couple of times to get it going...so I'd recommend that if you don't have one already...

 

[upnsmoke]

The one man bleeder deal has worked great for me as well. A local store around here (Salvo's) has brake lines pre flared with fittings of various common sizes installed, made to various lengths. They are straight when you buy them, and intended to be bent by the buyer, which is easy enough. I just bend them around an aerosol can lid or something. The prices are a little high, but the convenience can be worth it when you are pressed for time. Next time I do the lines on my Ranger, I will to use stainless tubing, just because I plan to keep the truck with the current brake setup a while.

 

[cajunengineering]

With corrosion being such a factor I would go with stainless tubing and never worry again. Now a word of advice, if you do use stainless be sure when flaring to use a 37 degree single flare, 45 double flare will not work with stainless and will leak. You can get a 20' roll of 3/16" stainless tubing from Summit for $30 plus the fittings you need. I second rockauto.com, also Inline Tube has a wide selection of tubing, fittings, hoses, and tools.

 

[fixizin]

Thanks for all the replies.

RE: hard lines, I see no one's a fan of the Ni-Cu (nickel-copper) alloy tubing???

Stainless might be beyond my very ltd. abilities... here's my latest half-baked i-dea-r: regular steel line, coated in TOOL-DIP rubber (pick a color)!


PS: Which of the legendary one-man bleeder tools are we talking about?

When ever I try to get my gearhead bros to chip in, they're like "what, we're not family?... you're not gonna help me any more? You don't like my beer?..." (where's the 'guilt trip' smiley?)

 

[fixizin]

TedyBear: if you mean the OTC Stinger 4503, that looks like an excellent price/quality point for a DIYer, so thanks... do you know if it can also be used on plumbing/HVAC/icemaker lines, etc.??

I like your hood hornyment...er, ornament...

Nobody ever notices the uber-cool Saleen "nostril" hood scoops... only the lady I rescued from smoky late-night employment, and who is now getting plenty of fresh air and sunshine.

...just doing my rear cylinder after only a couple of years of wear on it but since you mentioned the bleeding and all that I might do both rears...

Yeah, though I had no choice, I'd still do BOTH rears--they're the same age, lol. Plus the great spring kit I got (from Advanced) had both sides in it anyway. Shoes and cylinders are cheap, your time (and hassle) is not. Just make dang sure whether you've got the 9" or the 10" drums, cuz most databases guess wrong.

 

[Tedybear]

A flare is a flare is a flare. A flare by any other tool is still a 'flare'.

Okay, that didn't quite make any sense. The Stinger Kit. (shop around, Autozone ordered in it for me and it was a lot cheaper then NAPA). That kit is the exact same type kit as the one offered by most auto parts houses---except it holds up a lot better. It does single and double flares at the angle used by brake systems. I'm not sure about the flares used in other applications? (such as cooler lines for plumbing and HVAC. In the past when I worked for chuck e's as a tech, our ice maker used compression fittings....so I can't help ya that way)

I figure if you are willing to spend $15-$20 bucks on the house brand double flare kit--lifetime warranty--But you'll wind up driving back several times to exchange it....So spend the extra $5-$10 bucks, get a decent one with a lifetime warranty---and save the gas money for the drive to the auto parts house---several trips....

Good Luck with it! The bulk green coating line works well. If you are concerned about the nicks and scratches that knocks some of it off the line? Spray it down with rust'o paint. It will keep the rust at bay for a while. I'd not recommend 'tool dip'. Once the coating starts to wear out? Road salt and other crud can work its way between the coating and the steel line. You'd really have to monitor it and patch it up when needed.


S-

 

[Mark_88]

Nobody ever notices the uber-cool Saleen "nostril" hood scoops... only the lady I rescued from smoky late-night employment, and who is now getting plenty of fresh air and sunshine.

LOL...I did see something yellow in the background with nostrils, but I thought it was maybe a boat considering her apparel...

Yeah, though I had no choice, I'd still do BOTH rears--they're the same age, lol. Plus the great spring kit I got (from Advanced) had both sides in it anyway. Shoes and cylinders are cheap, your time (and hassle) is not. Just make dang sure whether you've got the 9" or the 10" drums, cuz most databases guess wrong.

Funny, because I thought I had 10" brakes on the rear...but when I went to Canadian Tire I couldn't remember...then I remembered that I had put the Aerostar drums on and asked him to cross reference that...it came up that those finned drums are 9" only...they do not come in 10"...so I ordered a 9" cylinder...

Then I went to another shop (closer to my home) and they sold the same cylinder for less than half the price CTC charged ($30 with taxes as opposed to $14)...so I returned the one to CTC and ordered the other one...still have to order the other one

And I also ordered another 3/16" plug for the T connector in case this happens again and I need a quick fix...that goes in my tool box for roadside fixes...

 

[fixizin]

... The bulk green coating line works well. If you are concerned about the nicks and scratches that knocks some of it off the line? Spray it down with rust'o paint. It will keep the rust at bay for a while. I'd not recommend 'tool dip'. Once the coating starts to wear out? Road salt and other crud can work its way between the coating and the steel line. You'd really have to monitor it and patch it up when needed.

Themz izz good points... my half-baked ideas seldom survive real life, lol.

OTOH, my OEM bare steel lines have lasted 14 years, so just about any flavor of Rust-Oleum is going to extend that.

 

[fixizin]

And I also ordered another 3/16" plug for the T connector in case this happens again and I need a quick fix...that goes in my tool box for roadside fixes...

Belt + suspenders, I like it. Will add a plug or two to my upcoming fittings purchase. Might save a tow and a lost day and $$...

Yeah, $14/cylinder sounds more like it... I wonder if those CTC hosers priced it per AXLE, then pocketed one on you.

I paid $15 per, no core charge; they DID want the brake shoes back--easy to reline those.

Unlike some cases posted here, my rear brakes definitely had been doing some work, i.e. noticeable ridge in drums. Did NOT have them lathe-turned, just degreased and slapped back together, fingers crossed. Two weeks later, no proble... AHHHH!

 

[cvar]

I used a 25 foot roll of nickel-copper alloy from Autozone. I like it. It's easy to work with, and won't rust. Photos are at http://imgur.com/a/sUnMy

http://www.austinhealeywood.com/brakestory.html

http://www.dimebank.com/BrakePlumbing.html

 

[fixizin]

cvar, OUTSTANDING write-up and pics!

SO... is there only 3 flex/rubber lines total? One to each front wheel, and one from frame to rear splitter?

Gotta slide my big piece o' cardboard under there Thurs. and scout it all out.

MIXED SAE and metric in one line... lawdy, I feel some powerful cursin' comin' own!